Lonely Planet - Seoul
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- Book:Seoul
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- Publisher:Lonely Planet
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- Year:2019
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Seoul
Fashion- and technology-forward but also deeply traditional, this dynamic city mashes up palaces, temples, cutting-edge design and mountain trails, all to a nonstop K-Pop beat.
Over the last decade Seoul has worked hard to soften its industrial hard edges into an appealing urban ideal of parks, culture and design. Glass, concrete and steel are crafted into natural forms at the spectacular Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park and City Hall. The popularity of the beautifully landscaped parks alongside the central Cheong-gye stream and the Han River has spurred on the creation of more green spaces and cycle routes. Join Seoulites enjoying time out shopping in stylish boutiques and drinking at cool cafes and convivial bars.
Gaze down on this sprawling metropolis of around 10 million people from atop any of Seouls four guardian mountains and youll sense the powerful pungsu-jiri (feng shui) that has long nurtured and protected the city. History clings tenaciously to the Miracle on the Han, a phoenix arisen from the ashes of the Korean War. So while Seoul has its eye clearly on the future, youll also encounter fascinating fragments of the past in World Heritagelisted sites such as Jongmyo shrine, in the alleys between the graceful hanok (traditional wooden homes) in Bukchon, and striding along the magnificent Seoul City Wall.
Whatever you want, at any time of day or night, Seoul can provide. An early-morning temple visit can lead to a palace tour followed by tea-sipping in Bukchon and gallery-hopping in Samcheong-dong. Soju (a vodka-like drink) and snacks in a street tent bar will fuel you for shopping at the buzzing Dongdaemun or Namdaemun night markets, partying in Hongdae or Itaewon, or singing in a self-service karaoke noraebang. Follow this with steaming, soaking and snoozing in a jjimjil-bang (sauna and spa). By the time you look at your watch, it will be dawn again.
Public transport is brilliant, so theres no excuse for not stretching your travel horizons beyond the city limits. The fearsome Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), splitting South from North Korea, exerts a powerful attraction and makes for a compelling day trip. To the west, Incheon is a fascinating port where the modern world came flooding into Korea at the end of the 19th century, and today whose Chinatown and waterfront are still an interesting fusion of people. To the south is Suwon, home to impressive World Heritagelisted fortifications, built by King Jeongjo, that snake 5.7km past majestic gates and pavilions.
By Phillip Tang, Writer
Seoul sparkles with design magic. Im bewitched by the fancy threads of Apgujeong with its angles all in the right place, but the real heart-stealer is the citys knack for fashioning a hanok into a cutting-edge makgeolli hang-out, or a palace into the moonlit dining hall where I feasted on royal cuisine. Ill peer across Gangnams slinky skyscrapers from the quiet of a sky-high temple, or scoff kimchi tacos in green spaces converted from oil tankers and highway overpasses, which might suggest NYC or Tokyo. Yet every temple eave, hotteok and K-Indie tune reminds me, Im in Seoul.
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In a city at the cutting edge of 21st-century technology, where apartment living is the norm, this neighbourhood stands as a testament to an age of craftsmanship when Seoulites lived in one-storey wooden
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