Lonely Planet - Lonely Planet Kyoto
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Kyoto
Kyoto is old Japan writ large: atmospheric temples, sublime gardens, traditional teahouses and geisha scurrying to secret liaisons.
This is a city of some 2000 temples and shrines: a city of true masterpieces of religious architecture, such as the splendour of Kinkaku-ji (the famed Golden Pavilion) and the cavernous expanse of Higashi Hongan-ji. Its where robed monks shuffle between temple buildings, prayer chants resonate through stunning Zen gardens, and the faithful meditate on tatami-mat floors. Even as the modern city buzzes and shifts all around, a waft of burning incense, or the sight of a bright vermillion torii gate marking a shrine entrance, are regular reminders that Kyoto remains the spiritual heart of Japan.
Few cities of this size pack such a punch when it comes to their culinary cred, and at its heart is Nishiki Market (Kyotos kitchen). Kyoto is crammed with everything from Michelin-starred restaurants, chic cocktail bars, cool cafes and sushi spots to food halls, izakaya (Japanese pub-eateries), craft-beer bars and old-school noodle joints. Splurge on the impossibly refined cuisine known as kaiseki while gazing over your private garden, taste the most delicate tempura in a traditional building, slurp down steaming bowls of ramen elbow-to-elbow with locals, then slip into a sugar coma from a towering matcha sundae.
While the rest of Japan has adopted modernity with abandon, the old ways are still clinging on in Kyoto. With its roots as the cultural capital of the country, its no surprise that many traditional arts and crafts are kept alive by artisans from generation to generation. Wander the streets downtown, through historic Gion and past machiya (traditional Japanese townhouses) in the Nishijin textile district to find ancient speciality shops from tofu sellers, washi (Japanese handmade paper) and tea merchants, to exquisite lacquerware, handcrafted copper chazutsu (tea canisters) and indigo-dyed noren (hanging curtains).
If you dont know your matcha (powdered green tea) from your manga (Japanese comic), have never slept on a futon or had a bath with naked strangers, then it doesnt matter as this is the place to immerse yourself in the intricacies of Japanese culture. Whether you watch matcha being whisked in a traditional tea ceremony, spend the night in a ryokan, get your gear off and soak in an onsen, join a raucous hanami (cherry-blossom viewing) party or discover the art of Japanese cooking youll come away one step closer to understanding the unique Japanese way of life.
By Kate Morgan, Writer
Having visited Kyoto many times, it still surprises and delights me. No matter how often I hear the nightingale floors squeak beneath my feet at Nij-j, pad barefoot across tatami mats in ryokan, sip matcha in centuries-old tearooms, cycle through Arashiyamas bamboo forest or drink convenience-store beer on the banks of the Kamo-gama, its a city I could never tire of. Yes, its an ancient Japanese woodblock print come to life with its geisha and impossibly pretty cherry-blossom trees, but its also a university town with a youthful feel and modernity breathing down its traditional neck.
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Talk about eye candy: the gold-plated main hall of this immensely popular in northwest Kyoto is probably the most impressive sight in the entire city. The hall rises above its reflecting pond like an apparition and if youre lucky enough to be here on a bright sunny day, you almost need sunglasses to look at it. The surrounding gardens and cosy teahouse Sekka-tei are also worth a visit here. Go early on a weekday morning to avoid the crush of people that descend on the temple each day.
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