Rick Steves - Rick Steves Snapshot Basque Country: Spain & France

SNAPSHOT

Basque Country

Spain & France

This Snapshot guide, excerpted from my guidebook on Spain, introduces you to the Basque Country. This is the land where Spain and France meet the Atlanticfilled with people who have their own culture and language, but not their own country. Even without political independence, the Basque culture thrives in both countries. Here you can enjoy the cushy beach resorts of San Sebastin and Biarritz, just as European royalty did a hundred years ago. Or make a pilgrimage to the historic town of Guernica, where horrific bombing during the Spanish Civil War inspired a Picasso masterpiece. Visit Bilbao and Frank Gehrys dazzling temple of modern artthe Guggenheim Bilbao. Run with (or cheer on) the bulls in Pamplona. Across the border in France, linger in Bayonne, with its lively old town and impressive Museum of Basque Culture, and then head for the mellow port town of St-Jean-de-Luz. In the village of St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, watch pilgrims begin their Camino journey in the foothills of the Pyrenees. On both sides of the border, youll see why the independent Basques have clung tightly to their heritage.

To help you have the best trip possible, Ive included the following topics in this book:

Planning Your Time, with advice on how to make the most of your limited time

Orientation, including tourist information offices (abbreviated as TI), tips on public transportation, local tour options, and helpful hints

Sights, with ratings and strategies for meaningful and efficient visits

Sleeping and Eating, with good-value recommendations in every price range

Connections, with tips on trains, buses, and driving

Practicalities, near the end of this book, has information on money, staying connected, hotel reservations, transportation, and other helpful hints, plus Spanish and French survival phrases.

To travel smartly, read this little book in its entirety before you go. Its my hope that this guide will make your trip more meaningful and rewarding. Traveling like a temporary local, youll get the absolute most out of every mile, minute, and dollar.

Buen viaje and bon voyage! Happy travels!

Euskal Herria

Straddling two nations on the Atlantic Coaststretching about 100 miles from Bilbao, Spain, north to Bayonne, Francelies the ancient, free-spirited land of the Basques. The Basque Country is famous for its beaches, culinary scene, and scintillating modern architecture...and for its feisty, industrious natives. Its also simply beautiful: Bold stone houses and bright white chalet-style homes with deep-red and green shutters scatter across lush, rolling hills; the Pyrenees Mountains soar high above the Atlantic; and surfers and sardines share the waves.

Insulated from mainstream Europe for much of their history, the plucky Basques have wanted to be left alone for more than 7,000 years. An easily crossed border separates the French Pays Basque from the Spanish Pas Vasco, allowing you to sample both sides from a single base (in Spain, I prefer fun-loving San Sebastin; in France, I hang my beret in cozy St-Jean-de-Luz).

Much unites the Spanish and French Basque regions: They share a cuisine, Union Jack-style flag (green, red, and white), and common language (Euskara), spoken by about a half-million people. (Virtually everyone also speaks Spanish and/or French.) And both have been integrated by their respective nations, sometimes forcibly. The French Revolution quelled French Basque ideas of independence; 130 years later, Spains fascist dictator, Generalsimo Francisco Franco, attempted to tame his own separatist-minded Basques.

But over the past few generations, things have started looking up. The long-suppressed Euskara language is enjoying a resurgence. And, as the European Union celebrates ethnic regions rather than nations, the Spanish and French Basques are feeling more united. This heavily industrialized region is experiencing a striking 21st-century renaissance. In Spain, the dazzling architecture of the Guggenheim Bilbao modern-art museum and the glittering resort of San Sebastin are drawing enthusiastic crowds. And, in France, long-ignored cities such as Bayonne and the surfing mecca of Biarritz are being revitalized. At the same time, traditional small townslike Spains Lekeitio and Frances St-Jean-de-Luz and nearby mountain villagesare also thriving, making the entire region colorful, fun, welcoming...and unmistakably Basque.

Basque Country at a Glance

(Spain) Relaxing upscale city with beachfront promenade wrapped around chic shopping neighborhood and tasty tapas bars.

(Spain) Revitalized regional capital with architectural gemGuggenheim Bilbaoand atmospheric old town.

(France) Sleepy seaside retreat in the French Pays Basque that serves as home base for countryside exploration.

(Spain) Village at the heart of Basque culture that was devastated by bombs during the Spanish Civil Warlater immortalized by a Picasso masterpiece.

(France) Urban French scene with a Basque twist, home to impressive cultural museum, scenic ramparts, and lots of ham.

(France) Beach resort known for its mix of international glitz and surfer dudes.

One day is enough for a quick sample of the Basque Country, but two or three days lets you breathe deep and hold it in. Where you go depends on your interests: Spain or France? Cities (such as Bilbao and Bayonne) or resorts (such as San Sebastin and St-Jean-de-Luz)?