RESISTANCE AND EMPOWERMENT IN BLACK WOMENS HAIR STYLING
Interdisciplinary Research Series in Ethnic, Gender and Class Relations
Series Editor: Biko Agozino, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, Blacksburg, Virginia
This series brings together research from a range of disciplines including criminology, cultural studies and applied social studies, focusing on experiences of ethnic, gender and class relations. In particular, the series examines the treatment of marginalized groups within the social systems for criminal justice, education, health, employment and welfare.
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Resistance and Empowerment in Black Womens Hair Styling
ELIZABETH JOHNSON
Governors State University, USA
First published 2013 by Ashgate Publishing
Published 2016 by Routledge
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Copyright Elizabeth Johnson 2013
Elizabeth Johnson has asserted her right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identified as the author of this work.
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British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
Johnson, Elizabeth.
Resistance and empowerment in black womens hair styling. (Interdisciplinary research series in ethnic, gender and class relations)
1. Hairdressing of BlacksSocial aspects. 2. HairstylesSocial aspects. 3. HairstylesPsychological aspects. 4. Women, BlackPsychology. 5. WomenIdentity. 6. BlacksRace identity. 7. Identity (Psychology) and mass media. 8. Hair preparationsMarketing.
I. Title II. Series
306.461308996dc23
The Library of Congress has cataloged the printed edition as follows:
Johnson, Elizabeth.
Resistance and empowerment in Black womens hair styling/by Elizabeth Johnson.
pages cm. (Interdisciplinary research series in ethnic, gender and class relations)
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-1-4094-4577-7 (hbk. : alk. paper) ISBN 978-1-4094-4578-4 (ebk) 1. Group identity. 2. African American women. 3. HairstylesSocial aspects. 4. African American women in advertising. I. Title.
HM753.J54 2014
305.48896073dc23
2012042968
ISBN 9781409445777 (hbk)
ISBN 9781315605753 (ebk)
Contents
List of Figures
List of Tables
Series Editors Preface
Biko Agozino
It has been said that Indians have less hair than the whites, except on the head. But this is a fact of which fair proof can scarcely be had. With them it is disgraceful to be hairy on the body. They say it likens them to hogs. They therefore pluck the hair as fast as it appears. But the traders who marry their women, and prevail on them to discontinue this practice, say, that nature is the same with them as with the whites. Nor, if the fact be true, is the consequence necessary which has been drawn from it. Negroes have notoriously less hair than the whites; yet they are more ardent.
Thomas Jefferson, Notes on the State of Virginia, 1785.
Here Thomas Jefferson canvassed support for white supremacy among the then relatively more liberal French people in his unabashedly racist manifesto of scatological bondage fantasy. Jefferson was engaged in the mythology of white supremacy by suggesting that being more hairy by nature was proof of greater moral worth and beauty. Thus when Native American women pioneered the now-popular art of shaving their body as an aesthetic preference, the white farmers who married them prevailed on them to let the hair grow like white women who were the standard of beauty in the eyes of white men who presumed that they possessed the right to all women. With respect to black women, Jefferson asserted that they had notoriously less hair than whites; yet they are more ardent.
More ardent in what sense (having, expressive of, or characterized by intense feeling; passionate; fervent: an ardent vow; ardent love, according to an online dictionary)? The respected statesman and intellectual of inalienable natural equality wickedly refused to free the enslaved mother that he kept as a lifetime sexual object and she was only pulled from the auction block by her own half-sister after the death of the founding father. Sally Hemings was said to have been 7/8 white (octoroon) and that she had long flowing hair like a white woman, she was very pretty and several of her children passed as white and married well into the white community.
The above story should serve to alert the reader to the symbolic importance of Resistance and Empowerment in Black Womens Hair Styling by Dr. Elizabeth Johnson who argues that the texture of the hair of black women is a text to be encoded and decoded, following Stuart Hall and Roland Barthes, given the semiotic meanings of beauty, morality, desirability and employability that are perceived in the personalities of black women based primarily on the texture of their hair. Applying the perspectives of Critical Race Theory by Kimberley Crenshaw, Patricia Hill Collins, bell hooks and others, Dr. Johnson demonstrates that no other group of women comes close to paying such stiff prices for the choices they make regarding their hair-care compared to the historically specific conditioning of black women since slavery to aspire to the white female long hair style and texture as the standard of all that is dubiously good; dubious because such white looks endangered black girls to the lust of powerful white men who would acquire them and discard them like any other piece of property. Kinky, wooly, nappy or curly black hair was by definition, bad hair and employers could use those textures, along with the rebellious Afro and Rasta hairstyles as justifications for racist-sexist employment-based discriminations.
The result is that black women, according to Dr. Johnson, out-spend white women on beauty products by a wide margin. I did not know that. I would have expected that since more white women undergo expensive cosmetic surgeries than black women, the white women probably spend more on beauty products than black women but Dr. Johnson may have been referring to beauty salon products here. She reveals that such beauty shops are not just shops but philosophy schools where women socialize and exchange ideas about everything under the heavens. Compare that to the ordinarily named braiding shops run by West African women across America. One set of shops is dubbed beauty salons and the lesser cousins are simply braiding shops. Go figure.