Helene Siegel - Totally Tomato Cookbook

Copyright 1996 by Helene Siegel. Illustrations copyright 1996 by Carolyn Vibbert. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information or storage and retrieval system, without the express permission of the publisher. Celestial Arts Publishing
P.O. Box 7123
Berkeley, CA 94707 The Totally Tomato Cookbook is produced by becker&mayer!, Ltd.

Interior illustrations: Carolyn Vibbert Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data:
Siegel, Helene. Totally Tomato Cookbook/ by Helene Siegel.
p. cm.
ISBN 0-89087-788-2
eBook ISBN: 978-0-8041-5304-1
1. Cookery (Tomato) 2. Tomato 1. Title.
TX803.

T6S54 1996
641.65642dc20 95-45226 v3.1 With special thanks to Ophelia Chong for sharing her bounty. Other cookbooks in this series: The Totally Eggplant CookbookThe Totally Picnic CookbookThe Totally Pizza Cookbook

T he history of the tomato is mired in controversy. From the beginning people have wondered: Is it a fruit or a vegetable? Poison or miracle cure? Easy to grow or voracious weed? Deliciously natural fruit of the vine, or symbol of our high-tech future? As a major tomato cook (I was once reprimanded by an editor for using too many), even I have to agree with Ralph Waldo Emerson that the taste for tomatoes, eaten straight, is an acquired one. My first bite was taken on a dare as a young child and I was not immediately impressed. Once I started cooking, however, my feelings grew. Unlike any other fruit (or vegetable) except perhaps garlic and onions, tomatoes act as a seasoning. Chopped and added to soups, stews, and sauces, they lift the other flavors with their uncommon blend of acidity and sweetness, and make them sing just a little bit clearer and higher.

Eaten fresh off the vine, dressed simply with some good olive oil, salt, pepper, and herbs, they are incomparable; pured into a soup they are heaven to look at and to taste. So whether you grow your own, buy them at the market, or receive them as a gift from a friend with a bountiful garden, seek out some delicious, fresh tomatoes next summer. Then dig in and enjoy!

This elegant gazpacho is a personal summer favorite. Serve at parties, garnished with croutons or slices of toasted baguette. 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 pounds tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped salt and freshly ground pepper 2 large cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and chopped cup tomato juice 1 tablespoons red wine vinegar 3 dashes Tabasco thinly sliced chives for garnish Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Cook the garlic briefly to release its aroma, then add tomatoes, salt, and pepper. Cook at a medium boil, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes.

Remove from heat. Place the cucumbers in a food processor or blender and pure. Add the tomatoes and remaining ingredients. Pure until smooth, adding more tomato juice to taste. Chill and serve ice cold, garnished with chives. S ERVES 4

To set the tone for an elegant dinner party, try starting with this refined French classic inspired by chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger. 2 tablespoons butter 2 leeks, white parts, thinly sliced 1 large fennel bulb, stalks separated and thinly sliced 3 large tomatoes, seeded and chopped 3 cups chicken or vegetable stock salt and freshly ground pepper to taste cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon Pernod or other anise flavored liqueur 3 dashes Tabasco fennel leaves for garnish Melt butter in heavy stockpot over medium heat.

Cook leeks and fennel until soft, about 15 minutes. Add tomatoes, stock, salt, and pepper. Bring to boil, reduce to simmer, and cook about 20 minutes. Transfer to food processor or blender in batches and pure until smooth. Strain back into pot and pour in cream. Bring back to boil, stir in Pernod and Tabasco.

Remove from heat. Serve hot, garnished with wispy fennel leaves. S ERVES 6

3 large tomatoes 1 small onion, unpeeled 3 garlic cloves, unpeeled 1 jalapeo pepper with seeds, stemmed cup vegetable oil teaspoon ground cumin 1 quart chicken stock salt to taste 2 ears fresh corn, kernels removed from cobs 8 dry corn tortillas, halved, and cut in strips cilantro leaves, lime wedges, and shredded mozzarella cheese for garnish Preheat the broiler and line baking sheet with foil. Place tomatoes, onion, garlic, and jalapeo on sheet. Broil, turning frequently, until charred all over, about 20 minutes. Peel onion and garlic and quarter onion.

Transfer everything to a food processor and pure until smooth. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in large stockpot over high heat. Saut cumin briefly. Pour in pured mixture and cook about 5 minutes. Add chicken stock and salt. Bring back to boil, reduce to simmer, and cookskimming and discarding foam as necessaryabout 20 minutes.

Stir in corn kernels and cook 1 minute longer. Fry tortilla strips in remaining oil in small skillet. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot soup garnished with tortilla strips, cilantro, lime wedges, and cheese. S ERVES 4

A light, no-fuss, stuffed tomato to brighten the senses. 6 medium tomatoes, halved 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 cup fresh corn kernels 1 garlic clove, minced pound flaked, cleaned crabmeat 1 celery rib, diced juice of lemon 3 tablespoons mayonnaise Tabasco and freshly ground pepper With a teaspoon, scrape out and discard tomato pulp and seeds. Place halves, cut-side down, on paper towels to drain.

Heat oil in small skillet over high heat. Saut corn and garlic about 1 minute. Combine crabmeat, celery, and corn in mixing bowl. Sprinkle with lemon juice, add mayonnaise, and gently stir to combine. Season to taste with Tabasco and pepper. Fill each tomato half with a generous tablespoonful of crab salad.

Serve cold. S ERVES 6 TO 12 Choosing the BestLet your nose, and the calendar, be your guide when choosing tomatoes. Color is not a reliable indicator. Late summer produces the best, most sugary tomatoes. Look for smooth, unwrinkled skin without mold. Dont be too concerned about cracking at the stem end; it could mean vine-ripening.

Store tomatoes at room temperature, since cold deadens their taste. The flavor of tomatoes dissipates quickly20 minutes after cutting or chopping.

Mango and tomato add a jolt of tropical flavor and color to this traditional South American fish salad. pound red snapper fillet, trimmed cup lime juice 1 cup diced red onion 2 medium tomatoes, seeded and diced 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 jalapeo chile, seeded and diced 1 mango, peeled and diced 2 tablespoons fresh chopped cilantro salt, pepper, and Tabasco Cut fish into -inch cubes. Place in shallow glass or ceramic bowl, pour on lime juice, cover with plastic wrap, and chill 4 to 5 hours, or until the largest piece is opaque in center. Drain fish, discarding the juice. Combine remaining ingredients in bowl, add fish, and toss to combine. Adjust seasonings and serve or store in the refrigerator up to 24 hours.