The face, including the cranial hair, represents an area of our body with a high impact on our social interactions. It is strongly associated with individual identity, and it communicates to others immediately information on our age, gender, individual, and group identity. Since our craniofacial presentation affects our self-perception, it has a bearing on our social behavior as well.
1.1 Symbolism of Male Hair
Hair has been significant to human civilization at all times and in all cultures in terms of symbolism for strength, sexuality, and magic. Throughout the ages people have represented through craniofacial characteristics their identities with respect to a wide range of social phenomena: religious, political, sexual, occupational, etc. Hair not only symbolizes the self but is itself a part of our body. Therefore, its condition also reflects our general health and mental status. Accordingly, any change in the appearance of our hair can be expected to have a major impact on the way we are perceived, on our self-perception, and ultimately on our well-being.
More specifically, the male expresses his ideologies and status in his hair. The biblical story of Samson and Delilah (Judges 16) shows how important a mans hairstyle can be. Short or long, loose or taut, mens hairstyles have passed through many stages throughout history. At most times and in most cultures, men have worn their hair in styles different from womens.
American sociologist Rose Weitz pointed out that the most prevalent cultural rule about hair is that womens and mens hair must differ from each other.
During most periods in human history when men and women wore similar hairstyles, as in the 1920s and 1960s, it has therefore generated significant social concern and approbation.
A hairstyle refers to the manner of arranging human scalp hair. Its aesthetic considerations are determined by a number of factors, such as the individuals physical attributes and desired self-image or the hairstylists artistic intentions. Physical factors include natural hair type and growth patterns, face and head shape, and overall body proportions. Self-image may be directed toward conforming to mainstream values, identifying with distinctively groomed subgroups, or following religious rules.
Early in human civilization, voluntary cutting of ones hair has been related to spiritual expression: In Ancient Egypt, the priests of Amun-Ra shaved their heads, and wealthy men or members of the royal elite would cover their shaven heads with elaborate headdresses. Upon reaching manhood, Greek youths sacrificed their hair to the river. In ancient Rome, haircutting was a puberty ritual, with spiritual significance.
In stark contrast, the Germanic tribes Teutons and Celts refrained from haircutting in order to differentiate themselves from their shaven slaves. Upon subduing the Gauls, who associated long hair with male dignity and liberty, Julius Caesar (10044 BC) required them to cut their hair as a token of submission. That abundant hair symbolized power presented a problem for Caesar himself, since his hairline was gradually receding. First, he began growing it long in the back and combing it straight forward over his bald spot.
Ultimately, Caesar took to wearing a laurel wreath around his head to conceal his hair loss. The trademark wreath soon became a symbol of power and authority.
Following the downfall of the Roman Empire, most of Europe adopted the hair of the Germanic peoples. During the reign of the Merovingian dynasty, King Chlodio V (395448) was nicknamed Le Chevelu because he wore his hair longer than most of his predecessors. During this time, long locks were a symbol of status. Royalty wore their hair long while members of the lower classes either had short hair or shaved heads.
During the English Civil War (16421651), the followers of Oliver Cromwell decided to crop their hair close to their head, as an act of defiance to the curls and ringlets of the kings men. This led to the Parliamentary faction being nicknamed Roundheads .
In the seventeenth-century France, wearing a long wig was a sign of status, made popular by the French Kings Louis XIII (16011643) and Louis XIV (16381715). Louis XIII began wearing a wig to cover his thinning hair. Soon, members of the court followed his example, regardless of their own hair condition. Louis XIV, also known as Le Roi-Soleil (the Sun King), made public appearances and frequently posed for portraits in a long, dark brown wig with loose waves. Wigs became symbols of wealth and power, and the height, length, and bulk of wigs increased accordingly, with giant powdered wigs setting the trend in the French court.
In England, King Charles II (16351685) was restored to the throne after his exile in Versailles, France, where he had been exposed to the French fashioning of wigs. During the Restoration period following Cromwell, the English were soon not to be outdone. Charles II was popularly known as the Merry Monarch, in reference to both the liveliness and hedonism of his court and the general relief at the return to normality after over a decade of rule by Oliver Cromwell and the Puritans.
Around 1710, in the Rococo era, the long-flowing allonge wigs went out of fashion, and hairdos stayed close to the scalp. Except for a few locks around the forehead, the main part of the hair (natural or artificial) was brushed to the back. Later on, some people wore a pigtail modelled on the hairstyle of the Prussian soldiers, a hairstyling still fashioned today by designer Karl Lagerfeld. He is well recognized around the world for his trademark white hair, black glasses, and high starched collars.
In the Americas, upper class American colonists picked up the wig fashion, and by the late eighteenth century, wealthy people wore wigs to signify their elevated class. Not until the American War of Independence (17751783) and in France the subsequent Revolution (1789), the look of royalty and elevated class distinction together with wigs fell out of favor.
At the end of the eighteenth century, men of fashion began to wear short and more natural hair, sporting cropped curls and long sideburns in a classical manner much like Grecian warriors and Roman senators.
A scarcity of flour to powder the wigs in 1795, combined with the introduction of a hair powder tax to raise state revenues, brought the fashion for wigs and powder to an abrupt halt. Men protested and a new more natural hairstyle became fashionable. The Bedford Crop became a hairstyle favored by the Duke of Bedford, who, in protest to the tax, abandoned his wigs in favor of a short cropped and unpowdered hairstyle. He challenged his friends to do the same. His natural-looking crop was parted on the side with a dab of hair wax.