Lonely Planet - Lonely Planet Ethiopia, Djibouti & Somaliland (Travel Guide)

In Ethiopia, Djibouti and Somaliland, youd be hard-pressed to find a better combination of nature and culture. The best part: therell be no crowds to hinder the experience.

Simien Mountains ( )
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Ethiopias landscape impresses in both scale and beauty. Travellers are thrilled by the amazing backdrop of canyons, chasms, lakes, savannah plains and high plateaus not to mention the mesmerisingly desolate Danakil Depression, peppered with an astonishing 25% of Africas active volcanoes. Lying at the convergence of three tectonic plates, Djibouti offers a unique geological landscape. The vast salt lake of Lac Assal and the bizarre lunarscape of Lac Abb are strangely unforgettable. Somaliland wows visitors with its natural beauty, from the superscenic Daallo Escarpment to the seemingly endless beaches that are strung along the coast.

These countries beg outdoor escapades with their larger-than-life, hallucinatory landscapes. Hiking and trekking in Ethiopias Simien and Bale Mountains or Djiboutis Goda Mountains are obvious choices. Then there are those must-do- before-you-die moments, such as swimming with whale sharks in Djiboutis Gulf of Tadjoura or diving amid coral- encrusted wrecks off Djibouti City. Last but not least, Ethiopia and Somaliland rank among Africas best birdwatching destinations, with plenty of endemic species. One thing is sure: youll be rewarded with memorable experiences.

Peopling these landscapes is a wide variety of African peoples, including the Afar, the Mursi, the Karo, the Hamer, the Nuer and the Anuak, whose ancient customs and traditions have remained almost entirely intact. Staying with these communities is a great introduction to a way of life once followed by all of humankind. A highlight of any trip to the Horn is witnessing one of the many ceremonies and festivals that are an integral part of traditional culture in the region. They may be Christian, Islamic or animist festivals, or village events, such as a wedding, a rite-of-passage celebration or a local market day.

Ethiopia, almost the only African country to have escaped European colonialism, has retained much of its cultural identity. Its sovereign story has left its wide-ranging and fertile highlands laden with historical treasures ranging from ancient Aksumite tombs and obelisks to 17th-century castles. And its not dubbed the Cradle of Humanity for nothing; archaeologically speaking, Ethiopia is to sub-Saharan Africa what Egypt is to North Africa. In neighbouring Somaliland, youll have the chance to marvel at the fantastic site of Las Geel, replete with exceptionally well-preserved rock paintings. Djibouti also boasts superb rock engravings hidden in the mountains.

Karo ( ) woman and child
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By far the most intriguing city in Ethiopia, Harar ( ) is a joy to explore. Getting lost in its crooked alleyways is just as fascinating as visiting the many museums, markets and traditional homes packed inside the old city walls. And then there are the hyenas. Two families feed them by hand, and let you do it too, but these large carnivores wander throughout the city and you may just bump into one while walking about at night. Thankfully, they find enough scraps of meat so that they have no interest in people.

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Lalibela

Seeing the rock-hewn churches ( ) of Lalibela on TV and in books is not enough to prepare you for the experience of walking inside them for real. Carved entirely out of rock, the still-functioning churches are large, artistically refined and mostly in excellent states of preservation. An early morning visit, when locals come to seek blessings and inspiration, shows their mystical side. The longer you visit the more you will be filled with wonder.

Bet Giyorgis ( )
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Timkat

Timkat, the feast of Epiphany, celebrates the baptism of Christ with a three-day festival starting on 19 January. Join the procession behind regalia-draped priests as the church tabots (replicas of the Ark of the Covenant) are taken to a nearby body of water on the afternoon of the eve of Timkat. Next morning, the tabots are paraded back to the church accompanied by much singing and dancing. Easily Ethiopias most colourful festival.

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Las Geel (Somaliland)

Gaping at the rock paintings at Las Geel ( ) feels like taking a time machine into the prehistoric past. This enigmatic site was known only to locals until late 2002 when a team of French archaeologists undertook a field mission in Somaliland. What to expect? Quantities of rock paintings that are striking both for their rich complexity and their incredible state of preservation. As if that wasnt enough, the site is easily accessible from Hargeisa.

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Lac Abb (Djibouti)

There is nothing else on earth quite like the large, spikelike calcareous chimneys of Lac Abb ( ). Hot springs dot the landscape, and fumaroles can also be found. These surreal-looking formations are a geological work of art, the result of millennia of volcanic activity and wind erosion. Experiencing this eerie landscape at dawn or at sunset is truly exhilarating.