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Hidetaka Nishiyama - Karate The Art of Empty-Hand Fighting

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Hidetaka Nishiyama Karate The Art of Empty-Hand Fighting

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Master the techniques and theory of Japanese Karate with this easy-to-follow, illustrated martial arts guide.
Karate: The Art of Empty-Hand Fighting has inspired hundreds of thousands of karateka, and it remains one of the finest texts available on the technique, art, and spirit of karatedo.
This definitive volume is a systematic presentation of the art of traditional Japanese karate. An easily accessible martial arts manual illustrated with more than 1,000 photographs, this comprehensive karate book gives step-by-step explanations and thorough analysis of all the basic movements and techniques of karate.
Topics of Karate the Art of Empty-Hand Fighting include:
  • The history of Karate
  • The theories and principle of Karate
  • The best training and exercise methods
  • Karate techniques like stance, blocking and attacks
  • Defenses against weapons
  • Hidetaka Nishiyama: author's other books


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    APPENDIX
    karate equipment and its use
    punching board The punching board makiwara is a piece of equipment unique to - photo 1
    Picture 2punching board

    The punching board (makiwara) is a piece of equipment unique to karate and is especially essential in toughening the hands and giving training in hand techniques. It consists merely of a straight board with a portion at the top fitted for punching. The board itself is made from a four-by-four seven or eight feet long. The top four feet are beveled down so that the very top is about half an inch thick. In Japan the striking surface of the punching board has traditionally consisted of a bundle of straw with a one-half inch straw rope tightly wound around it at the top part of the board for about one foot. Recently, a piece of sponge rubber two inches thick, four inches wide, and twelve inches long, covered with canvas, has come into wide use.

    how to make and install 1 Dig a hole in the ground three or four feet deep - photo 3
    how to make and install 1 Dig a hole in the ground three or four feet deep - photo 4
    how to make and install 1 Dig a hole in the ground three or four feet deep - photo 5

    how to make and install

    1. Dig a hole in the ground three or four feet deep, plant the unbeveled end of the board in it so that the top reaches a point near the top of the chest, and pack with small and large stones, as shown in the diagram. Concrete will serve the purpose even better. After planting, the top of the board should move five or six inches without exerting too much pressure. It is better to have the board too flexible than not flexible enough.

    2. Attach the straw and straw rope or canvas-covered sponge (with strong, fine twine) near the top of the board so that the center of the striking surface comes to a height even with the solar plexus.

    purpose

    1. A punching board is an excellent way to get the feel of karate techniques applied to an actual target, rather than into the empty air. It gives practice in focusing, muscular control, breath control, etc.

    2. Use of the punching board develops stronger techniques.

    3. It is a convenient way to toughen the skin of the knuckles and other striking points. Because it is difficult to master the technique of focus, i.e., concentration of strength at the moment of impact, without practicing on a punching board, many karate experts feel that the techniques of those who don't use one are bound to lack power.

    how to use

    The punching board is used mainly for practicing hand techniques, although foot techniques also are sometimes practiced on it. Shown here are some typical examples of its use with hand techniques. In all cases, the point of focus is about two inches on the other side of the board when it is stationary. At the point of impact, sharply let out a short breath, breathing in while withdrawing. This gives good training in breath control.

    A. Reverse punch

    This is one of the most basic techniques of karate and must be practiced constantly, both by beginners as well as experts. Unlike the striking techniques, which almost invariably depend on the use of a snapping motion, focusing the punch is not easy to learn merely by practicing it into the empty air. In preparing to punch the board, stand directly in front of it in a forward stance at such a distance that the fist extends about two inches beyond the board when the arm is fully extended. In punching, rotate the hips fully back, but without shifting balance, and extend opposite hand forward; then perform the reverse punch at the board. Take care to strike correctly with the four striking points of the fore-fist. There will be a tendency for the hand to glance off at first, but constant practice will correct this. In punching, if anything the hips should be lowered toward the target, rather than raised. About one hundred punches with each hand is reasonable for one practice session.

    B Back-fist strike Stand in a straddle-leg stance at a 45 angle to the - photo 6

    B. Back-fist strike

    Stand in a straddle-leg stance at a 45 angle to the board. Execute a sideward strike to the board, fully utilizing the snap of the elbow. A variation which makes the blow more effective is to start from a forward stance and then to twist into a straddle-leg stance while striking.

    C Knife-hand strike Assume a forward stance to the side of the board To - photo 7

    C. Knife-hand strike

    Assume a forward stance to the side of the board. To execute either inside or outside strike, twist hips back and then forward. To avoid injury, be sure to hold fingers firmly together.

    D Ridge-hand strike Follow the same stance and procedure as above to execute - photo 8

    D. Ridge-hand strike

    Follow the same stance and procedure as above to execute outside strike.

    E Elbow strike Follow the same stance and procedure as in reverse punch but - photo 9

    E. Elbow strike

    Follow the same stance and procedure as in reverse punch, but closer to the board, to practice forward strike.

    punching and kicking bag There are two sizes of punching bags commonly used in - photo 10
    Picture 11punching and kicking bag

    There are two sizes of punching bags commonly used in karate, one 3 feet long by 1 feet thick, and the other 1 foot long by 6 inches thick. Both consist of leather or rubber waste stuffed tightly into a canvas bag. They should be hung so that the bottom comes about even with the groin. The longer one is best hung by a rope or chain that will enable it to be conveniently raised and lowered. The smaller bag should be hung on a strong rubber band, such as a bicycle tube.

    purpose

    1. The large bag is used mainly for practicing focusing and for strengthening the various kicks. It gives excellent training in perfecting the most effective angle of impact.

    2. The smaller bag is also used for kicking practice. Since it is light and is hung on an elastic band, it will move when struck, giving good practice in timing and in kicking a moving target.

    3. Both bags can also be used for practicing hand techniques, and particularly hand and foot techniques in combination.

    punching ball This consists of a rubber ball about one foot in diameter - photo 12
    Picture 13punching ball

    This consists of a rubber ball about one foot in diameter placed inside a leather bag fastened to the ceiling and floor with strong rubber ropes. The center of the ball should be about shoulder height.

    purpose

    The punching ball is used mainly for practice in timing of hand techniques. It is also useful for kicking practice.

    body stretcher Pieces of equipment similar to this and with the same purpose - photo 14
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