Larry Southwick - Grafting Fruit Trees

Grafting Fruit Trees

Larry Southwick

The term graft stems from the words greffe or grafe or graphium, referring to the pencil shape of a scion or shoot. Grafting is the act of joining two plant parts so that they unite or grow together to achieve a desired result.

The grafting of fruit trees is one of the oldest of recorded horticultural practices, and was mentioned by Theophrastus about 300 BC. The Romans developed and utilized several grafting techniques that are still in use today. In China as early as the fourth century AD, it was reported that Oriental pear was best suited to the rootstock Tu Li, indicating that other combinations were less successful. Also, Japanese plum was found to be successfully grafted onto peach but not vice versa. Thus many of the principles of grafting were known around the world in very early times.

A.J. Downing discussed grafting in his book The Fruits and Fruit Trees of America published in 1857 and stated: No person having any interest in a garden should be unable to perform these operations, as they are capable of effecting transformations and improvements in all trees and shrubs.

Actually, grafting and budding are not difficult. A little knowledge about the techniques helps to inject more fun into the procedures, especially since know-how will almost guarantee success.

Cross-section of a stock or scion or limb showing the location of the important cambium layer.

Cross-sections, looking down on cleft grafts. On left, scions are wrongly placed since the cambiums of scion and stock are not in contact, although the outside surfaces or edges are flush or even. The stock bark is thicker. On right, note that scions are in far enough that the cambium layer contacts the cambium of the stock.

Tools used in grafting and budding:
A-saw, B-mallet, C-grafting tool, D-heavy knife and screw driver can substitute for C, E-budding knife, F-knife for tub and side grafting, G-hand hone or tool for sharpening knives, H-pruning shears

Grafting can be done with very little equipment such as a saw, knife, pruning shears, screwdriver, small brads (nails), and hand grafting wax. A more complete set of tools is illustrated. It is essential that cutting tools are sharp.

By far the most important grafting tool is a sharp knife. It should have a thin blade as well as a sharp edge. It can be an ordinary pocket knife or a specialized budding knife.

Pruning saws and pruning shears are available at local hardware stores. Saws may be curved and are designed to cut green wood cleanly and smoothly. The author has found Sears Craftsman pruning saw, with Kromedge blade, easy to use. Other types such as bow saws or even a carpenters saw can be effective as long as they are sharp and shiny. Pruning shears of the bypass style are more universally used than the snap-cut style (cutting blade presses down onto a flat surface) but either is all right if sharp and especially not rusty. Special budding and grafting knives are not really necessary for a little backyard grafting and budding. A pocket knife can suffice as long as it is sharp. A hand hone is very useful for putting a good edge on knives. A large screwdriver can substitute for the grafting tool illustrated and a piece of wood or carpenters hammer can be substituted for a specialized wooden mallet.