Ross Dobson - Grillhouse: Gastropub At Home

In recent times we have seen the grillhouse making what some may call a comeback. This kind of gastropub-style food has often been unfairly represented as ironically-chic, very basic or even bordering on the comically retro. But I think this food actually deserves to be taken seriously. There is no doubt in my mind that there is an enduring sense of fun around this food that may have been sidelined while it was replaced by some trendier, new kids on the block, but in its forced retirement, it somehow got street cred, was rehabilitated and clawed its way back.

And if we think of retro food as the style of recipes from days gone by, this collection never really went anywhere. Weve never stopped eating and enjoying classic, simple, hearty food. It may have been a while since it graced the covers of the foodie magazines but did people ever stop wanting to have a proper prawn cocktail, a perfectly roasted chicken or a juicy pepper steak?

Fads come and go and while this food is both fun and easy to make, it has also endured the test of time. It is simple, earnest and has endeared itself to us. It is about as up-front as food can be. I mean, could you get anything more classic than beef burgundy or steak and kidney pie or more honest than a prawn cutlet, potato gratin, cauliflower mornay or a piece of expertly grilled fish?

A rose by any other name would smell as sweet ... now whod have thought I could reference Shakespeare when talking about grillhouse food? But thats just the thing, its all about what it is and not what its called. The grillhouse can mean many things to many people. Where I grew up there were several; The Wine Barrel, The Log Cabin, The Silver Grill. The latter was a restaurant where I worked as a nervous teen, made even more nervous by our uniform requirement of tight black pants, cumberbunds and flaming-red matador jackets. In this over-the-top garb, we had to attempt silver service for the unsuspecting customers while slicing smoked salmon and chateaubriand tableside. This aside, the chef would often give us samples from the menu and I couldnt get enough; pork medallions in creamy sauces, steaks cooked to perfection, lobster mornay and raspberry parfait. Though I have never worn a cumberbund since I still really enjoy the food.

Fancy does not always have to mean tricky. With these recipes, any hard work involved is often able to be done well in advance like the pork terrine, potted prawns or salt cod fritters. Its all about the prep. All you really need for a good steak is a hot grill and a few tips. Many of the accompaniments, butters and sauces can be made ahead of time and flavoured with garlic, curry, herbs or anchovies. Sauces are kept simple and classic; spiked with peppercorn, whisky cream, burnt butter and sage, or for a much simpler approach, you can occasionally mix this up with a few good-quality, ready-to-go sauces like Tabasco or a zesty mayonnaise. Marinades can do their trick overnight or within hours. Remember to be especially patient when grilling fish. Let the skin cook until crisp and golden on the grill before you even think of turning it over, and a sprinkling of sea salt and some freshly squeezed lemon is all you need to finish the dish off. There is no denying, however, that some recipes will require more thought and patience. Making a Bombe Alaska is not as simple as boiling an egg ... although, it is a far more fun and rewarding experience.

This is not an attempt at redefining food but rather a celebration of the classics. This collection of recipes includes dishes that are simple but rich, casual and fun with results that are very often posh but never snobby.

The grillhouse is not just retro or making a comeback I dont think it really went anywhere in the first place.

It seems that the more the food costs, the less you need to fuss with it take caviar and oysters as prime examples. This goes for all other good seafood and cuts of meat that require cooking. While cheap cuts of meat do need some slow cooking magic all we need do to a fillet steak or lobster is cook it quickly and serve it simply. Have the pan ready. Have the sides ready and youre almost there.

2 rashers bacon, rind removed, cut into matchsticks 2 tablespoons finely diced red onion 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

400 g (14 oz) rock salt 24 oysters, shucked

lemon wedges, to serve

Heat the oil in a small non-stick frying pan over high heat. Add the bacon and stir-fry for 45 minutes until golden and crisp. Add the onion and cook for 23 minutes or until the onion has softened. Stir in the vinegar and cook for a few seconds or until nearly evaporated. Remove from the heat, then transfer it to a bowl and stir in the Worcestershire.

Preheat a grill (broiler) to high. Spread the rock salt over a baking tray, then place the oysters on top. Divide the bacon mixture among the shells. Cook under the grill for a short while this depends on how far your oysters are from the heat, but you want the bacon to just start to sizzle. Serve with lemon wedges and a grind of black pepper.

potted prawns

SERVINGS

150 g (5 oz) unsalted butter, softened, plus 15 g ( oz) extra 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) very small cooked prawns (shrimps), peeled, deveined and roughly chopped if slightly larger