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Jeff Counts - The Paddlers Guide to Michigan

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Jeff Counts The Paddlers Guide to Michigan
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A travel guide for the paddling-inclined.

The Paddlers Guide to Michigan takes users to the best quiet waters in the Great Lakes state, including rivers, inland lakes, and the Great Lakes. The guide is full of helpful suggestions for how to have the best paddling trips, even at the most popular destinations. Just because a river can be paddled, it doesnt mean the experience will be a good one, so outdoorsman and journalist Jeff Counts has researched and paddled all these waters to bring you tips and details to make your outings as enjoyable as possible. He offers comprehensive information to help those who own kayaks arrange their own trips as well as info for the more casual kayaker who wishes to work with outfitters.

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The Paddlers Guide to Michigan
The Paddlers Guide to Michigan
Jeff Counts

First Edition

Picture 1

T HE C OUNTRYMAN P RESS

W OODSTOCK , V ERMONT

With time, access points may changeand road numbers, signs, and landmarks referred to in this book may be altered. If you find that such changes have occurred near the streams described in this book, please let the author and publisher know, so that corrections may be made in future editions. Other comments and suggestions are also welcome.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data has been applied for The Paddlers Guide to Michigan
ISBN: 978-1-58157-899-7

Copyright 2011 by Jeff Counts
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means including information storage and retrieval systems without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer, who may quote brief passages.

Interior photographs by the author unless otherwise specified
Maps by Paul Woodward The Countryman Press

Published by The Countryman Press, P.O. Box 748, Woodstock, VT 05091

Distributed by W. W. Norton & Company, Inc., 500 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10110

Contents
Introduction

M OST PADDLING GUIDES do little more than dump paddlers in a river or lake and tell them where to get out. This guide does more. It gives readers the experience of being on the water and offers paddling times, along with offering opinionated suggestions on where to stay and eat.

This guide covers the recreational paddlers lifestyle by providing information on how to best see Michigans more than 3,000 miles of Great Lakes coastline, inland lakes, and thousands of miles of rivers. It takes recreational paddlers to the best places, but even extreme sports folks may find new waters in this guide.

Ive divided the guide into geographical sections so paddlers can see all the paddling opportunities available in a region at a glance to help better plan trips. Ive included camping spots on lakes or rivers that will appeal to paddlers.

If theres any state best seen from a canoe or kayak, its Michigan. Its history and geography are defined by water. The first explorers were French Canadian fur trappers and priests who made the long trek from Montreal in canoes. The states two peninsulas were separated by the lakes until joined by the Mackinac Bridge about 50 years ago.

Launching a boat Where do you start You can put a canoe or kayak in almost - photo 2

Launching a boat

Where do you start? You can put a canoe or kayak in almost anywhere and have a decent time. This guide takes paddlers to the best water with the best scenery. Ive included paddling itineraries for those planning trips. These are designed to give paddlers with limited time an overall view of a region and the diverse waters that can be found.

As the author of Michigan: An Explorers Guide, Ive designed this paddling book to work hand-in-glove with the Michigan guide and with Trout Streams of Michigan, another Countryman Press book.

The Countryman Press has a tradition of allowing its authors to be honest, and I have kept up that mantle of responsibility. The material put out by state Web sites and chambers of commerce makes things look rosy all the time. They arent. From more than 30 years as a paddler and fly angler in Michigan, I know the bug season and the weatherand have striven to put guide users on the water at the best possible times.

This guide introduces you to a network of paddling guides, fly-fishing shop owners, and others who know Michigans waters. Some are trusted friends; others have long-held reputations for guiding and outfitting paddlers. Ive included telephone numbers and Web sites, please feel free to contact them.

The times are changing in the kayaking world, and Ive reflected that in this guide. There are more outfitters these dayssome offering adventure trips to Isle Royale and the Apostle Islands, and others who offer wine tours and food tours in the Grand Traverse region. Theres also the Antrim County Chain of Lakes tour that takes paddlers to B&Bs and upscale restaurants along the way.

This guide is Internet savvy and is the only paddling guide to Michigan that lists outfitters, canoe/kayak liveries, and government agencies that maintain Web sites with river and lake information. If you have a question that the book doesnt answer, check the Web sites listed. And although this isnt a technical book, Ive included tips about gear, bug repellent, a discussion about canoes versus kayaks, and river ethics.

Unfortunately, a few of the states rivers receive the most paddling traffic, and this book is aimed at helping paddlers find quieter waters. These rivers often dont have canoe liveries, but Ive done my best to find vehicle spotting services (services that pick up and drop off your vehicle where youre going to or getting out of the river) in the more remote areas. A stop at a local gas station often yields information about a reliable person who can spot your vehicle.

Ive also adjusted many of the paddling times in this guide, using higher numbers than usually given. This is based on my experience with them, which has been frustrating at times. Most paddling times used by government agencies, outfitters, and canoe/kayak liveries are based on how long it takes if youre doing nothing but paddling. That tends to push paddlers to be in a hurrywhich is what liveries want you to do, so their shuttles can run efficiently. Youre out there to have a good time and enjoy the scenery or the water, so there shouldnt be any rush. Since I often fish when I paddle, I just about double my time. My time estimates build in some time for sightseeing and taking breaks, so dont be surprised that you get to a place earlier than expectedespecially if youre a hard-core paddler.

As for time on the water, Id plan four-hour trips. For recreational paddlers thats about enough time in a canoe or kayak for one day. Ive gone longermuch longerand regretted it the next day.

In the back of the guide, theres a section called Rivers Noted. These are waters that can be paddled, but which I couldnt recommend to recreational paddlers either because of their difficulty or simply because they arent very scenic. Environmental factors have also been taken into consideration. Michigan is a very industrialized state and I dont want to put you on contaminated waters.

Ive also included a reading list of books that relate to Michigan paddling. Some are technical, others historic, and others are nature essays which enhance the outdoor experience.

This guide will help get you on a river or lake, and thats the best way to see Michigan.

There are many strokes during a trip How to Use This Book T HERES A SHORT - photo 3

There are many strokes during a trip

How to Use This Book

T HERES A SHORT DESCRIPTION of what waters there are at the beginning of each geographic section, along with a suggested paddling itinerary thats intended to show paddlers the various opportunities. When called for, there is a summary at the top of each chapter on a body of water thats designed to help the paddler make a quick decision as to whether they want to try that river or lake.

At the end of each geographic section, Ive included suggestions on lodging and eating out that I think will appeal to paddlers. If youre looking for more extensive listings, please pick up my other Countryman Press book, Michigan: An Explorers Guide.

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