Lonely Planet - Secret City: The Insiders Guide to the Worlds Coolest Neighbourhoods

CONTENTS

Its easy to fall in love with San Francisco. But to understand what makes the city tick, I needed to do a little sleuthing.

The first time I explored this preening peacock of a city, I dutifully toured its signature attractions. I weaved through crowds on the Golden Gate Bridge, I boarded the ferry to Alcatraz, I queued for big-ticket galleries but something was missing. My feet were tired, my wallet was emptying fast, yet I was learning little about why locals love the city by the bay.

Following the advice of San Franciscans, I turned my attention to the citys outlying neighbourhoods. And thats when San Francisco truly revealed its gritty, glittering self. Looking down from Potrero Hill as the late-afternoon sunshine painted the skyline gold, the city started to work its magic. Deep in a bar in industrial neighbourhood Dogpatch, to the maracas sound of cocktail shakers, I no longer felt an outsider but like one of the locals.

Seeking out intriguing neighbourhoods continues to enrich my travels. I fell head over heels with .

Its the joy of exploring neighbourhoods that inspired us to create Secret City, a curious travellers guide to 50 cities around the world. Some are classic destinations like and asked our in-the-know writers to reveal the hidden scoop.

For each of the 50 cities profiled in the book, weve swung the spotlight onto neighbourhoods where you can feel the rhythms of local life. Sometimes the citys most well-trampled streets are only a short distance away but theres a well-concealed treasure: perhaps a blink-and-youll-miss-it cafe in Rio de Janeiros .

Each neighbourhood profile has out-of-the-ordinary recommendations for eating, drinking, partying and delving into local culture. All of them are hand-picked by experts who know these cities inside out, and theyre accompanied by maps to orient you in these exciting districts.

Locals might groan that weve divulged some of their best neighbourhood secrets, but we think youll love our toolkit for travelling deeply.

Happy exploring,

Anita Isalska, Editor

ARTS & CULTURE

MUSIC & FILM

SPORTS & LEISURE

EATING

DRINKING

SHOPPING

Bold and at times abrasive, Marrakesh is a many-faced metropolis where modern Africa dances with historic monuments, ancient crafts and caravanserai traditions.

T he heart and soul of Marrakesh lie in the tangled guts of its medina, an ancient deep-veined city that started life under the Berber Almoravids in 1070. For centuries it prospered as the epicentre of the western Islamic world, plundered and glorified in turn by successive sultans, and later ruled as a French protectorate. Between 2018 and 2019 the souqs, funduqs (ancient inns) and shrines of the medina were scrubbed and restored, making it prettier (and more sanitised) than ever.

The central neighbourhood of Mouassine is riding the winds of change with rooftop cafes and achingly hip boutiques that have one eye on Europe and the other on Africa, all wedged between gritty, working souqs. Travellers seeking a pinch more tranquillity should head south to the Kasbah and Mellah, where Marrakeshs first fortresses were erected and the Saadian Sultan Ahmed al-Mansour entombed his dynasty. Wander on foot to feel the citys full sensory slap.

Approaching the medinas southerly Kasbah and Mellah, the streets widen and storks strut on blushing fortified walls. The Kasbah is Marrakeshs oldest quarter and its cluster of ancient sights the Badi Palace, Bahia Palace and Saadian Tombs bring floods of visitors. Tour groups rarely linger and it remains a mellow neighbourhood, especially when combined with Marrakeshs old Jewish quarter.

Les Jardins de la Medina

One of the medinas largest palm-fringed pools lies behind the deceptively blank facade of Les Jardins de la Medina riad. When the mercury spikes, theres no better place for a swim. Day access packages (Dh400 to Dh650) include lunch by the pool and graceful colonial bar (and yes, it does serve alcohol). 21 Derb Chtouka, Kasbah; www.lesjardinsdelamedina.com.

Caf Clock

This import from Fez is far more than a cafe famed for its camel burgers. Come for its cultural roster supporting local talents: there are jam sessions, tribal beat music from Gnaoua performers, calligraphy classes, cooking workshops and cinema nights. Moroccan storytelling evenings are particularly poignant, striving to record a fading oral history. 224 Derb Chtouka, Kasbah; www.cafeclock.com; 9am-11pm.

Lazama Synagogue

Established in 1492 by Jews expelled from Spain, the Lazama Synagogue is an active place of worship and a museum exploring 2000 years of Jewish heritage in Morocco. It offers a window into the history of Marrakeshs Jewish diaspora (there are only 150 left). Derb Talmud Tora, Mellah; 9am-7pm Sun-Thu, to 6pm Fri; Dh10.

Kaftan Queen

Good-quality, contemporary kaftans are the lifeblood of this hidden, first-floor fashion boutique. Maxi, bejewelled, patterned or plain shoppers can take their time trying them on in sumptuous fitting rooms, paired with pastel babouches (slippers). 1st fl, 186 Al Fatouki (enter from Rue Riad Zitoun el-Kedim); www.facebook.com/Kaftanqueen; 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat.