Eric Warner - German Wheat Beer (Classic Beer Style)
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ERIC WARMER
A Division of the Brewers Association Boulder, Colorado
German Wheat Beer
By Eric Warner
Classic Beer Style Series
Edited by Tracy Loysen
Copyright 1992 by Eric Warner
ISBN-13: 978-0-937381-34-2
ISBN-10: 0-937381-34-9
EISBN: 978-1-938469-33-6
Published by Brewers Publications, a division of the Brewers Association
PO Box 1679, Boulder, Colorado 80306-1679 USA
(303) 447-0816 www.BrewersAssociation.org
Direct all inquiries/orders to the above address.
All rights reserved. Except for use in a review, no portion of this book may be reproduced in any form without the express written permission of the publisher.
Neither the author, editor nor the publisher assumes any responsibility for the use or misuse of the information contained in this book.
Cover design by Robert L. Schram
Cover photography by Michael Lichter, Michael Lichter Photography
Cover art direction by Marilyn Cohen
Thanks to Rastal GmbH for donating the cover-photo glass.
Photo credits: pp. courtesy of G. Schneider & Sohn.
To Kristin, for your unconditional support of my passion and profession, and for being so understanding every time I make a mess of the kitchen and bathroom when I brew and bottle.
I would like to thank my good friend, Robert Liedl, for assisting me in the collection of data and illustrations for this book. When I returned home from Germany I had no idea I would be writing about my favorite beer style, and Rob was an invaluable link between Colorado and the wealth of information in Bavaria that I should have obtained before I left Germany.
Had Stephen Boss not been so patient in helping me locate the references Rob gave me, this book would only be half its size. Therefore, I extend my deepest gratitude to Steve Boss and the Coors Brewing Company for allowing me to use the Coors Technical Library in Golden, Colo.
Georg Schneider, Jr. provided me with much of the information on the history of German wheat beer, as well as many of the photographs and illustrations found in this book. Many thanks to him, his family and the Schneider & Sohn Weissbier Brewery in Bavaria for helping enrich this book and, more importantly, for being so dedicated to this classic beer style.
I would also like to extend my thanks to Jeff Coleman of the Paulaner Corporation of North America for providing me with information about the company he represents and the beer it produces, and for the photographs he contributed to the book.
Finally, I would like to thank Elizabeth Gold and Charlie Papazian of the Association of Brewers for allowing me to write this book. It was fun working with both of them on this project, and I think I can speak for all the brewers who read this when I say that without their commitment, the Classic Beer Style Series would not be as rich, informative and colorful as it is.
Born and raised in Denver, Colo., Eric Warner successfully completed a degree in German Studies at Lewis and Clark College in Portland, Ore., before pursuing a formal education in Brewing Science in Germany. After three years of extensive brewery, lab and course work, Eric was awarded the degree Diplom-Braumeister from the Technical University of Munich at Weihenstephan.
At home and in Europe Eric has worked in several breweries and visited scores of others. Most notably, he worked at Brauerei Widmann and Hofbrauhaus Moy, both in the Munich area, and at Denvers famed Wynkoop Brewing Co.
Eric is President of Blue River Brewing Consultants, working as an independent consultant to the microbrewing industry. He is also seriously considering starting his own microbrewery that would produce, among others beers, a German Style wheat beer. Erics Weissbier was judged to be the best of the wheat beer category at the 1992 National Homebrew Competition. Eric lives in Lafayette, Colo., with his wife, Kristin, and canine companion, Supai. In his spare time he enjoys hiking, fly fishing, reading, tennis and, of course, homebrewing.
The worlds beer culture is something each of us marvels at, and when the notion of world-class beer is mentioned, Germany instantly comes to mind. In contrast to Great Britain and Belgium, countries that have built their reputation on ales, Germany is popularly known as a country of lagers. Those who are familiar with the worlds beers know that this is true, but they also know that for every rule there is an exception and in this case, the exception is a good onewheat beer. The wheat beers of Germany are gaining in both popularity and availability in their own country and the rest of the world.
To say the wheat beers of Germany is much like saying the wines of France or the Scotch whiskies of Scotland; the wheat beers of Germany and Austria vary immensely in character, not only from region to region, but even within regions. It is both erroneous and misleading to randomly select one of these beers and say that it is exemplary of a German Weissbier. The scope of this book, however, does not allow for complete, detailed descriptions of the history, cultural significance, technological production parameters and analytical qualities of each substyle of German , Sensory Profile of German Wheat Beers. Recipes will be given for all of the primary styles of German wheat beers.
The German word Brotzeit, literally translated, means bread time. So when the boss said Brotzeit at 9 a.m. on my first day of work in a small brewery outside of Munich, I thought it was time for a coffee break. I asked Lorenz where I could go to get some refreshments and he directed me to the small restaurant next door. I quickly located the only familiar faces in the room, those of the beer drivers Id met earlier that morning. I sat down at their table and struggled to understand them as they babbled away in the local Bavarian dialect. I was able to understand the waitress when she came and asked what we wanted. I was the first to order at our table, and sheepishly blurted out the word Kaffee.
Suddenly I felt like I was in one of those commercials for financial advisers, where the room suddenly goes totally silent. Then the youngest beer driver looked at me, and began talking to me while shaking his head. I couldnt understand a word he said, but it seemed clear he was chastising me. The oldest driver just stared down his swollen red nose at me in sheer disbelief. Finally Rudi, who reminded me of Barney Rubble, told the waitress to bring us four Weissbiers, and before I could open my mouth to explain how I was a good boy and wouldnt dare drink before noon, let alone while on the job, Wilma (that really was her name) was headed to the refrigerator.
This wasnt my first Weissbier, and after we had said Prost and taken our first sip, I looked around the room and noticed that we werent the only ones who were enjoying the frothy, full-bodied wheat beer produced at the brewery right next door. This was a working mans pub, and at that moment I realized that this was the beer of choice in the German state that boasts one of the highest per capita beer consumption levels in the world. I had seen plenty of students and club goers enjoying this turbid brew, but on September 21, 1987, I became a reborn Weissbier drinker.
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