Marie-Louise B. Nosch - Ancient Textiles: Production, Crafts and Society

Textiles survive most frequently in conditions of extreme dryness, permafrost, waterlogged conditions, in contact with corroding metal objects, or in carbonised form within burnt layers. At the moment they are first discovered, archaeological textiles are exposed to enormous danger due to a sudden change in their immediate microclimate. For this reason, changes in any type of climatic conditions must be avoided as much as possible during excavation. Unnecessary movement or touching is also to be avoided.

The excavation process will include a number of considerations, including the following:

• Textiles should always be supported while lifting , with flat supports that can be slid underneath. These can be strong cardboard or wood covered with aluminium foil to prevent contamination, or thin sheets of rigid plastic such as perspex or heavy-gauge Melinex. Larger textile finds can be stabilised and block lifted using plaster or fibreglass bandages to surround and reinforce the block.
• Ideally the whole textile should be lifted with the surrounding matrix , without changing the position of any fragments. It will be easier to identify features such as folds, seams, buttonholes and other details if the exact position of the textile is maintained. Other vital information may also be present in the surrounding soil (see below).
• Textiles from extremely dry environments should be lifted with the surrounding earth where possible. In some cases, the soil or sand supporting a fragile textile may need to be consolidated (impregnated with an adhesive) in order to lift it intact. A consolidant is injected into the soil matrix only at several points around the specimen, so that it can be lifted as a block. The textile itself should not come into contact with the consolidant (see below). A conservator should be consulted about consolidants that are currently recommended, and the suitability of a particular soil consolidant to the specific conditions at the site.
• Frozen textiles should be lifted within a frozen block and kept frozen until treatment in the laboratory. If necessary, they can be kept deep-frozen in situ using carbon dioxide ice. Do not use hot water to rescue frozen textiles.
• In waterlogged environments , wet and dirty textiles can be difficult to recognise, so be attentive. Wet textiles should be block-lifted within a sediment block where possible, and kept wet. Small sediment blocks can be carefully placed into plastic boxes with a layer of polyethylene foam such as Ethafoam on the bottom, stabilised against slipping, and kept wet by keeping the foam damp. Larger textile finds can be stabilised using plaster or fibreglass bandages to reinforce the block. Non-PVC polyethylene cling film should be placed around the block before the application of the plaster or fibreglass to facilitate excavation of the block in the lab without damaging the textiles. Seal the closed boxes or sediment blocks inside plastic bags in order to avoid moisture loss, and keep wet until further excavation in the laboratory.
• Textiles in contact with metal objects are often firmly attached to the corrosion. Do not attempt to separate textiles and metal objects in the field. Examine the surrounding soil carefully, as soil stains or brown shadows can be evidence for the original position of the textile, and can contain textile information. Document the relationship of the artefacts, and lift the textile together with the metal object and the surrounding soil.
• Carbonised textiles are extremely brittle and will break into innumerable components if touched carelessly. Lift with good support and do not attempt to separate them from the surrounding soil.
• Textiles may be found on human remains in both wet and dry environments. Lifting of the textiles depends on the manner of retrieval of the remains. If the whole body is to be block lifted, excavation of the textiles should be carried out in the laboratory. In extremely arid burial environments, human remains are often disarticulated and cannot be lifted whole, necessitating separate retrieval of the textiles. Thorough in situ documentation is vital, with detailed drawings and photographs. The skeletal material should always be examined for any textile that may be adhering, and its location recorded for the textile specialist and conservator.
• Consolidation (impregnation) of textiles is not recommended unless it is absolutely necessary, as consolidants impair some types of scientific analysis (discussed below). However, some textiles begin to disintegrate on exposure. In such cases it may be necessary to consolidate the textiles immediately in situ if the structure is to be saved. If textiles are fragile enough to require consolidation prior to lifting, a conservator would suggest a consolidant that is appropriate for both the site and the textile, and would advise on an appropriate method of application that will not destroy the textile morphology. The consolidant should remain stable and soluble over the long term, and should have a pH that is compatible with the textile. If a textile must be consolidated, one should always first take a sample of the untreated textile for any future scientific analysis, if it is possible to do so without damaging the rest of the specimen.