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Judith Caesar - Crossing Borders: An American Woman in the Middle East (Contemporary Issues in the Middle East)

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During the 1980s, Judith Caesar taught literature in Saudi Arabia and Egypt. Her aptly titled book offers one womans view of several political powder kegs that didnt make front page news and of the clash between Western and Middle Eastern customs. An open-minded nature and curiosity about the place of women in cultures that seem wildly restrictive to many Westerners helps Caesar deconstruct stereotypes on both sides of the border. The American television show Dallas, she notes, now in perpetual rerun in many countries, has become a gold mine of misinformation on Western women. Likewise, our squeamishness about arranged marriage belies some of the inside story shared by her students. One plans to land a good temper man by asking a suitors sister to reveal his true temperament. And if he doesnt have a sister? Then dont marry him, comes the swift reply. He has never learned about women.

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Page iii
Crossing Borders
An American Woman in the Middle East
Judith Caesar
Page iv Copyright 1997 by Syracuse University Press Syracuse New York - photo 2
Page iv
Copyright 1997 by Syracuse University Press
Syracuse, New York 13244-5160
All Rights Reserved
First Paperback Edition 1999
99 00 01 02 03 04 6 5 4 3 2 1
This book is part of the Mohamed El-Hindi Series on Arab Culture and Islamic Civilization and is published with the assistance of a grant from the M.E.H. Foundation.
The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information SciencesPermanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI Z39.48-1984. Picture 3
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Caesar, Judith.
Crossing borders : an American woman in the Middle East / Judith
Caesar.1st ed.
p. cm.(Contemporary issues in the Middle East)
ISBN 0-8156-2735-1 (alk. paper)ISBN 0-8156-2859-4 (pbk. : alk.paper)
1. Caesar, Judith. 2. AmericansSaudi ArabiaBiography.
3. AmericansEgyptBiography. 4. TeachersSaudi Arabia
Biography. 5. TeachersEgyptBiography. 6. Saudi ArabiaSocial
life and customs 7. EgyptSocial life and customs. 8. East and
West. I. Title. II. Series.
CT275.C15A3 1997
956'.00413dc21 97-3686
Manufactured in the United States of America
Page v
CONTENTS
Acknowledgments
vii
Saudi Arabia: 19811983
1. Getting Lost, Getting Unlost
3
2. Souk
10
3. All the News That's Fit to Print
16
4. Veils Beyond Veils
25
5. Borderline Women
31
6. Home
44
Egypt: 19851986
7. Cairo
51
8. Official Egyptians
56
9. Class Wars
60
10. Conversations with Adla
65
11. Going Down to Upper Egypt
78
12. Escaping the Tribe
87
13. Twain on the Nile
100
14. Misreadings
111

Page vi
Saudi Arabia: 19871990
15. Changes
123
16. Lies and Libraries
126
17. Maids and Slaves
135
18. Outside and Inside
144
19. Passage
156
20. Sunset Cloud
168

Page vii
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I wish first to thank my husband, Mamoun Fandy, for all his help, support, and advice and, second, to thank Dr. Michael Beard, of the University of North Dakota, for reading and commenting on the manuscript so insightfully. But most of all, I want to thank my colleagues, friends, and students in Saudi Arabia and Egypt, who helped me to understand both literature and the world better. I have changed their names and the details of their lives to protect their privacy, but they know who they are, and I thank them.
Page viii
Judith Caesar was born and raised in western Pennsylvania and received a Ph.D. in American literature from Case Western Reserve University. She taught for five years in Saudi Arabia and was a Senior Fulbright Lecturer in American literature in Egypt. Her articles and book reviews about the Middle East have appeared in the Christian Science Monitor, The Nation, the New York Times, the Washington Post, The Progressive, and the Philadelphia Inquirer. She is also a short story writer, and her fiction has appeared in The Antioch Review, Dalhousie Review, Kansas Quarterly, Wascana Review, and The North American Review. She currently lives in Arlington, Virginia, with her husband, Mamoun Fandy.
Page 1
SAUDI ARABIA 19811983
Page 3
1
Getting Lost, Getting Unlost
Living in another country is like being lost in a strange city. All of the signposts are in a language you can't read. They may even be turned around so the arrows point in the wrong direction. The map issued to you by your society doesn't correspond to where you are. You, a normal, competent adult, are suddenly a child again and no matter what your initial resolve, you begin to resent the culture you have voluntarily come to for making you feel that way.
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