ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I never thought Id hear myself saying this (or writing it as the case may be), but its true: Writing a book is not a solitary achievement. It is the result of a pretty major network of people: friends, colleagues, editors, family, and sometimes even random people you meet on the street. In this case, first and foremost, I could not have written this book without being lucky enough to rope my photographer friend, Liz Linder, into working on it with me. Not only is she the consummate image maker in so many different genres of photography, but she is a wonderful friend and a tireless worker, and I could not have done this without her. Same goes for her studio manager, Casey Engels, who was more patient with me than I ever deserved and who dealt with some hairy math equations as we numbered and renumbered the photos for the book!
Secondly, though hardly secondly, I have my models to thankall of whom volunteered their time and their bodies, for my projecteven after finding out that there would be underwear photos of them distributed nationally for all to see. The models were brave, flexible, funny, and professional, and they have all become my friends if they were not before. I admire each and every one of them, and I thank them from the bottom of my heart. Heres to you Amy Bebergal, Beth Daly, Felisha Foster, Lily Leaton, Supriya Mehta, Karen Santospago, Morgan Stockmayer, Deborah Wieder, Yvette Wilkes, and Sara Wilkinson.
To the ladies at LOOKS Boutique (my second family) in Cambridge: Ellen, MaryBeth, Paige, and Suzanne, for their help with the clothes. And especially to LOOKS owner, Judy Armell, who gave me free access to her stores wonderful clothes for my shoots and also pretty much acts as my other mother in so many ways.
To my editor Ellen Phillips, for being so patient with me and for her keen eye at pulling out the important points in my long-winded prose to highlight for all of you readers.
To the women in my entrepreneurial group WREN (Womens Roundtable Entrepreneurial Network): Karen A., Abbey K., Hannah, Nancy, Sheila, Ellen, Liz, and Sonja, for continuing to inspire me and keep me going in many senses.
And to my family (Mom, Dad, Hurtt, Sarah, Carrie, Amy, Peter, and Jimmy, Pat C., and David J.) for supporting me and believing in me always, despite my changing life paths. And for my boys, Noah and Theo, the lights of my life.
about the author
Emily Neill was working on her doctorate in theology at Harvard when she decided that helping people reshape their wardrobes (and improve their self-images) was a lot more fun. Shes been doing it professionally ever since via her Boston-based consulting company, Closet Smarts. Emily and Closet Smarts were recently featured in DailyCandy Boston and CBS News The Womens View.
CHAPTER ONE
the myths we cling to
(Like Static on Nylons)
In this chapter, Id like to introduce you to some of the basic fashion myths that plague most of usconsciously or unconsciouslyand tend to keep us focused and stuck on our bodies as the source of the problem. My philosophy, as someone who has worked with people of all shapes and sizes with their own wardrobes, is that there is a way for every body to look great in clothes; its just a matter of finding the styles and cuts that really work for you. No problem! In this chapter, youll meet ten lovely ladies of all shapes and sizes who will help you visualize certain figure challenges. Throughout the rest of the book, you can follow these gals through our style journey, and they will help show you the dos and donts that most closely mirror your own figure challenges.
Body Shapes: Breaking All the Rules
Let me guess. According to the experts and based on the choices of silhouette youve been given, youre a pear. Am I right? If I had a dime for every pear Ive talked out of her tree, I could retire right now. It seems inevitable with the biologies weve been given that at some point along the path of our lives, things gravitate downward and outward, settling at or around Middle Earth. They hover there, increasing or decreasing an inch or two, but sadly, they slowly and inevitably distort our formerly better-proportioned bodies into Tweedledees and Tweedledums to varying degrees.
But our middle sections are only one small (well) part of our overall silhouettes, and though the pear type may only very basically suggest that our tops are smaller than our middles, does this description really accurately capture the degree of variety that can take place on either side of our girths? Have you ever seen a fashion guide break the pear category into a typology of Bartletts, Boscs, and Anjous? Well, really, if they expect us to follow their golden rules of the fruit, they should be more specific, or at the very least give us a few more options for categorizing ourselves as we set out to readjust our wardrobes to accommodate our fruity centers.
Although plenty of fashion books have cut their teeth on quantifying a specific set of body types that should guide all fashion choicesthe apple, the pear, the athletic build, the hourglass, etc.I have found that bodies rarely fit these norms. Instead, most of us are some combination thereof, and often to such differing degrees that following a specific set of rules that always apply to the shape weve been squeezed into can be misleading and very limiting. Although its reassuring to believe that the fashion industry knows whats out there in terms of our body shapes, and that it in fact designs for, or at the very least knows how to accommodate, these shapes, the reality isnt that simple. What designing for this list of silhouettes really does is to establish norms that we must all approximate.
THE TRUTH ABOUT BODY TYPES
Though I dont plan to spend this book exploding myths, I think there is a part of each of us that already knows this spiel from experience: On a very basic level, we just dont often see ourselves (i.e. our body shapes) represented anywhere in a realistic way where clothing is advertised or pictured.
Where we do see closer approximations of ourselves are in the special sections of fashion exposs, where suddenly the industry decides it has a conscience and maybe it should pretend to address the lions share of real bodies that are actually trying to follow its designs and trends. Sadly, even within these special segments, where the average woman is apparently represented and her figure problems addressed, most of us are left with only a vague idea of where we fit into a continuum that, at best, completely oversimplifies the reality of our many shapes. At worst, this kind of typing, even as it claims to represent us, only sets us up to feel inadequate all over again as we squeeze ourselves into these cookie-cutter silhouettes that dont really describe us individually at all.
Of course, its convenient to use these prototypes: How would anyone, in a three-page fashion spread, truly address the real variety of bodies that populate their readership? But when this limited dogma is used everywhere, in every outlet where women may search to find figure solutions, it gives the impression that these types are indeed real and true, and the reality of their convenience as a shorthand device slips out of our awareness.