Lonely Planet Belgium & Luxembourg
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Belgium & Luxembourg
Bruges canals, Antwerp fashion, Luxembourg bubbles, Trappist beers, chocolate and chips, belfries and castles, crazy carnivals These two small countries certainly punch above their weight.
As well as historic town cores and a bounty of Unesco sites, discover stalactite-filled caves, post-industrial heritage, forest-edged kayaking rivers, rural chteaux and sandy North Sea beaches. Cutting-edge museums and finely endowed galleries unveil the complex history of what has been a crucible of European art, from the Flemish Primitives, through Rubens voluptuous nymphs and art nouveaus sinuous curves to bizarre surrealism, comic strips and 21st-century fashion. And in spring, dont miss some of the worlds weirdest carnivals lubricated by some of the planets finest beers.
Since at least Roman times, what we now call Belgium and Luxembourg have regularly fallen in the path of invaders, not least in the last two centuries. A lion statue atop a conical artificial hill overlooks the world-famous Waterloo battlefield where Napoleon was finally defeated. Seemingly endless rows of white gravestones in Flanders fields commemorate four years of WWI hell. And haunting museums honour those who died in WWII, notably during the devastating Battle of the Bulge, Hitlers last-ditch counter-attack in Luxembourg and the Ardennes.
With magical market squares, belfries, canals and step-gabled houses, most of Belgiums art cities lie in predominantly flat, Dutch-speaking Flanders. These places are close together and seamlessly interconnected by regular public transport. In contrast, much of hilly, French-speaking Wallonia is profoundly rural, so its useful to have your own wheels to reach the activity-packed holiday spots of the Ardennes. Luxembourg falls somewhere between the two: beyond its compact, sophisticated capital lie many pretty castle villages that are rural yet relatively accessible.
Luxembourg is a gourmets paradise while Belgiums remarkable range of comestible specialities goes far beyond the countrys diminutive size. Brussels and Lige compete over what constitutes the perfect waffle, while countless speciality shops sell sublime chocolates. Jumbo mussels are served with crispy, twice-fried frites that youll only call French fries at your peril. Brewing is an almost mystical art in Belgium with a dazzling rainbow of different styles, most notably the six great Trappist beers, created within active monasteries. Meanwhile Luxembourg maintains its own celebratory mood with an ever-flowing supply of local Moselle bubbly.
by Mark Elliott, Writer
As a school child, some of my most vivid travel memories were of Luxembourgs Clervaux castle rising spookily through the mist. And of Brussels baffling Atomium that seemed to be related more to my chemistry lessons than to practical architecture. Later, living 15 years in Belgium, I came to realise that the countrys love of surrealism goes deeper than Magrittes pipe or the orange-lobbing Gilles at Binche carnival, creating a self-deprecating humour in people for whom their countrys very creation sometimes still seems like an 1830 geopolitical joke.
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