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Eric C. Elstob - Travels in a Europe Restored: 1989-1995

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Europe Restored is a highly personal account of the fall of the Iron Curtain, written from an unusual viewpoint. Eric Elstob was director of various investment trusts in the City during the years before and after the collapse of Communism, with a special interest in European affairs. But he also travelled as an ordinary tourist in eastern Europe, and this book juxtaposes vividly the vignettes of everyday life that he encountered with his high-level contacts in the financial and political world; a discussion of the problems of switching from a command economy to a market economy with the finance minister in the capital one month is set beside a talk with the baker who had just bought his shop in a village the next month. Such daily encounters offer exceptional grass-roots witness to the economic challenges facing the former eastern European countries as they struggle to rejoin the wider European economic and cultural entity.

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title Travels in a Europe Restored 1989-1995 author Elstob - photo 1

title:Travels in a Europe Restored : 1989-1995
author:Elstob, Eric.
publisher:Boydell & Brewer Ltd.
isbn10 | asin:0851155200
print isbn13:9780851155203
ebook isbn13:9780585165691
language:English
subjectElstob, Eric--Journeys--Europe, Eastern, Europe, Eastern--Description and travel, Europe, Eastern--Economic conditions--1989-
publication date:1997
lcc:DJK19.E4 1997eb
ddc:914.30879
subject:Elstob, Eric--Journeys--Europe, Eastern, Europe, Eastern--Description and travel, Europe, Eastern--Economic conditions--1989-
Page iii
Travels in a Europe Restored 19891995
Eric Elstob
THE BOYDELL PRESS
Page iv
Eric Elstob 1997
AllRightsReserved. Except as permitted under current legislation
no part of this work may be photocopied, stored in a retrieval system,
published, performed in public, adapted, broadcast,
transmitted, recorded or reproduced in any form or by any means,
without the prior permission of the copyright owner
First published 1997
The Boydell Press, Woodbridge
ISBN 0 85115 520 0
The Boydell Press is an imprint of Boydell & Brewer Ltd
PO Box 9, Woodbridge, Suffolk IP12 3DF, UK
and of Boydell & Brewer Inc.
PO Box 41026, Rochester, NY 14604-4126, USA
A catalogue record for this book is available
from the British Library
This publication is printed on acid-free paper
Printed in Great Britain by
St Edmundsbury Press Ltd, Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk
Page v
Foreword
My publisher complains that this is a difficult book to categorise, falling as it does between travel, history and journalism. It began not as a book but as a diary, which remains substantially unaltered, and I have had two simple purposes in publishing it: firstly to record a little of what Eastern Europe was like in the earliest years after the end of Communism, and secondly to share with the reader my enthusiasm for this little known, but beautiful and fascinating, part of our continent.
It is hard to realise in the streets of Prague or Budapest today that it is only seven years since the removal of the Iron Curtain. Good restaurants and well-stocked shops, smartly dressed people and new cars, are a total contrast to what I saw there in 1990. Whatever the grumbles of the politicians about the costs, or the moans of the economists about the low productivity, the surge in prosperity which has come through the replacement of a command economy by a market economy is obvious and undeniable. Changed even more radically is the mood of the public in Eastern Europe, as their confidence and self-assurance blossom in an open society.
So rapid has been the change that I worry that many of the more poignant sights of 1990, like the photographs of the victims of Communism in the sandpits on Wenceslas Square, will go forgotten and unrecorded. The human mind has the same amazing capacity as the human body to heal wounds, even if the scar tissue of Communism will inevitably remain for generations.
A greater, and sadder, loss will be the sense of excitement in those first years of liberty, when the oppressors were gone, the secret police and the prison camp, the barbed wire along the
Page vi
frontier with Western Europe, and there was everything to play for. Even though I was just a foreign tourist, I could feel the exhilaration in the air. Everybody was on a high and I suspect that the positive morale and the energy which was released will inspire Eastern Europe for a generation. When I say Eastern Europe I mean the Visegrad group of countries (Poland, the Czech Republic, Hungary and Slovakia) plus the Baltic States, Slovenia and, I hope, Croatia. In Romania, however, and much of the rest of the former Yugoslavia, authoritarianism and the worst kind of nationalism are withering the bright hopes. The mind-set of Communism lives on. Yugoslavia is the most tragic case, for it appeared to be the most open and liberal of the Communist states; and yet, since the fall of Communism, it has become a byword for barbarism.
I have written of the excitement of discovering the missing third of our continent. The Independent summed it up best in the headline of a classic editorial written at the end of 1989: 'The world has no edge any more.' East of the Iron Curtain lay lands of which we knew less than Japan or India, blank spaces on the map like Central Africa in a Victorian atlas.
I deliberately did not write that Eastern Europe was more alien than those countries; far from being alien, its cities are as European as London or Paris. I felt completely at home there. The lifestyle and architecture are our own. Indeed it was the architecture, that least transportable of the arts, which was the foremost discovery for an English visitor: the Gothic of Prague, the baroque of Vilnius - examples could multiply into a list. Yet to our great-grandparents these were familiar places, where any traveller might comfortably go. Anthony Trollope, surely the most English of novelists, set one of his novels, Nina Balatka, in Prague after going there on holiday.
So much of our own history is there. The balance of power, which was the lodestar of British foreign policy for centuries, depended on Eastern Europe in its equation. The Second World War was begun to protect Poland; the irony is that it ended with an occupied Poland. So much of our thought is there too. Eastern Europe was home to Kepler and Copernicus, who changed our understanding of the world on the foundations of Galileo's work;
Page vii
home too to Mendel, on the foundations of whose work Crick and Watson have further changed our understanding of the world. Above all, so much of our music comes from there. Perhaps because music is abstract we do not associate it with a physical place, but as soon as we do the importance of Eastern Europe is striking. Even Mozart had his greatest successes in Prague, most famously the first night of
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