McRae Jewell Judy W C - Moon Coastal Oregon

HANDBOOKS

W. C. MCRAE & JUDY JEWELL

In few other places on earth is the meeting of land and sea as dramatic and beautiful as along Oregons 360 miles of Pacific coastline, from the mouth of the Columbia River to the redwood forests at the California border. Here, at the far western skirt of the continent, nature has found an expansive stage on which to act out the full range of its varied and ceaseless dramas, from the microcosm of a tidepool to the ferocious storms that make first landfall here. Rocky headlands rise high above the ocean, dropping away to the pounding waves in cliffs hundreds of feet high. Lone fingers of rock poke through sandy beaches and march out far into the surging waves. Seals, sea lions, puffins, and innumerable shorebirds make their home in this marine wilderness.

Here you can find intense solitude, in the company of only the calling seabirds, and experience firsthand why residents refer to this coast as The Edge. The comforts of civilization and human company are also close by in an inviting string of towns and villages, each with its own character and charms.

Dont neglect the opportunity to get outdoors and experience the full range of recreation available here. Cycling the Oregon Coast Bike Route is a rite of passage for many bicyclists from around the world. The Oregon Coast Trail provides hikers many opportunities to explore the coastline. The bays and estuaries are tempting destinations for kayakers, as they provide a watery backdrop for excellent marine bird and wildlife viewing. Diminished wild salmon runs have limited some coastal sportfishing expeditions, but the catch is still good for halibut, tuna, and bottom fish. And when fishing boats from Newport, Depoe Bay, Garibaldi, and Astoria arent seeking the catch of the day, many offer whale-watching trips. Surfing the chill waters of the north Pacific demands a particular brand of hardiness, but many find that, with the right wetsuit, theyre able to catch some waves.

Considering the scenic splendor of the Oregon coast, it may seem odd that it remains largely unblemished by upscale tourist infrastructure. In part, this is due to a farsighted state government, which in the 1910s set aside as public land the entire length of Oregons Pacific coastline. The Oregon coast belongs to the people. Its a place where human visitors can encounter the creatures of the sea and forest, and observe the mighty forces of nature.

Although part of a seamless whole, sharing a common shoreline and linked by an unbroken scenic highway, each part of the coast possesses a distinct regional flavor and allure that have attracted visitors for centuries.

Historic Astoria Column	harbor in Newport

In the northjourneys end for Lewis and Clarksteep headlands break up wide sandy beaches. The northern Oregon coastjust 1.5 hours from Portlandis the most developed and heavily populated part of the coast. Historic Astoria, fun-loving Seaside, and artsy Cannon Beach are all within a short drive of one another, but are remarkably different in character. But dont think its just one town after anotherhuge areas of the coast are set aside as state parks, and there are ample opportunities to hike, camp, and explore tidepools.

The central coast is anchored at its northern end by sprawling Lincoln City and its family-friendly wide beaches and is centered around Newport, the largest city in the area, with charming older neighborhoods, very good restaurants, an active fishing port, and the Oregon Coast Aquarium. Farther south, Florence and Reedsport border the astounding Oregon Dunes, an otherworldly sand-scape with massive sand dunes, lakes, and broad lazy estuaries.

The south coast feels far from everything: a landscape of ocean-fronting mountains cloaked by dense evergreen forest, wild rivers, and black sand beaches punctuated with dramatic rock formations. Postindustrial Coos Bay neednt delay you, but just to the west are wild and beautiful natural areas, including Cape Arago and the fascinating estuarine area at South Slough. Bandon is small, cozy, and full of tourists, many there for the world-class golf courses at Bandon Dunes. The southernmost part of Oregons coastline may well be its most scenic, especially the stretch between Port Orford and Brookings.

A WEEKEND: Visit Astoria, Seaside, and Cannon Beach on the north coast.

ONE WEEK: Explore the central coast and add Lincoln City, Newport, and an excursion to the Oregon Dunes.