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Winston S. Churchill - My African Journey

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Note Images of the original pages are available through Internet Archive See - photo 1
Note:Images of the original pages are available through Internet Archive. See https://archive.org/details/myafricanjourney00churuoft
Transcriber's Note:
On , "full tale of steamers" should possibly be "full tail of steamers."

MY AFRICAN JOURNEY
Mr. Churchill and the Rhinoceros at Simba.
Frontispiece.
My African Journey
BY
THE RIGHT HON.
WINSTON SPENCER CHURCHILL, M.P.
AUTHOR OF "THE STORY OF THE MALAKAND FIELD FORCE,"
"THE RIVER WAR," "LONDON TO LADYSMITH," "IAN HAMILTON'S MARCH,"
"SAVROLA," "LIFE OF LORD RANDOLPH CHURCHILL"
WITH SIXTY-ONE ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY
THE AUTHOR AND LIEUTENANT-COLONEL GORDON
WILSON, AND THREE MAPS
TORONTO
WILLIAM BRIGGS
1909
Richard Clay & Sons, Limited ,
BREAD STREET HILL, E.C., AND
BUNGAY, SUFFOLK.
PREFACE
In so far as the collection of information is concerned, the advantages of travel may often be over-stated. So much has been written, so many facts are upon record about every country, even the most remote, that a judicious and persevering study of existing materials would no doubt enable a reader to fill himself with knowledge almost to repletion without leaving his chair. But for the formation of opinion, for the stirring and enlivenment of thought, and for the discernment of colour and proportion, the gifts of travel, especially of travel on foot, are priceless. It was with the design and in the hope of securing such prizes, that I undertook last year the pilgrimage of which these pages give account. I cannot tell whether I have succeeded in winning them; and still less whether, if won, they are transferable. I therefore view these letters with a modest eye. They were written mainly in long hot Uganda afternoons, after the day's march was done. The larger portion has already appeared in the Strand Magazine, and what has been added was necessary to complete the story.
They present a continuous narrative of the lighter side of what was to me a very delightful and inspiring journey; and it is in the hope that they may vivify and fortify the interest of the British people in the wonderful estates they have recently acquired in the northeastern quarter of Africa, that I offer them in a connected form to the indulgence of the public.
Winston Spencer Churchill
London, 1908.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
PAGE
THE UGANDA RAILWAY
CHAPTER II
AROUND MOUNT KENYA
CHAPTER III
THE HIGHLANDS OF EAST AFRICA
CHAPTER IV
THE GREAT LAKE
CHAPTER V
THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA
CHAPTER VI
KAMPALA
CHAPTER VII
'ON SAFARI'
CHAPTER VIII
MURCHISON FALLS
CHAPTER IX
HIPPO CAMP
CHAPTER X
DOWN THE WHITE NILE
CHAPTER XI
THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT RAILWAY
ILLUSTRATIONS
To face page
MR. CHURCHILL AND THE RHINOCEROS AT SIMBA
ON THE COW-CATCHER
THE RHINOCEROS AT SIMBA
GUARD OF HONOUR, KING'S AFRICAN RIFLES
BREAKDOWN ON THE WAY TO THIKA CAMP
SHOOTING PARTY AT THIKA CAMP
THE BANDA AT THIKA CAMP
COLONEL WILSON'S LION
"DURBAR" AT KIAMBU
THE RIFT VALLEY FROM THE KIKUYU ESCARPMENT
GOVERNMENT STOCK FARM AT NAIVASHA
THE LAIBON'S WIVES
RAILHEAD AT KISUMU
KAVIRONDO WARRIORS AT KISUMU
NANDI AND KAVIRONDO WARRIORS AT KISUMU
KISUMU
GOVERNMENT HOUSE, ENTEBBE
THE GOVERNOR WITH BAGANDA GROUP
BAGANDA WARRIORS AT KAMPALA
KING DAUDI'S DRUMMERS AT KAMPALA
WATCHING THE WAR-DANCE AT KAMPALA
ON THE WAY TO KAMPALA
ROAD BETWEEN JINJA AND LAKE CHIOGA
WAR DANCE AT KAMPALA"THE BRAVEST MAN IN THE ARMY"
WAR DANCE AT KAMPALA
THE WHITE FATHERS' MISSION AT KAMPALA
CHILDREN AT THE ENGLISH CATHOLIC MISSION, KAMPALA
INTERIOR OF NAMIREMBE CATHEDRAL
THE RIPON FALLS (SOURCE OF THE NILE)
BETWEEN NIMULE AND GONDOKORO
FOREST SCENE NEAR RIPON FALLS
PALM TREE NEAR THE ASUA
BANDA WITH ESCORT OF KING'S AFRICAN RIFLES
AN ENCAMPMENT
LANDING AT MRULI
MURCHISON FALLS
FAJAO, WITH NATIVES ASSEMBLED TO WELCOME US
FLOTILLA AT FAJAO
THE TOP OF THE MURCHISON FALLS
UGANDA SCENERY
THE LANDING-PLACE AT FAJAO
EARLY MORNING ON THE NILE AT FAJAO
FAJAO
APPROACH TO LAKE ALBERT, WITH THE CONGO HILLS IN THE DISTANCE
WADELAI
THE "KENIA," "JAMES MARTIN," AND "GOOD HOPE" NEARING NIMULE
HIPPO CAMP
MR. CHURCHILL ON THE OBSERVATION LADDER AT HIPPO CAMP
BANK OF THE VICTORIA NILE
MR. CHURCHILL AND BURCHELL'S WHITE RHINOCEROS
COLONEL WILSON'S ELEPHANT
THE "KENIA," "JAMES MARTIN," AND "GOOD HOPE" ON THE WHITE NILE
FORDING THE ASUA
THE BELGIAN OFFICIALS AT LADO
GONDOKORO
REVIEW AT KHARTOUM
SOUDAN GOVERNMENT STEAMER "DAL"
A SHELUK AT KODOK (FASHODA)
THE PALACE, KHARTOUM
GEORGE SCRIVINGS
PHILAE
MAPS
EASTERN AFRICA
BRITISH EAST AFRICA
UGANDA
CHAPTER I
THE UGANDA RAILWAY
The aspect of Mombasa as she rises from the sea and clothes herself with form and colour at the swift approach of the ship is alluring and even delicious. But to appreciate all these charms the traveller should come from the North. He should see the hot stones of Malta, baking and glistening on a steel-blue Mediterranean. He should visit the Island of Cyprus before the autumn rains have revived the soil, when the Messaoria Plain is one broad wilderness of dust, when every treebe it only a thorn-bushis an heirloom, and every drop of water is a jewel. He should walk for two hours at midday in the streets of Port Said. He should thread the long red furrow of the Suez Canal, and swelter through the trough of the Red Sea. He should pass a day among the cinders of Aden, and a week among the scorched rocks and stones of Northern Somaliland; and then, after five days of open sea, his eye and mind will be prepared to salute with feelings of grateful delight these shores of vivid and exuberant green. On every side is vegetation, moist, tumultuous, and varied. Great trees, clad in dense foliage, shrouded in creepers, springing from beds of verdure, thrust themselves through the undergrowth; palms laced together by flowering trailers; every kind of tropical plant that lives by rain and sunshine; high waving grass, brilliant patches of purple bougainvillea, and in the midst, dotted about, scarcely keeping their heads above the fertile flood of Nature, the red-roofed houses of the town and port of Mombasa.
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