Grafting Fruit Trees
![Grafting for Fruit Trees Larry Southwick CONTENTS Introduction The term - photo 1](/uploads/posts/book/47338/images/tree.jpg)
Grafting for Fruit Trees
Larry Southwick
CONTENTS
Introduction
The term graft stems from the words greffe or grafe or graphium, referring to the pencil shape of a scion or shoot. Grafting is the act of joining two plant parts so that they unite or grow together to achieve a desired result.
The grafting of fruit trees is one of the oldest of recorded horticultural practices, and was mentioned by Theophrastus about 300 BC. The Romans developed and utilized several grafting techniques that are still in use today. In China as early as the fourth century AD, it was reported that Oriental pear was best suited to the rootstock Tu Li, indicating that other combinations were less successful. Also, Japanese plum was found to be successfully grafted onto peach but not vice versa. Thus many of the principles of grafting were known around the world in very early times.
A.J. Downing discussed grafting in his book The Fruits and Fruit Trees of America published in 1857 and stated: No person having any interest in a garden should be unable to perform these operations, as they are capable of effecting transformations and improvements in all trees and shrubs.
Actually, grafting and budding are not difficult. A little knowledge about the techniques helps to inject more fun into the procedures, especially since know-how will almost guarantee success.
![Definition of Terms Grafting The practice of physically joining parts of - photo 2](/uploads/posts/book/47338/images/tree.jpg)
Definition of Terms
Grafting | The practice of physically joining parts of two individual plants, as with stock and scion, so that they will form a union and grow together. |
Budding | A form of grafting, where a single bud is used instead of a piece of wood (shoot) containing several buds. |
Scion | Piece of shoot to be grafted or is already grafted into the stock. It usually is dormant wood of the previous seasons shoot growth. From it grows a branch or a whole tree. The varietal characteristics of the scion (for example McIntosh apple) are thus perpetuated. They are not changed by the stock to which the scion is joined. |
Bud | That portion of a shoot or scion found at the base of each leaf stalk. Buds for propagation may be taken in midsummer or later. This is when budding is done. The bud then grows out the next season and forms a new branch or whole tree, perpetuating the variety the same as the scion in grafting. |
Stock | The root, branch, or tree trunk into which a graft or bud is set; that part of the tree below the point of insertion of the scion or bud; below the graft union. |
Cambium | Thin layer of active cells between the bark and the wood which produces new bark on the outside and new wood on the inside. When bark is slipped or pulled off a shoot or branch, the slippage commonly is at the cambium layer. This layer of living and dividing cells is the source of growth, thus increasing the thickness of a woody stem, and causing annual growth rings. Obviously, its preservation is essential. The cambium cells of scion and stock must unite to result in successful grafting and budding. Since growth takes place in the cambium region, it is essential to bring the cambial tissue of both stock and scion (or bud) into contact with each other so that subsequent growth will form a continuous layer of new wood uniting the parts as one. |
![Cross-section of a stock or scion or limb showing the location of the important - photo 3](/uploads/posts/book/47338/images/f0006-01.jpg)
Cross-section of a stock or scion or limb showing the location of the important cambium layer.
![Cross-sections looking down on cleft grafts On left scions are wrongly - photo 4](/uploads/posts/book/47338/images/f0006-02.jpg)
Cross-sections, looking down on cleft grafts. On left, scions are wrongly placed since the cambiums of scion and stock are not in contact, although the outside surfaces or edges are flush or even. The stock bark is thicker. On right, note that scions are in far enough that the cambium layer contacts the cambium of the stock.
Graft or Bud Union | Area of attachment between the scion (or bud) and the stock. This usually is easily discernable for a year or more after grafting or budding, like a healed wound on people which may leave a visible scar. |
Compatible | The scion (or bud) and the stock (if compatible) are able to form a successful union wherein the vascular elements of both scion and stock are dovetailed strongly together. Incompatibility has been defined as the characteristic interruption in cambial and vascular continuity which leads to smooth breaks at the point of union, thereby making the union unsuccessful. Grafting normally is confined to closely related plants, for example, one variety of apple on another, or pear on pear, or dogwood on dog-wood. Apple cannot be grafted successfully on peach or pear or vice versa and therefore they are considered incompatible. The same is true with pear on cherry, apple on cherry, pear on peach, peach on cherry, etc. Incompatible combinations exhibit one or more of the following: low percentage of success, premature autumn leaf coloration, premature flowerbud formation, early leaf fall, dying back of young shoots, mechanically weak unions, increased winter injury. In a few cases, grafting can be accomplished with different genera such as apple (Malus) on pear (Pyrus) and pear on quince (Cydonia) but this is not common. |
Dormant | Usually refers to the condition of vegetative tissues (shoots and buds) during the period when no vegetative growth takes place, as in winter. Buds also may be dormant on new growing shoots and may remain dormant until the next spring when they resume growth. |
![Tools used in grafting and budding A-saw B-mallet C-grafting tool D-heavy - photo 5](/uploads/posts/book/47338/images/f0008-01.jpg)
Tools used in grafting and budding:
A-saw, B-mallet, C-grafting tool, D-heavy knife and screw driver can substitute for C, E-budding knife, F-knife for tub and side grafting, G-hand hone or tool for sharpening knives, H-pruning shears
Tools for Grafting
Grafting can be done with very little equipment such as a saw, knife, pruning shears, screwdriver, small brads (nails), and hand grafting wax. A more complete set of tools is illustrated. It is essential that cutting tools are sharp.
By far the most important grafting tool is a sharp knife. It should have a thin blade as well as a sharp edge. It can be an ordinary pocket knife or a specialized budding knife.
Pruning saws and pruning shears are available at local hardware stores. Saws may be curved and are designed to cut green wood cleanly and smoothly. The author has found Sears Craftsman pruning saw, with Kromedge blade, easy to use. Other types such as bow saws or even a carpenters saw can be effective as long as they are sharp and shiny. Pruning shears of the bypass style are more universally used than the snap-cut style (cutting blade presses down onto a flat surface) but either is all right if sharp and especially not rusty. Special budding and grafting knives are not really necessary for a little backyard grafting and budding. A pocket knife can suffice as long as it is sharp. A hand hone is very useful for putting a good edge on knives. A large screwdriver can substitute for the grafting tool illustrated and a piece of wood or carpenters hammer can be substituted for a specialized wooden mallet.
Next page