introduction
WRITING HONEY & OATS has been a very gratifying and heartening experience. More than any other book I have written, it is truly the culmination of ideas and energy from friends, family, neighbors, and associates. I had written my previous books quite privately, but Honey & Oats allowed me to share the creative process. It is astonishing to me how many old and new friends jumped at the opportunity to share immensely valuable insights while testing this collection of recipes.
The seed for this book was actually planted many years ago in a phone call from my wise and savvy editor Susan Roxborough. In our conversation, Susan put forward the idea of a whole-grain baking book that uses wholesome sweeteners. She explained how she loves baking for her daughter and finds it disheartening to follow a recipe only to realize it calls for an exorbitant amount of refined sugar. As I pondered this, I envisioned amber maple syrup, golden honey, earthy brown coconut-palm crystals, and tan Sucanat. I saw my kitchen counter piled high with mounds of soft, whole-grain flours in varying hues. I realized that many of our ancient grains have become more available, and awareness of them is on the rise. I found myself deeply interested in exploring traditional favorites and altering these inspiring desserts, pastries, and breads to replace white sugar and flour with unrefined natural sweeteners and whole-grain flours that are full of nutrition and often more easily digested.
So the Honey & Oats research began. As I embarked on these recipes, I found that the process was very different from my other books, where I developed new gluten-free and vegan baked goods from start to finish. For this book, I feel more like a seamstress altering a dress, finding just the right whole-grain flour and sweetener to substitute in a recipe and carefully adjusting the ratios of ingredients. In the hopes of enticing a wide audience to engage in the nurturing art of baking, I tried to include recipes that were not only beloved, but also approachable and straightforward.
My affinity for baking began in childhood. I grew up as somewhat of a baking apprentice, making black bread, bran muffins, and pancakes with my dad, and popovers, clairs, French breads, kuchen, cookies, pies, and cakes with my mom and grandmother. As I became a young woman, I grew more and more keen to try out new ways of healthy baking, always finding it more exciting to improve a recipe than to follow one. So writing Honey & Oats in many ways feels nostalgic. The recipes are ones that have been with us for generations, taking me back to my baking roots.
For those who prefer a lighter baked good or who are just wading into the world of whole-grain flours, the recipes in this book provide the option to substitute half of the whole-grain flour with all-purpose flour to create a lighter version that still retains flavor and complexity. For baked goods made with teff or buckwheat flour, which are gluten-free, there is an option to include tapioca flour to create a lighter texture.
About the
ingredients
FLOURS AND GRAIN
Please store all of your whole-grain flours in resealable plastic bags in the freezer or refrigerator to ensure they stay fresh.
oats
Oats impart a chewy bite, adding texture to breads and batters. Their mild, creamy, slightly sweet flavor is also neutral enough to provide a wonderful backdrop for more assertive flavors such as fruit and chocolate.
You should check to ensure that the oats you purchase are whole grain, as some oats marketed as old-fashioned have had the bran removed and therefore do not offer the same level of nutrition. Though oats are naturally gluten-free, most packaged oats contain trace amounts of gluten as the result of being ground in mills that also grind grains containing gluten. However, gluten-free oats are now widely available from trusted sources such as Bobs Red Mill.
einkorn
The most ancient of all cultivated grains, einkorn is rich in both flavor and nutrients, making it an increasingly popular whole grain. This creamy pale-yellow grain is milled into a fine flour that yields a desirable smooth texture and a robust flavor that is slightly sweet and nutty.
An attractively simple plant, einkorn is the least complex of all of the varieties of wheat and has the lowest gluten content. Einkorn, like most plants, contains only two sets of chromosomes. Later variations of wheat became much more genetically complex through cross-breeding. Einkorn means one grain in German and as its name suggests, it has only one grain per husk. Its grains are small and have thick, tough husks which makes threshing (the removal of the inedible husks) more difficult.
The domestication of wild einkorn in the Fertile Crescent of Mesopotamia more than 12,000 years ago facilitated the shift from hunter-gather societies to agricultural communities. Einkorn use spread throughout the Middle East and Central Europe, even making its way as far south as Egypt. Significant evidence of einkorn cultivation has been found in many archaeological sites.
Einkorn use declined around 3,000 years ago when newer forms of wheat became favored for their higher yield, higher gluten content (leavened breads rise better when a higher gluten flour is used), and ease of threshing. Those very same qualities that caused einkorn to fall out of favor make it an excellent choice for farmers today. Unlike its modern counterparts, einkorns thick husk makes it more resistant to disease and it has a deep root system making it easier to grow in natural soil using organic methods. Low levels of gluten and excellent digestibility make it a promising option for many with gluten sensitivities. Einkorn can still be found growing wild in some parts of Turkey and is currently being cultivated on a small scale in parts of Europe, the Middle East, and most recently, the United States.
The rich flavor and exceptional nutritional value of einkorn make it an obvious choice for anyone looking to create delicious, healthful baked goods. It contains high levels of vitamin A, beta-carotene, lutein (a powerful antioxidant), and riboflavin. It also has twice the protein of modern wheat and has been shown to retain more antioxidants and nutrients after processing and baking.