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Keith Reid - Improving Your Soil: A Practical Guide to Soil Management for the Serious Home Gardener

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Keith Reid Improving Your Soil: A Practical Guide to Soil Management for the Serious Home Gardener
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Improving Your Soil: A Practical Guide to Soil Management for the Serious Home Gardener: summary, description and annotation

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Valuable advice from an expert in soil science.

Intended for both small and medium-size gardens, Improving Your Soil reveals the steps to take to achieve the perfect soil base in which to grow plants. With directions on amending poor soil, modifying mediocre earth, aerating compacted topsoil and substrates, and testing pH levels, this book enables gardeners to nurture their plants and promote more abundant growth.

The features of good soil include proper structure and nutrients that encourage healthy plant growth. Soil in good tilth is loamy, nutrient-rich and friable because it has an optimal mixture of sand, clay and organic matter that prevents severe compaction. Improving Your Soil shows gardeners how to improve the soil in their garden to encourage good seed bedding and a strong root system for proper nutrient disbursement throughout various soil depths.

Flower gardeners and vegetable gardeners will all benefit from the tips and methods in Improving Your Soil.

Topics include:

  • What your soil can tell you about how you need to manage it
  • Soil texture and structure building soil tilth
  • Using amendments to correct soil problems, such as clay or sandy soil
  • Creating a good environment for plant growth in different situations
  • Providing the right amount of water for plants
  • The teeming microscopic world of soils
  • Building soil organic matter
  • Crop rotations
  • Types of compost and how to make good compost
  • Managing soils to minimize pest and disease problems
  • Feeding the plants the nutrients they need, and how to get them there
  • Overcoming common nutrient deficiencies
  • Organic vs. mineral fertilizers.
  • The detailed information is complemented with line drawings, diagrams and illustrations that demonstrate various soil issues and how to resolve common problems. With information on remedying specific problems with particular plants, Improving Your Soil will be an often-consulted resource for all gardeners.

    Keith Reid: author's other books


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    Measuring pH in the Lab A lab pH meter consists of a specialized electrode that - photo 1

    Measuring pH in the Lab A lab pH meter consists of a specialized electrode that - photo 2

    Measuring pH in the Lab
    A lab pH meter consists of a specialized electrode that generates an electrical potential proportional to the concentration of hydrogen ions around its tip and a voltage meter to measure the strength of this potential. These are calibrated against solutions of known pH, so you can read the pH value directly from the meter. In a lab setting, water or a dilute salt solution is added to the soil to create a slurry. The electrode is then inserted into the soil to make contact with the soil solution. The exact method of making the slurry can affect the pH reading, so the readings for the same soil samples sent to different labs can vary. This difference in readings is usually greater with poorly buffered sandy soils. The measured soil pH from a lab using two parts water to one part soil could be a full pH unit higher than one from a lab using only enough water to saturate the soil. This is not a problem if the lime recommendations are based on the same method the lab uses, but it can cause confusion if you send samples from different parts of your garden to two different labs that dont use identical techniques.

    Contents - photo 3

    Contents - photo 4

    Contents

















    Acknowledgments

    No book is the work of a single individual, even if there is only one author listed on the cover, and this one is no exception. Many people helped shape my thinking about soil management through their questions and comments, but two of my colleagues deserve particular mention: Thank you, Adam and Anne. Thanks, as well, to our neighbors Frank and Janet, who were very good sports about being the average gardeners, gave the first draft a read through and werent afraid to point out where I hadnt explained something clearly.

    Editing is a daunting task, but I have appreciated editor Tracy C. Read and copy editor Susan Dickinsons deft touch and gentle correction. It has made the book much more readable.

    Writing is, by its nature, a solitary activity, so friends, both old and new, who took me away for a little while to reenergize and reconnect with the outside world are golden. Thanks to Dave and Marg and Wilco and Beth.

    Finally, the most important thanks go to my wife, Jan, for her constant support and encouragement. Not only did she put up with my disappearing to the computer downstairs for hours on end (often when there was housework to be done), but she provided the first critique on the manuscript. She even tried to cure me of writing run-on sentences (although some things not even love can cure completely). This book is for you, dear, and now that it is done, I promise to help more around our own garden!

    Preface

    Im part of a small minority who finds soil to be endlessly fascinating. Most people have a more prosaic interest in soil and, if they think about it at all, it is as a medium for growing plants. The most typical question about soil I hear is What can I do to my soil to make my crops grow better?

    Soil scientists have been studying soil since the beginnings of scientific agriculture in the mid-1800s but we have barely begun to understand the intricate interplay between the air, water and minerals that make up soil. Each new discovery seems to create as many questions as answers.

    This book is designed to help you manage your soil better so that you can grow a more bountiful garden by putting the right fixes in the right places. Soil does not exist in isolation. Unless it was delivered by a dump truck, the soil in your garden is a product of the parent material that was deposited thousands of years ago interacting with the cycles of rainfall, seasonal freezing and thawing and the plants that grew in soil. Over time, the plants influenced the soil, which in turn modified the environment for the plants.

    My goal in writing this book is to demystify soil and offer practical methods that will allow you to grow a better garden. But I also hope this book will open your eyes to the many wonders of what goes on under your feet.


    Introduction
    Seasons of the Soil

    Most of all, one discovers that the soil does not stay the same but, like anything alive, is always changing and telling its own story. Soil is the substance of transformation.
    Carol Williams, Bringing a Garden to Life

    No matter where you live, no matter what time of year it is, there is something happening underground in your garden. The ebb and flow of life in the soil as it responds to changes in temperature, moisture and plant growth is part of the mystery and beauty of the world beneath our feet.

    Winter
    Snow lies deep on the garden, and life has slowed to a crawl under the ground. The night crawlers have retreated to the bottom of their burrows, well below the frost line, walling themselves off from the worst of the weather. Insects have gone dormant or are spending the winter as eggs or cocoons, waiting to emerge when the weather warms up. The annual plants have died, and the perennials and winter annuals are dormant and root growth has halted.

    If you think life in the soil has come to a standstill, however, you are wrong. The soil may be frozen (although probably not, if the snow cover is deep), but there is still liquid water in tiny pores and thin films. Microbes in this water are sluggish but not completely dormant. They continue to consume organic carbon in the soil and respire it as carbon dioxide. This carbon dioxide dissolves in the soil water, making it slightly acidic and helping dissolve soil minerals.

    Along the pathway where youve cleared the snow (or anywhere the snow has blown off the soil surface), the environment is much different. Without the insulating blanket of snow, the temperature of the ground is much colder and more of the water in the soil freezes. If there is a long period of consistently cold temperatures, a strange thing happens. A layer of ice develops at the bottom of the layer of frozen soil. As water freezes, the amount available in liquid form is reduced, which has the same effect as drying the soil, so more water flows into this area. Since the temperature is now cold enough to freeze the water, it accumulates into a lens of almost pure ice, an inch or so thick. If the cold weather persists, multiple lenses can develop at progressively greater depths. The ice lenses push up the soil above them, which collapses back to its original level with the spring thaw. This is the frost heave that can push fence posts or perennial plants out of the ground.

    Early Spring
    The days are getting longer, and the rays of the sun carry more heat, melting the snow and warming the soil. Snow reflects much of the suns energy, but where the soil is exposed, the dark surface soaks up the warmth. Bacteria and fungi start to grow a little faster, and the first visible sign of life are the springtails. These tiny insects become active on sunny days, even when the air temperature is below freezing. Although you may not see them against the soil, you can spot them jumping about on the melting snow, which explains how they have come to be known as snow fleas.
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