Christine A. Smyczynski - Upstate New York

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To my family: Thanks for all your love and support as I wrote this book. I also dedicate this book in loving memory of my parents, Joseph and Adele Kloch, who sparked my love of local travel, and my in-laws, Stanley and Alice Smyczynski, who were big fans of my writing.

FRENCH CASTLE AT OLD FORT NIAGARA, FORT NIAGARA STATE PARK, YOUNGSTOWN

Contents

HIGH FALLS GORGE, WILMINGTON

I wouldnt have been able to write this book without help from friends and family who supplied me with moral support as well as information. First, Id like to thank God for giving me the ability to write as well as the strength and patience to finish this project.

Next, Id like to thank my husband Jim, who offered love, support, and encouragement as I worked long hours on the book. Jim, along with our two youngest children, Jennifer and Joe, spent his summer vacations traveling with me to the eastern part of New York State. An extra special thanks to my daughter Jennifer, my partner in crime, for going with me on day trips closer to home and overnight girls getaways. There was always lots of eating and retail therapy involved in our trips!

While our older two sons, Andy and Peter, didnt travel with us, they did help out by taking care of things at home when we were gone and making sure our dog, Franklin, was fed and happy.

I want to thank my friends Mary, Linda, and Annette, who were willing to read through some of the chapters about places that they are far more familiar with than I, to make sure I captured the essence of that particular place and didnt leave out anything important.

People working at area chambers of commerce and visitor bureaus, as well as shopkeepers, innkeepers, and restaurant owners, were very helpful in providing me with information. I wish I could thank everyone by name, but space does not permit. A sincere thank you if you helped in any way.

Finally, Id like to thank the folks at The Countryman Press (a division of W. W. Norton & Company) for asking me to write this guidebook for them. It was a lot of work, but quite an adventure!

LETCHWORTH STATE PARK

N ew York: When most people hear that, they envision New York City, or perhaps Niagara Falls and Buffalo on the western end of the state. However, there is so much more to New York State. There are many interesting places located on the backroads and byways of the state, often just a short distance from major cities.

While this guide covers something from every region of upstate New York, from mountains, lakes, and beaches to everything in between, it is by no means a comprehensive guide of all there is to see and do in this vast area of the state, which, for the purposes of this book, is defined as everything in the state except the New York City area and Long Island. Information about those two areas could fill an entire book by itself! The nine regions that make up the upstate area are: Adirondacks, Catskills, Chautauqua-Allegany, Greater Niagara, 1000 Islands, Capital-Saratoga, Central, Finger Lakes, and Hudson Valley.

Writing about everything to see and do in upstate New York would be an impossible task, and even if one could accomplish that, the sheer volume of information would overwhelm most readers. This book offers a sampling of some of the most intriguing places to visit in upstate New York, some of them off the beaten trail, others close to some of the larger towns and cities. Some well-known destinations are mentioned, as well as places you may have never heard of before. This book includes areas along the Hudson River, Lakes Erie and Ontario, the Saint Lawrence River and the Erie Canal, as well as the scenic regions of the Adirondack and Catskill Mountains.

When I started brainstorming places to include in this book, I had well over 50 ideas for chapters in mind. However, I quickly realized a book with that much information would be as thick as a phone book! Plus, I would never be able to visit all those places and get the book done on a timely basis. So I whittled it down to 20 drives and destinations, perfect for day trips, weekend getaways, or even a weeks vacation if youre so inclined.

Ive tried to include something for everyone: history buffs, shoppers, boaters, wine and beer aficionados, outdoor enthusiasts, families with kids, car and motorcycle fans, and everyone who wants to learn more about New York State. Some of these drives will take you partly on the highway, while others will take you into the middle of nowhere. Some of the routes Ive included have definite themes, such as a wine trail, while others string together a variety of attractions and sights along the way. Some are established scenic byways, while others are routes which I thought would be interesting to travel personally.

At the beginning of each chapter you get the basics of each drive: where to begin your trip, estimated time and mileage, and an overview of what to see and do on each drive. Ill even offer suggestions of side trips to take off the main route.

Please note that information in any travel-related book can change quickly, especially in rural, out-of-the-way places. While in general museums and other attractions dont go out of business that often, restaurants and stores frequently change ownership or close, so try to call ahead if you are traveling a long distance to a particular business.

Lodging prices in Upstate New York can range from very reasonable to extremely pricey. Here is a per-night guide to accomodations listed. Rates fluctuate seasonally.

Fast Facts about New York

One of the 13 original colonies

Four US presidents from the state:

Martin Van Buren, 8th president, born in Kinderhook

Millard Fillmore, 13th president, born in Summerhill, lived in East Aurora, buried in Buffalo

Theodore Roosevelt, 26th president, born in New York City, inaugurated in Buffalo

Franklin Delano Roosevelt, 32nd president, born in Hyde Park

The state has 62 counties