Lonely - St Petersburg City Guide
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Built on a swamp, the imperial capital is today a dazzling metropolis whose sheer grandeur never fails to amaze.
Built from nothing by westward-looking Peter the Great, St Petersburg was to be from its inception a display of imperial Russias growing status in the world. Fine-tuned by Peters successors, who employed a host of Italian architects to add fabulous palaces and cathedrals to the citys layout, St Petersburg grew to be the Romanovs showcase capital and Russias first great, modern city. You can walk through the incredible gilded results today, just as the tsars would have done. Despite all that history has thrown at it, St Petersburg still feels every bit an imperial capital, a city largely frozen in time.
Whether youre crossing one of the 342 bridges in the city, cruising the elegant canals or watching the bridges over the mighty Neva River rise at night to allow the ships to pass through, youre never far from water in St Petersburg, which has earned the city unsurprising comparisons to Venice. The similarities dont stop there, though: wander the historic centre to see the canals lined by Italianate mansions and broken up by vast plazas adorned with baroque and neoclassical palaces.
St Petersburg is an almost unrivalled treasure trove of art and culture. You can spend days in the Hermitage, seeing everything from Egyptian mummies to Picassos, while the Russian Museum, spread over four sumptuous palaces, is perhaps the best collection of Russian art in the world. Add to this world-class ballet and opera at the Mariinsky Theatre, classical concerts at the Shostakovich Philharmonia and a slew of big-name music festivals over summer, and you wont be stuck for cultural nourishment. If contemporary art is more your thing, theres also the fantastic new Erarta Museum, showcasing the best in modern Russian art, and a buzzing gallery scene.
The citys White Nights are legendary: those long summer days when the sun barely dips below the horizon. Revelry begins in May, when spring finally comes to the city and parks are filled with flowering trees, and peaks in mid-June, when the sky doesnt get dark, festivals pack out concert halls and the entire city seems to be partying over the brief but glorious summer. But dont worry even when the skies are grey and the ground covered in snow, St Petersburgs rich culture still dazzles and delights.
By Tom Masters, Author
There is something about St Petersburg that gets under your skin. Despite preferring Moscow when I first came to Russia 15 years ago, St Petersburg lingered; its colours and incredi- ble light stayed with me; its history haunted me. When I came to live in Russia in 2000, I didnt hesitate for a moment to choose St Petersburg as the city to settle in. Today what excites me about the city is the growing underground art and music scene, the hedonistic atmosphere and the sense that great things are once again happening here. The city is emerging from Moscows shadow and theres never been such a good time to visit.
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The ultimate St Petersburg experience is during mid-June when the sun slumps lazily towards the horizon, but never fully sets, meaning that the magical nights are a wonderful whitish-grey. At this time Petersburgers indulge themselves in plenty of all-night revelry, several festivals take place and the entire city enjoys an uncharacteristically relaxed atmosphere. Though its the busiest time to visit the city, and most hotels are booked up weeks in advance, theres nothing quite like it, so dont miss out even if you come in May or July youll be impressed by how late the sun stays out!
Month by Month
Perhaps the worlds greatest museum, this iconic establishments vast collection is quite simply mind-boggling, with Egyptian mummies, more Rembrandts than the Louvre, and a collection of early-20th-century art that is unrivalled by almost any other in the world. As if this wasnt enough, your entry ticket allows you to walk around the fascinating apartments and dazzling staterooms of the Romanovs. And there are still the other museum sites: the Winter Palace of Peter I, General Staff Building, Menshikov Palace, Imperial Porcelain factory and the excellent Hermitage Storage Facility.
Historic Heart
No other viewpoint of the historic centre beats the one from the stunning gold dome of St Isaacs Cathedral, which rises majestically over the uniformly sized Italianate palaces and mansions around the Admiralty. Well worth the climb up the 262 steps, a panorama of the city opens up to you with fantastic views over the river, the Winter Palace and the Bronze Horseman . The cathedrals interior is also well worth seeing, with a wonderfully over-the-top iconostasis framed by columns of marble, malachite and lazurite.
Sennaya & Kolomna
Even though the Hermitage is unrivalled as St Petersburgs most impressive museum, that shouldnt stop you from visiting this lesser-known treasure trove of Russian art, spread out over four stunning palaces in the centre of the city. The main building, Mikhailovsky Palace, presents a fascinating collection of Russian art from medieval icons to 20th-century avant-garde masterpieces, while the Marble Palace houses a wing of the Ludwig Museum, and the Stroganov Palace has some of the most spectacular interiors in the city.
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