Lonely Planet - Andalucia
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- Book:Andalucia
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- Year:2019
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Andaluca
The scent of orange blossom, the swish of a flamenco dress, the glimpse of a white village perched atop a crag: memories of Andaluca linger.
Immortalised in operas and vividly depicted in 19th-century art and literature, Andaluca often acts as a synonym for Spain as a whole: a sun-dappled, fiesta-loving land of guitar-wielding troubadours, reckless bullfighters, operatic heroines and Roma singers wailing sad laments. While this portrait might be outdated, stereotypical and overly romantic, it does carry an element of truth. Andaluca, despite creeping modernisation, remains a spirited and passionate place where the atmosphere sneaks up and envelops you when you least expect it perhaps as youre crammed into a buzzing tapas bar or lost in the depths of a flamenco performance.
Part of Andalucas appeal springs from its peculiar history. For eight centuries it sat on a volatile frontier between two faiths and ideologies, Christianity and Islam, and underwent a cross-fertilisation that threw up a slew of cultural colossi: ancient mosques transformed into churches; vast palaces replete with stucco work; a cuisine infused with North African spices; hammams and teteras (teahouses) evoking the Moorish lifestyle; and lofty white towns that dominate the craggy landscape, from Granadas tightly knotted Albayzn to the hilltop settlements of Cdiz province.
It takes more than a few golf courses to steamroll Andalucas diverse ecology. Significant stretches of the regions coast remain relatively unblemished, especially on Cdiz Costa de la Luz and Almeras Cabo de Gata. Inland, youll stumble into villages where life barely seems to have changed since playwright Federico Garca Lorca created Bodas de sangre (Blood Wedding). Thirty per cent of Andalucas land is environmentally protected, much of it in easy-to-access parks, and conservation measures are showing dividends. The Iberian lynx is no longer impossibly elusive; the ibex is flourishing; even the enormous lammergeier (bearded vulture) is soaring above Cazorlas mountains.
One of Andalucas most intriguing and mysterious attractions is the notion of duende, the elusive spirit that douses much of Spanish art, especially flamenco. Duende loosely translates as a moment of heightened emotion that takes you out of yourself, experienced during an artistic performance, and it can be soulfully evoked in Andaluca if you mingle in the right places. Seek it out in a Lorca play at a municipal theatre, an organ recital in a Gothic church, the hit-or-miss spontaneity of a flamenco pea (club) or Mlagas remarkable art renaissance.
By Isabella Noble, Writer
I grew up in the whitewashed Mlaga province mountain village of Cmpeta, performing flamenco at local
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