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Prague is a city of magic. No, really, it is. Skip the tourist traps and everything that claims to be authentic Czech culture, and open yourself to one of the most enchanting cities youll ever experience. Prague is neither sterile West European capital nor Eastern European post-Communist wreckits caught somewhere in between daily reality and the realm of mortal legends. These cobblestone streets were once walked upon by Franz Kafka, the famous brooding author, and planned out by Charles IV, the ambitious Czech king, who dreamed up Prague the way it looks today (aside from the fast food restaurants, of course). And then theres the more recent specter of Communism, which left the entire country with a semi-permanent hangover and some peculiar sights, like a Mal Strana tower where the Communist secret police spied on foreign ambassadors and on Czech citizens with hilariously outdated equipment. But time moves forward as indicated by the giant metronome that ticks away where an enormous Stalin statue once stood. All this, and the hundreds of spires piercing the air, the roofs merging into one big sea of red, and the glistening Vltava River create the magic. Well, that and the beer thats cheaper than water, the hip cafes, and the art, from the subtlest of jazz melodies to the heaviest of modern sculptures. Sometimes all you will see are masses of tourists, but Pragues magic undoubtedly remains.
If youre used to the dollar or the euro, boy did you come to the right place. If you stay in budget accommodations, take advantage of cheap food and beer, and stick to discounted sights and state-subsidized or free entertainment, you should be able to reap the full benefits of Pragues reasonable cost of living.
With a little clever footwork youll be avoiding the tourist traps of Old Town and sinking your teeth into some cheap smaen sr (fried cheese) in no time. There is no shortage of wallet-friendly eats in Prague: the trick is discerning authentic (read: picture menus) from authentic (not an English-speaking soul in sight). When you tire of knedlky (dumplings), meat, and potatoes, Prague offers an inexpensive grocery on just about every corner where you can stock up on cheap produce. And remember, in this city where a glass of water may cost you, the pivo (beer) is practically free.
: For a Czech meal in New Town that even the Czechs enjoy, head to V Cpu where fried cheese and some tank beer can be had for under 100K.
: Stop into this bakery in New Town for a quick breakfast or lunch. The chlebky (open-faced sandwiches) are true works of art that cost no more than 19K.
: Lunch here is as authentic as it gets in Old Town. The dearth of English may be intimidating at first, but hop in lineall of the classic Czech entrees are under 80K.
: Another cheap, locals-only joint in Old Town. Grab a tray, select a Czech meal, and take a seat next to some new friends.
: In a city of meat and potatoes, BEAS is a vegetarian paradise with its fresh Indian buffet and free water.
: Czech out these free tours to get acquainted with Pragues major sights.
FREE MOVIES: has free film screenings every Wednesday.
: Live music and DJ sets most of the week at no cover charge. Get there early the first 100 beers are just 12K.
: Experience legendary Holeovice nightlife at Club Mecca for no cover and just 39K per shot of vodka.
: Brush with the edge of contemporary art with free exhibits at the (in)famous David erns MeetFactory in Smichov.
Dont worry about taking out a second mortgage to pay for your stay in Prague. As the city grows ever more popular with visitors from around the world, budget hostels spring up to accommodate them. Because Prague is small and its public transportation efficient, practically any neighborhood makes a convenient place to hang your hat. Like most European capitals, Prague is a zoo in summertime, so be sure to book ahead during the high season to take advantage of budget accommodations.
: Sir Tobys has plenty of character and common space. Wake up from a night out in Holeovice to Crepe and Cartoon Sundays with your hostelmates.
: Check in to Czech Inn, a designer hostel that doubles as an art gallery in Vinohrady.
: Rooms at Hostel One are more like mini-apartments. Come nightfall, the staff leads groups out to the pubs and bars that line the streets of ikov.
: If youre looking to stay close to the action in Old Town, this is the place to do it.
: With one of the comfortable rooms at the Czech Republics first green hostel, Mosaic House, youll be right in the thick of it on Wenceslas Sq., near the sights of Old Town.
Some of the best sightseeing in Prague wont cost you a crown. Just walk around and look up: youll find everything from impeccably restored medieval churches to Art Nouveau wonders to Communist eyesores to dancing houses (were not joking, check out the ). When you do want to look inside, most sights offer student discounts.
Luckily for budget travelers, Prague is compact, and you could reach most sights by foot if you needed to. If you feel like splurging, the
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