Hye-young Park - Koreas Natural Wonders: Exploring Koreas Landscapes

Koreas Natural Wonders

Exploring Koreas Landscapes

KOREA ESSENTIALS No. 9

Koreas Natural Wonders
Exploring Koreas Landscapes

Copyright 2012 by The Korea Foundation

All Rights Reserved.

No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means without the written permission of the publisher.

First Published in 2012 by Seoul Selection

B1 Korean Publishers Association Bldg., 105-2 Sagan-dong,

Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-190, Korea

Phone: (82-2) 734-9567

Fax: (82-2) 734-9562

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Website: www.seoulselection.com

ISBN: 978-1-62412-043-5

INTRODUCTION

For those living in Seoul, its easy to conclude that the urban swath of concrete grays and muddy browns is all there is to see in Korea. Yet those who look up can glimpse crests of mountains, seemingly faraway yet thankfully ever-present. Such is Korean naturenever imposing or intimidating, forever patiently waiting for us to take notice. In a way, this book was written in the hope of encouraging more readers to take notice of this subdued, yet spectacular, beauty.

Take a look around at the ubiquitous mountains that dot the peninsula (about which more is written in the chapter on mountains). Theyre hard to miss, as it is said one can see mountains from anywhere in Korea. Or make an afternoon sojourn to any one of Koreas Ramsar-registered inland wetlands. Go for a walk among fields of reeds, or engage in stealthy bird-watching in the hope of sighting endangered species like the hooded crane or Oriental stork. If you still yearn for more exposure to local flora and fauna, consider heading out to one of Koreas seasof which there are three (being a peninsula, Korea is bordered on three sides by water). The South, East, and West Seas are each distinctive, and the coasts feature foods that are some of the countrys most flavorful. If youre in the capital city and ache for a change of pace, go for a walk along the Hangang River, Seouls most distinctive geographic feature. By bifurcating the city, it created the Gangbuk (north of the river) and Gangnam (south of the river) districts, each of which evolved to develop its own personality. The river has witnessed the changes in the citysand by extension the countryshistory, and remains iconic to this day, down to the bridges that crisscross it at 31 points. If you can spare a few days, however, go for an excursion to Jeju-do, Koreas biggest island, and arguably its biggest tourist destination, too. Known for its three plentieswind, rocks, and womenthe island is incredibly friendly and welcoming; until recently, the gates there were kept unlocked. Indeed, the popular trekking trails along the coast are named Olle, meaning, Wont you come?

In a sense, this book extends the same welcome to its readers. Wont you come to Korea and experience its natural wonders?

Korea is a wonderful, marvelous country....theres a variety of beaches and mountains creating great scenery, as well as nice buildings. Its culture and religion are also diverse and interesting.

Yves Leterme
OECD deputy secretary-general
The Korea Times, September 2012

A rguably Seouls most distinctive natural feature, the Hangang River juggles several symbolic roles simultaneouslyat once a historical touchstone, a social gathering place, and, of course, a place of natural beauty that is not to be missed.

The fourth longest river on the Korean Peninsula, the Hangang spans a length of approximately 514 km and provides the water that flows into the numerous tributaries that branch out across the city and function as mini-Hangangs unto themselves, offering similar places of refuge for weary urban dwellers. The river itself is sourced by twin Hangangs that emerge from the slopes of Mt. Geumgangsan in North Korea. It bisects the city, a fact that incidentally gave rise to the pseudo-geographical terms Gangnam (south of the river) and Gangbuk (north of the river) to describe city localities that have each developed their own distinctive character over time. After coursing through the city, the river flows out to the Yellow Sea.

It has evolved over time, first as a witness to many crucial moments in Koreas history, and then as an important landmark next to which prime real estate sprang up. Now, the Hangang River acts as a scenic respite for city residents, a leisure destination for water sports enthusiasts, an outdoor entertainment venue for concerts and festivals, and much more.

BACKGROUND AND GEOGRAPHY

When the Joseon Dynasty (13921910) selected Hanyang (modern-day Seoul) as its capital, the Hangang River was no doubt a key consideration. Residents drew their water from the river, which served as a ready conduit for the transport of people and commodities as well. The river was constantly bustling with people and activity, naturally becoming a center of everyday life and commerce from early on. As a community focal point, the rivers significance has remained relatively constant, but its surrounding scenery is another story entirely. Vendors lugging bundles on their backs have been replaced by businessmen toting briefcases and laptops, while the landings that received ferryboats have become massive bridges that accommodate endless flows of traffic.

Yeouido Hangang Park

The name Hangang originates from the Korean word hangaram. The word han is similar to an ancient word that meant great and sacred. During the Joseon period, sacrificial rituals were performed for the four great rivers, those that flowed directly into the sea. There was one river in each of the four cardinal directions: the Nakdonggang (east), Daedonggang (west), Yongheunggang (north), and Hangang (south). Foreign documents sometimes referred to the Hangang as the Seoul River.

The Hangang River flows past the village of Misa-ri beneath Paldang Dam, at which point it grows broader and deeper as it passes former landing sites such as Gwangnaru Ferry and Samjeondo. Not far from here is Seouls Apgujeong district, where Mt. Namsan silently overlooks the rivers flowing waters. This mountain is described in the poetry by Lee Byeong-yeon: As the light of the morning sun dances on the Hangang River / I can dimly see the fishing boats between the mountain peaks. At its foot is the district of Itaewon. Here, the river reaches Noryangjin (heron crossing ferry), so named because of the herons that used to frequent the area. Noryangjin was one of the three ferry sites along the Hangang River in Seoul, in addition to Yanghwajin and Hangangjin.

As the river flows downstream, its bed gradually broadens and its waters flow more slowly. Because of the slower flow, the sand and silt carried along by the water from upstream areas are deposited onto the bed, where they accumulate. Over time, this process has created several islands along the river, including Namiseom, Yeouido, and Bamseom, as well as a number of uninhabited islets. Yeouido, formerly a place of exile during the Goryeo Period, is close to the Mapo Ferry (also called Samgae Ferry). Grain from all around the country used to be transported by barge along the West Sea, up the Hangang River, and on to Mapo Ferry and Yongsan Ferry, where they were stored in warehouses such as Gwangheungchang and Daeheungchang.