Introduction :
Alaska & Points North
Alaska is all about the landscape: massive glaciers slithering down slopes that open into the expansive valleys where the buffalo and the caribou and the musk ox roam. A cinnamon-coloured grizzly teeters knee deep in foaming rapids to bat a leaping salmon into his bone-crunching jaws.
The ice fields of Prince William Sound calve icebergs as big as apartment buildings while sea otters play chicken in the chop beneath. Narrow gauge railroads reach for the sky, the Prudhoe Bay oilfields pump black gold through 24-hour nights while Klondike fever rolls out eccentric personalities still living the dream.
Evocative names like Denali and the Arctic Circle, Aurora Borealis and the Iditarod charge our batteries for adventure. We dream about the big trip, the one well do someday. When we point the camper north for Alaska.
Quit dreaming. Alaska and points north are now easy and accessible. Long gone are the sharp-shale roads that shredded tires. There are campgrounds and hotels and big box chains with competitive prices. Which is not to say it isnt an adventure.
We spent six weeks through July and August traveling all the legendary roads of the north in our camperized van. In the pages that follow I recount our experience, for better or worse. Always some of both when we travel but the worse always make the best stories.
Whether your perfect adventure is a fly-in tour, a cruise up the Inside Passage or a full-on self-guided drive through the wilderness, Alaska & Points North will give you lots to ponder as you start planning. The book is organized so that the right-side page tells the story while the left provides information like details, maps and contacts.
Who are we?
I am hopelessly addicted to travel shows but confess to being weary of lithe young hosts bounding from cliff to cliff on their twenty-something knees. We are living proof that life after 50 just gets better and better!
We met soon after Steve returned from a two- year trek around the world. I had been working and traveling through the UK. If not love at first sight, it was fascination at first chat. We were the only two people in the room who got each other. We married and raised kids and hauled them around North America with an old tent trailer Steve kept patching together.
This shared passion for seeing whats around the next corner is an itch weve now scratched together on every continent of the world but Antarctica.
We travel by bus, train, plane and boat but are most fond of roadtripping. Behind the wheel, we hit the open road, choosing secondary routes through the small towns of the world. We are on a lifelong quest to discover the best cinnamon rolls in country cafes and the tastiest fish on the beach.
We put some effort into staying healthy and fit but theres no doubt wed benefit from a little less taste testing of the sticky buns. In other words, we are pretty normal. Can you do the kind of traveling we do? Do you want to?
Join us on this trip through northern BC, Alaska and the Territories. If you like the idea of roadtripping but think 6 weeks is a bit long for you just pick a shorter segment that appeals to you.
Carolyn & Steve Usher
Interested in roadtripping through other parts of the world?
Check out our website:
http://www.weroadtrip.com/
CHAPTER ONE :
Getting Started
After a lifetime of tenting and towing we are finally at the wheel of our dream machine, a self-designed campervan with a pop-top roof. Granted, it might not be everyones first choice. I know people with full-sized RVs whisper anxiously about us:
Poor kids, stuck in that cramped little tin can. I couldnt bear it without my own shower .
Hey! We have a shower. Its a cold-water hose off the back of the van but when youve been driving over hot asphalt all day the water warms to perfection. We like it.
And we like small. Not cramped, compact. Cramped was the Toyota mini-van we drove around Australia. It had a bed and a fridge. I doubt there was four sq ft of open floor space. We didnt notice it the first time because the seven-week trip flew by under perfect, blue-sky weather. We lived outside, only crawling into the casket, as Steve called it, to sleep.
On the second trip, 21,000 km/ 13,000 mi over four months, the weather was too often cold, wet and windy. Spending a lot more time confined inside, we noticed how small it was. We learned that we like the agility of traveling in a van-sized RV but for North Americas cooler temps and tendency towards rain we were going to need a bigger model.
The Van
Thus, our dream machine, an extended E250 Ford Van with a pop-top roof. This means the roof profile is just like a normal van. We can fit into a garage. But with a push from inside, the roof floats up into the air hard fibreglass top with canvas sides. Screened windows zip open so there is lots of light.
We bought the van as a stripped contractors model then had a local company customize it to our own design. At 22 feet in length there is plenty of room double bed, fridge, cook top, sink, water tank and grey tank, port-a-potty and tons of storage. The passengers seat swivels around to face the back.