Rough Guides - The Rough Guide to Peru

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Contents

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Introduction to

Peru

Trekking through the awe-inspiring Andes to the world-famous Inca citadel of Machu Picchu is the main draw for most travellers to Peru but, truth be told, this takes in only a fraction of the treasures that lie within one of South Americas most diverse countries. Peru is home to a staggering array of landscapes puzzling geoglyphs in the arid plains of Nazca, two of the worlds deepest canyons outside the colonial city of Arequipa, the lush Amazon rainforest in the east and excellent surf in the northwest offering boundless potential for adventure. Perus Andean cultures are some of the most exciting in the Americas, with tucked-away highland towns that explode into colour on market day, and vibrant local fiestas that have been celebrated with unbridled enthusiasm for centuries a heady mix of ancient beliefs with colonial Catholic customs.

Perus immense wealth of sights and experiences has its roots in one of the worlds richest heritages, topped by the Inca Empire and its fabulous archeological gems , not to mention the monumental adobe temples and pre-Inca ruins along the desert coast. While Machu Picchu is undoubtedly one of the worlds most important archeological sites, Peru is home to a host of other riches and important new discoveries are constantly being unearthed.

With Peru boasting access to the highest tropical mountain range in the world as well as one of the best-preserved areas of virgin Amazon rainforest, its wildlife is as diverse as youd expect, and sights such as jaguars slinking through the jungle, caimans sunning themselves on riverbanks and dazzling macaws gathering at Amazon clay-licks are all within the visitors grasp. For those looking for adrenaline-fuelled fun, a host of outdoor activities are on offer, from trekking ancient trails and whitewater rafting to paragliding, bungee-jumping and ziplining above the forest canopy.

Equally, a trip to Peru could focus on more restful pursuits. Widely touted as one of the worlds culinary hotspots , the country and Lima in particular offers a cornucopia of exotic tastes to appeal to curious palates, as well as a laidback, vibrant dining scene, ranging from backstreet cevicheras to gourmet restaurants. And in the big cities, you can expect buzzing nightlife too.

Despite it all, simple, unaffected pleasures remain in place. The countrys prevailing attitude is that there is always enough time for a chat, a ceviche or another drink. Peru is accepting of its visitors its a place where the resourceful and open-minded traveller can break through barriers of class, race and language far more easily than most of its inhabitants can. Even the Amazon jungle region covering nearly two-thirds of the countrys landmass, but home to a mere fraction of its population is accessible for the most part, with countless tour operators or community associations on hand to organize trips to even the furthest-flung corners. Now all you have to do is figure out where to start.

Where to go

Youre most likely to arrive in the buzzing and at least fitfully elegant capital, Lima ; a modern city, it manages effortlessly to blend traditional Peruvian heritage with twenty-first-century glitz. Cusco is perhaps the most obvious place to head from here. A beautiful and bustling colonial city, it was once the ancient heart of the Inca Empire, and is surrounded by some of the most spectacular mountain landscapes and palatial ruins in Peru, and by magnificent hiking country. The world-famous Inca Trail , which culminates at the lofty, mist-shrouded Inca citadel of Machu Picchu , is just one of several equally scenic and challenging treks in this region of Peru alone.

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MIRAFLORES, LIMA

Along the coast , there are more fascinating archeological sites as well as glorious beaches and sparky towns. South of Lima are the bizarre Nazca Lines , which have mystified since their discovery some seventy years ago, as well as the beguiling desert landscapes of the Reserva Nacional Paracas and the wildlife-rich haven of the neighbouring Islas Ballestas . If that all sounds too active, you could always duck away to spend a day knocking back pisco at the many Ica Valley bodegas .

FACT FILE

Potatoes are native to what is today southern Peru they were domesticated here around 7000 to 10,000 years ago. Today there are over 3000 varieties of potato grown in the country.

Peru is home to the largest segment of the Amazon rainforest after Brazil, with over 60 percent of Peruvian territory covered in dense forest.

Guinea pigs ( cuy ) are widely consumed in Peru; it is said approximately 65 million guinea pigs are eaten every year.

The Can de Cotahuasi is one of the worlds deepest canyons , with a depth of over 3500m twice that of the Grand Canyon.

Perus population is an estimated 32 million, almost a third of whom live in Lima, the country's capital and South America's second biggest city.

The Cerro Blanco sand dune is the highest in the world at 2070m above sea level and 1176m from base to summit.

North of Lima lie the great adobe city of Chan Chan and the Valle de las Pirmides . The surfing hangouts of Puerto Chicama and trendy Mncora beach are big draws along this stretch, but almost all of the coastal towns come replete with superb beaches, plentiful nightlife and great food.

For high mountains and long-distance treks, head for the stunning glacial lakes, snowy peaks and little-known ruins of the sierra north of Lima, particularly the ice-capped mountains and their valleys around Huaraz , but also the more gentle hills, attractive villages and ancient sites in the regions of Cajamarca and Chachapoyas . The central sierra is crammed with tradition and glorious colonial architecture, at its peak in Ayacucho and Huancayo ; the region around Tarma is also worth exploring, offering a variety of landscapes, from jungles and caves to waterfalls and stupendous terraced valleys.

If its wildlife youre interested in, theres plenty to see almost everywhere, but the jungle provides startling opportunities for close and exotic encounters. From the comfort of tourist lodges in Iquitos to river excursions around Puerto Maldonado , in the Reserva Nacional Tambopata , the fauna and flora of the worlds largest tropical forest can be experienced first-hand here more easily than in any other Amazon-rim country. Not far from Iquitos, the Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria is a remote and extremely beautiful, though less-visited region; while close to Cusco, just below the cloud forest, the Reserva Bisfera del Manu is another wildlife hotspot.

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