Rebecca Priestley - Fifteen Million Years in Antarctica
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Rebecca Priestley longs to be in Antarctica. But it is also the last place on Earth she wants to go. In 2011 Priestley visits the wide white continent for the first time, on a trip that coincides with the centenary of Robert Falcon Scotts fateful trek to the South Pole. For Priestley, 2011 is the fulfilment of a dream that took root in a childhood full of books, art and science and grew stronger during her time as a geology student in the 1980s. She is to travel south twice more, spending time with Antarctic scientists - including paleo-climatologists, biologists, geologists, glaciologists - exploring the landscape, marvelling at wildlife from orca to tardigrades, and occasionally getting very cold. A constant companion for Priestley is her anxiety - both the kind that is brought on by flying to the bottom of the world in a military aeroplane; and the kind that clouds our thoughts of how our world will be for our children. Writing against the backdrop of Trumps America, extreme weather events, and scientists projections for Earths climate, she grapples with the truths we need to tell ourselves as we stand on a tightrope between hope for the planet, and catastrophic change. Fifteen Million Years in Antarctica offers a deeply personal tour of a place in which a person can feel like an outsider in more ways than one. With generosity and candour, Priestley reflects on what Antarctica can tell us about Earths future and asks: do people even belong in this fragile, otherworldly place?
Rebecca Priestley: author's other books
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Rebecca Priestley
Herbert Ingram Priestley
Mark Priestley
Marc ’Elvis’ Priestley
Vincent Brome
Daniel Priestley
Chris Priestley
Chris Priestley
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VICTORIA UNIVERSITY PRESS
Victoria University of Wellington
PO Box 600 Wellington
vup.victoria.ac.nz
Copyright Rebecca Priestley 2019
First published 2019
This book is copyright. Apart from any fair dealing for the purpose of private study, research, criticism or review, as permitted under the Copyright Act, no part may be reproduced by any process without the permission of the publishers.
The moral rights of the authors have been asserted.
A catalogue record is available from the National Library of New Zealand
ISBN 9781776562244 (print)
ISBN 9781776562633 (EPUB)
ISBN 9781776562640 (Kindle)
Published with the support of a grant from
Ebook conversion 2019 by meBooks
for my childrenPippi, Hazel and Huck
Betwixt ice-box and berg, daily melt and
cracked, frozen sea, we surface
each morning; we come around
as by Antarctic Circumpolar Current
to whatever fresh predicament
might befall
this planet of our undreaming
and, hopefully, not our undoingsuch
matters as tumble or fall
from book or polar
shelf. Such things as are ours
not to know, Rebecca,
our planet
out on its furthest, frozen limb
to see our crystalline faces in it, steady
ourselves upon it and
in these days of thinning
polar ice, not fall through.
Gregory OBrien, from The Frozen Pages
Contents
In this summer of constant morning,
we are braver than science.
Alice Miller, Antarctica II
On 31/10/2011, at 3:14 PM, Matt Vance wrote:
Rebecca and Alice,
An itinerary for you.
The basic intention is to give you background and experiences that can inform your own research. While all of this is going on you will be able to rub shoulders with the scientists working in these environments as they come and go through Scott Base.
It is not uncommon to change tack on a trip like this and discover things way more fascinating than you envisaged. For that reason I tend to plan day by day on the ice so that we can accommodate any growing fascinations!
We will look after you from wheels up in Christchurch to wheels down 8 days later.
It is my job to help you while you are there... any questions or problems please let me know.
Regards
Matt
Matt
P.S. I traditionally take folk on a pub crawl of McMurdo, more for cultural revelation than any alcoholic motives. The catch is they only accept cash at McMurdo so be sure to bring some US$. On our side of the hill we have the convenience of EftPOS and RSA prices at the bar!
Visit to Scott Base, Antarctica
Schedule of events (times and events are subject to change)
30 Nov8 Dec 2011
Event K240
Antarctica New Zealand Media Programme
Day one: Arrival
It was always going to take a certain amount of denial, medication and courage to get onto a giant cargo plane and fly to the bottom of the planet. I had taken a chill pillDiazepamwhich was just as well, because the lieutenant giving the safety briefing was doing his best to work me into a state.
I dont want to go to Antarctica tomorrow, I had written on my blog the day before. Im a nervous flyer. And a mother to three young children. And the strawberries were ripening in my garden at home. What about the carbon miles? How could I be flying to Antarctica to write about climate change research?
But going to Antarctica was the fulfilment of a long-held dream. I was excited, over-stimulated. There was too much to process; I felt like Id short-circuited.
After a fitful night in a Christchurch hotel, I sat on a plastic chair in a large room with the other travellers on that days flight to Antarctica. The lieutenant stood aside as a video started playing at the front. As well as telling us we were travelling to one of the most remote and awe-inspiring locations on Earth, the narrator reminded us that no one controls the weather in Antarctica and its storms are legendary... sunburn is not a life-threatening condition, but on the ice it can be a brutal experience... fatigue from working too hard or playing too hard is another danger on the ice. Then, with mournful violin music behind the narration, we were warned, Its not uncommon to experience a sense of loneliness or disorientation in your first few days. We were told not to push it, and were promised unforgettable rewards. You are about to embark on a journey of a lifetime. Have a good flight and well see you on the ice.
Our visit coincided with the centenary of Robert Falcon Scotts trek to the South Pole, the visit on which he and four men reached the Pole, after the Norwegian Roald Amundsen, and died on the return journey. It had taken Scott months to sail from the UK to Antarctica, and on the final leg, between New Zealand and Cape Evans, his reinforced, wooden, ex-whaling ship Terra Nova endured a fierce Southern Ocean storm followed by 20 days stuck in the pack ice. For me, Antarctica was a five-hour flight from Christchurch aboard an enormous US Air Force C-17 Globemaster.
I was travelling with Alice at the invitation of Antarctica New Zealand, on their 2011 media programme. We had met the previous afternoon, when we had to report at 1430 hourswe were on US military timeto a hard-case, smiling Kiwi called Woody. His task was to kit us each out with layers of thermals, merino and fleece topped with a selection of orange and black nylon jackets. Alice and I tried on our gear behind a curtain, emerging to parade our new outfits and take photos of each other. Our kit was completed by two pairs of boots, a pair of goggles, a two-litre drink bottle, and a female urination devicea FUD, or the Sheweein case we wanted to learn to undo just one zip and pee standing up. I had asked two female friends who had been to Antarctica about the Shewee. Kim said it was great, she used it all the time, and the key was to wait until you really, really, really needed to go. Veronika said it wasnt that cold anyway, and she only used hers once. Mostly I was worried about using it the first time. Did it come with instructions? What if I did it wrong?
We had packed most of our gear into provided stuff bags, but kept one set of clothing, including the giant boots, jackets and gloves that made up our Extreme Cold Weather gear, aside to wear on the plane.
I had wanted to go to Antarctica since I was a geology student in the 1980s. Somehow, in all my imaginings of going there, Id never really thought much about the temperature. Putting on all those layers of clothingreally uncomfortable in the 18C heatbrought it home that it was kind of cold down there.
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