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Errett Benjamin - Elements of taste: understanding what we like and why

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Errett Benjamin Elements of taste: understanding what we like and why
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From My Little Pony to the Sex Pistols: An engaging exploration of why we love what we love. Katy Perry. Wes Anderson. Coldplay. Star Wars. Hamilton. Gilmore Girls. We all have our most and least favorite things. But why? In this smart, funny, and well-researched book, Benjamin Errett brings together the latest findings from the worlds of psychology, criticism, neuroscience, market research, and more to examine what taste really means--and what it can teach us about ourselves. Covering kitsch, nostalgia, snobbery, bad taste, George Michael, and what it means to be basic, this is the ultimate read for anyone who devours popular and not-so-popular culture--;Aperitif : Ketchup Is the perfect food -- 1. Setting the table: how all taste comes back to the tongue : What sort of music do you like? And how useless is that question? ; Embodied cognition, or why warm rooms are filled with warm people ; Are you ready to order? -- Palate cleanser : The ultimate taste test -- 2. Sweet: the taste of innocence : Kawaii: the sweet society ; Tasting note: Coldplay ; Cozies: murder without death -- Bronies: finding sweet solace ; Tasting note: Friends -- Beanie babies: cultural sugar highs ; Sweet sounds ; Tasting note: The notebook ; Sweet smarts -- Palate cleanser : A brief and painless history of taste -- 3. Sour: the taste of rebellion : Sloche: adolescence on ice ; Tasting note: Mad magazine ; The last action hero ; Tasting note: Indiana Jones ; Sweet and sour: Marvels magic formula ; Tasting note: Blarping ; Sour and salty: the taste of punk -- Palate cleanser : The wisdom and foolishness of crowds -- 4. Salty: the taste of experience : Salty postcards and George Orwell ; Tasting note: True detective ; Salty superheroes ; Tasting note: Drake and the Weeknd ; Disco won ; Tasting note: Trey Parker and Matt Stone -- Salty-sweet: so wrong but so right -- Palate cleanser : The impossibility of bad taste -- 5. Bitter: the taste of repulsion : Coffee, beer, and cults of bitterness ; Tasting note: Tim and Eric ; Unwatchable films ; Tasting note: Kanye West ; When bitter is better ; Tasting note: Futurist cooking ; Mr. Difficult ; Bitter art -- Palate cleanser : The myth of supertasters -- 6. Umami: the indescribable taste : Oddly satisfying Norwegians: part I: Karl Ove Knausgaard ; Tasting note: Massively multiplayer online role-playing games ; Oddly satisfying Norwegians: part II: Slow TV ; Tasting note: John Hodgman ; Martin Parr and the mundane ; Tasting note: Gilmore girls ; The interesting secret of the Dull Mens Club ; A job you cant lose -- Palate cleanser : Aging tastefully -- 7. Harmony: how to put it all together : Harmony in the kitchen: building a balanced dish ; A tasting menu for the connoisseur ; Harmony in the culture: building a balanced artwork ; A tasting menu for the nostalgic ; Everyones a curator: planning your cultural meal ; A tasting menu for the dabbler ; Anyones a curator: the problem of too many cooks ; A tasting menu for the adventurer ; Someones a curator: the genius of Diana Vreeland ; A tasting menu for the minimalist ; Somethings a curator: the limits of technology ; A tasting menu for the enthusiast ; Youre the curator: lets do this.

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An imprint of Penguin Random House LLC 375 Hudson Street New York New York - photo 1
An imprint of Penguin Random House LLC 375 Hudson Street New York New York - photo 2

An imprint of Penguin Random House LLC 375 Hudson Street New York New York - photo 3

An imprint of Penguin Random House LLC

375 Hudson Street

New York, New York 10014

Copyright 2017 by Benjamin Errett

Penguin supports copyright. Copyright fuels creativity, encourages diverse voices, promotes free speech, and creates a vibrant culture. Thank you for buying an authorized edition of this book and for complying with copyright laws by not reproducing, scanning, or distributing any part of it in any form without permission. You are supporting writers and allowing Penguin to continue to publish books for every reader.

Illustrations Sarah Lazarovic

Tarcher and Perigee are registered trademarks, and the colophon is a trademark of Penguin Random House LLC.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Errett, Benjamin, 1978 author.

Title: Elements of taste : understanding what we like and why / Benjamin Errett.

Description: New York, NY : TarcherPerigee, [2017] | Includes bibliographical

references and index.

Identifiers: LCCN 2017020329 (print) | LCCN 2017027224 (ebook) | ISBN 9780399183454 | ISBN 9780399183447 (alk. paper)

Subjects: LCSH: Popular culture. | Aesthetics. | Taste. | Civilization,

Modern21st century.

Classification: LCC HM621 (ebook) | LCC HM621 E749 2017 (print) | DDC 306dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2017020329

While the author has made every effort to provide accurate telephone numbers, Internet addresses, and other contact information at the time of publication, neither the publisher nor the author assumes any responsibility for errors or for changes that occur after publication. Further, the publisher does not have any control over and does not assume any responsibility for author or third-party Web sites or their content.

Cover design: Ben Wiseman

Version_1

For Sarah, Plum, and Teddy

CONTENTS

Nothing classifies somebody more than the way he or she classifies.

PIERRE BOURDIEU

Aperitif

Ketchup Is the Perfect Food

N ot nutritionally, of course. A steady diet of nothing but red sauce would destroy you in a matter of months. But when it comes to taste, very few foods hit all the notes the way ketchup does.

Let Malcolm Gladwell explain: The taste of Heinzs ketchup began at the tip of the tongue, where our receptors for sweet and salty first appear, moved along the sides, where sour notes seem the strongest, then hit the back of the tongue, for umami and bitter, in one long crescendo.

This was in his 2004 New Yorker story on why Heinz ketchup has proven so difficult for competitors to challenge. The king of condiments satisfies tongues on a primal level, he concludes, coming as close to being all things to all people as is possible.

It does this through amplitude, the word sensory experts use to describe flavors that are well blended and balanced. Its not just that all the tastes are there; its that theyre playing together like an all-star team.

If this can be done in the world of food, can it be replicated in other arenas? Is there a ketchup of music, of literature, of painting, of poetry?

This book says yes there is cultural ketchup There is Lin-Manuel Mirandas - photo 4

This book says yes, there is cultural ketchup. There is Lin-Manuel Mirandas Broadway musical Hamilton. There is the original Star Wars trilogy. There is The Great Gatsby. There is Romeo and Juliet. There is George Gershwins Summertime. And there are many more.

What makes these works stand out? Theyre popular and theyre critically acclaimed, but thats not how ketchup became ketchup. It was when the key elementsred ripe tomatoes and more vinegar than seemed prudentwere finally mixed in perfect harmony. The ketchup secret was in the ingredients. To understand cultural ketchup, we have to look at the recipe. How do we get to the sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami of culture? We define the Elements of Taste.

When we do this, we discover not only the recipe for cultural ketchup, but also the cultural equivalents of every other taste: miso soup, Sour Patch Kids, espresso, kelp, gelato, pork chops, kumquats, ice cream. And from there, we can examine our entertainment diets from a new perspective, learning new ways to identify and satisfy cravings.

Is there a ketchup of music, of literature, of painting, of poetry?

Not everyone likes Star Wars. Some prefer to dip their fries in mayonnaise. To those people we say, dip away. This book wont tell you what to like. No book, algorithm, or person can reliably do that, and frankly its presumptuous to even try. Instead, it aims to help you think fondly about what you already loveand then offers a new framework to consider why you feel that way. And once you get an inkling of the reasons behind your passions, you can explore a new universe of songs, books, shows, and movies worthy of your love. Lets begin by turning on the radio.

1
Setting the Table : How All Taste Comes Back to the Tongue
What Sort of Music Do You Like? And How Useless Is That Question?

I ts a first-date icebreaker that sounds like something a computer would ask. Instead of getting at your innate attraction to harmony, it focuses on outdated categories. No one lingers in the car after pulling into the driveway because they need to finish a genre of music. Its just not what moves us.

Or as Shirley Bassey and the Propellerheads put it in the song History Repeating: Some people wont dance if they dont know whos singing. Why ask your head? Its your hips that are swinging.

So how do you find out what makes your hips swing?

This was a professional dilemma for David Greenberg, a psychology researcher at the University of Cambridge who set out to determine how music intersects with personality and thinking. To do so, he and his colleagues had to first figure out what sort of music people likeand how to ask them in a way that might actually get at the truth.

The issue with genre-based methods is that theyre based on peoples understanding of genres, he explains. Genres are multifaceted and broad. In the rock genre alone, you have Metallica, Joni Mitchell, Radiohead, Coldplay, and Rage Against the Machine. So someone could say, Hey, I really like rock music, but thats not giving you too much information.

Not to mention that just about every artist of note working today crosses genres in some form or another. Taylor Swift went from country to pop; Kanye West from hip-hop to electronica; Weird Al Yankovic from polka to rock to rap to polka. Each of these musicians is a genre of their own, and if you like Taylor Swift, youll likely follow her into whatever genre she tries next.

And then theres what we can call the Sloan effect, for the Canadian bands song Coax Me and its memorable lyric Its not the band I hate, its their fans. No matter how much you love blissing out to New Age music, you might not want to be a Person Who Loves Blissing Out to New Age Music. And what you sing in the shower may not be what you say to a Cambridge researcher.

And finally, music is everywhere. When your local news station transitions from sports to weather with a dubstep beat, you may find yourself humming along. SUV commercials are used to debut new tracks by respectable bands. Regular visits to the grocery store expose you to Adeles complete back catalog. Even if you never seek out a song, you may find that your musical preferences are much more diverse than you expected them to be.

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