Nuala Cullen - Irish soups & breads

Irish Soups
& Breads

Nuala Cullen

Gill & Macmillan

Contents

Soups

Introduction

Since man first learned to boil his meat in troughs heated by hot stones, soupor brothhas been part of the diet. It has served many functions in different societies and at different times, from a breakfast drink to a standing pottage, but in our society it did not take its present place as an introduction to the meal until the eighteenth century.

In the nineteenth century, soup in Ireland even developed political connotations. Catholics who were starving during the terrible famine years of the 1840s, and who changed their religion in exchange for sustenance from Protestant societies, were called soupers. But perhaps the most famous soup of that unhappy period was created by Alexis Soyer, the philanthropic and inventive chef de cuisine of the Reform Club in London.

Soyer set up his soup kitchen, equipped with his specially invented stove and excellent but controversial recipe, on the parade ground of the Royal Barracks in Dublin, now the National Museum, and in the period between 6 April and 14 August 1847, 1,147,279 rations were distributed to the needy, an average of 8,750 daily. The famous chef returned to the Reform Club with his reputation much enhanced and a beautiful memento in the shape of a silver snuff box presented to him at a dinner given in his honour in Dublin.

While in Dublin Soyer, in response to requests, published a booklet entitled, The Poor Mans Regenerator, containing economical recipes for soups and stews, in which he implored people to use the outsides of vegetables instead of throwing them away. In this he was, as in many other things relating to nutrition, in advance of his time.

Happily today we can take a more relaxed view of soup, eating it for pleasure rather than mere survival. Though many of the recipes included here are from a traditional background, they have been updated to eliminate the hours of cooking once considered necessary, even for lettuce and pea soups, and reflect a lighter, fresher and healthier approach to soup-making.

Soup is infinitely versatile and suited to every occasion, from the warming winter family lunch to a summer evening dinner party, and the selection of recipes which follows will, I hope, be enjoyed.

The quantities given in each recipe are for six, unless otherwise stated.

Stocks

Good stocks are the foundation of good soup and should be carefully prepared with ingredients which are absolutely fresh and chosen with care.

It is not a good idea to put leftovers of all descriptions into the stockpot, leaving it to boil for hoursthis simply produces a cloudy liquid with a tired and indeterminate flavour. Instead, choose the required ingredients especially for each stock and dont cook for longer than necessary.

It is unrealistic to expect that the necessary stocks will always be to hand, or that there will always be time to make them. For such occasions stock cubes can be used, remembering that they are already salted (to my taste, over-salted), so it is best when making soup not to add salt until last, as in fact it may not be necessary.

Stock cubes vary greatly in strength and quality, and in the number of additives they contain. There are organic, largely additive-free stock cubes on the market, usually to be found in health food stores and some supermarkets and it is worthwhile experimenting with a few different brands to find the flavours you like. For light vegetable soups, where you want the flavour of the principal ingredient to dominate, use only half the recommended number of cubes.

When adding stock to soup ingredients it is a good idea to hold back a little, to be added later when the soup is almost ready, as it may not be required. It is easier to thin a soup than thicken one if there is too much liquid.

FISH STOCK

Most fishmongers will be happy to part with the bones and trimmings of white fish when you are making a purchase. Just be sure they are absolutely fresh.

1.5 kg/3 lb white fish bones or trimmings

1 large onion

1 stick celery

50 g/2 oz/ cup sliced mushrooms

1 leek

2 litres/3 pints/10 cups water

1 tablespoon lemon juice

bay leaf, sprig thyme, parsley

1 large glass white wine or dry cider

1 teaspoon peppercorns

Put the chopped vegetables in a large saucepan with the butter, cover and sweat the vegetables for 5 minutes. Add the rinsed fish bones, wine, peppercorns, lemon juice and herbs. Cover with the cold water and bring to the boil. Lower the heat and simmer gently for about 30 minutes, skimming once or twice. Strain the stock through a large sieve, cool quickly and transfer to the fridge as soon a possible. The stock can be kept in the fridge for a few days, but for longer storage transfer to the freezer.

CHICKEN STOCK

1.125 kg/2 lb 8 oz chicken carcasses or wings etc.

350 g/12 oz/2 cups carrots

2 sticks celery

2 onions

2 leeks

bay leaf, sprig thyme

a few peppercorns

2 litres/3 pints/10 cups water

2 cloves

1 glass white wine, optional

Rinse the chicken carcasses in cold water and put into a large saucepan. Add the other ingredients, cover with the water, bring quickly to the boil, stirring well for a few minutes and skimming when necessary. Cover, lower the heat and simmer gently, with the water barely shivering, and skimming from time to time, for about an hour and a half. Strain the stock, cool as quickly as possible and chill. The stock can be kept for a few days in the fridge, but for longer storage transfer to the freezer.