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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The Eat columnwhich began its run in The New York Times Magazine in 2011, and continues, though in a different formhad a number of key and consistent influences and sources of energy. Hugo Lindgren not only gave me the job but let me run with it; Matt Willey and Kelly Doe understood the kind of column I wanted to put together and came up with the wonderful design that was then represented in the magazine for more than three years. Gail Bichler further refined it, constantly. Amy Kellner supervised all the photo shoots and, as you can see, some of them were doozies. Bill Ferguson and Claire Gutierrez edited almost all of the stories. The photographs were mostly shot by Yunhee Kim and Sam Kaplan, and much of the cooking and food styling was done by Maggie Ruggiero and my friend Suzanne Lenzer.
Many other people were involved in producing the original pieces: Arem Duplessis, Jason Stefko, Sara Cwynar, Joel Lovell, Lauren Kern, Laura Anderson, Daniel Meyer, Kerri Conan, Meghan Gourley, Eve Turow, Elena Goldblatt, Brian Klutch, Ian Allen, Evan Sung, Claire Benoist, Victor Prado, Marcus Nilsson, Levi Brown, William Brinson, Annie Schlechter, Tom Schierlitz, Ralph Smith, Maggie Ruggiero, Claudia Ficca, Michelle Gatton, Karen Evans, Michaela Hayes, Susan Ottaviano, Jamie Kimm, Chelsea Zimmer, Chris Lanier, Brian Preston-Campbell, Brett Kurzweil, Mariana Velasquez, Paul Grimes, Megan Schlow, Maeve Sheridan, Theo Vamvounakis, Deborah Williams, Raina Kattelson, Angharad Bailey, Kira Corbin, Susan Brinson, Randi Brookman Harris, Kaitlyn Du Ross, Caroline Colston, Bettina Budewig, Leslie Siegel, and Megan Hedgpeth.
Like I saida lot of people. So when it came time to turn this beautiful mass into a book, we had great material. Here there was a group of people I work closely with, admire, and am indebted to: Daniel Meyer did both grunt and fine work during what I hope is not our last time working together. Kerri Conan provided her usual wisdom and experience. Pam Krauss and Angela Miller ran the show. Kelly Doe, with Emily Crawford, converted the magazine pieces to a book-friendly design and format, which has worked beautifully. Thanks also to Merri Ann Morrell, who did such an incredible and fast job on composition, and also Michael Nagin, Mark McCauslin, Linnea Knollmueller, Stephanie Huntwork, Lauren Monchik, Carly Gorga, Anna Mintz, and Kate Tyler.
None of this would have been possible without Kelly.
INTRODUCTION
For years Ive said, If you can cook 10 recipes, you can cook 10,000, and while Ive always felt it was true, Ive never believed it more strongly than I do right now. Writing this book has convinced me all over again that from simple recipes spring nearly endless possibilities.
Real home cooking, to borrow an old but apt clich, is a marathon, not a sprint. Its something you do day to day, week to week, season to season, year to year, forever. Most of us who cook on a regular basis dont constantly come up with brilliant and innovative dishesId probably be out of ideas in a monthnor do we slavishly follow recipes to the letter; Id be bored in a week. Instead, we stake out a sweet spot somewhere in the middle; we learn how to cook a handful of basic dishessalad and vinaigrette, tomato sauce, or soup, for instanceand what to do with everyday ingredients, like chicken breasts, shrimp, or potatoes. As soon as were comfortable with core recipes and techniques we begin to improvise, swapping cilantro for parsley, say, or braising in coconut milk instead of wine, or grilling instead of broiling. We embrace the small but meaningful variations that can transform the identity of a dish, make an old favorite taste like a new creation, and turn a modest repertoire of recipes into a lifetime of wonderful meals.
This book showcases and encourages the kind of creativity and flexibility that make daily cooking not just doable but also pleasurable. And it takes little more than a glance at the chapters hererecipes come in multiple guises: some are conventional with ingredient lists and steps; others are more radical with directions scarcely longer than a tweet. Many are meant to facilitate improvisation in the kitchen, catering to all sorts of cooking styles and preferences.
Whether you like to stick to the script or cook off the cuff, undertake all-day projects or bang out fast weeknight meals, plan a detailed menu or shop first and ask questions later, there is something here for you. With this combination of recipes, art, and text I hope to depict as richly and inventively as I can just how infinitely gratifying cooking can be.
GROUND RULES
All recipes serve four unless other-wise noted.
Salt and pepper is assumed for every recipe (except desserts) where its not mentioned explicitly. Use your judgment, but do use salt.
When neutral oil is specified you can use grapeseed or corn oil (safflower and sunflower are fine too).
Olive oil means extra-virgin.
All lemon and lime juice should be fresh.
All butter is unsalted.
All cream is heavy (whipping) cream.
Flour is all-purpose unless otherwise specified.
For scallions, use both white and green parts unless specified.
For ingredients that dont have specific quantities listed, use your judgment and taste, taste, taste.
Even for seasoned home cooks, the idea of entertaining can be daunting. But it doesnt have to be. For the most part, any dish thats good enough to cook for yourself is good enough to serve to a crowd (and theres not a recipe in this chapter or any other that Id hesitate to make for guests). What youll find here ranges from simple snack foods, like dips and chicken wings, to fancy fare, like tartare. None of it is particularly onerous to prepare, which helps eliminate needless panic and lets you pay as much (or more) attention to your guests as to the food youre serving them. There are also plenty of other apps, hors doeuvre, and dinner party showstoppers scattered throughout the book, to name just a few.