Manresa Oscar - My Boqueria

To my mother, la Katy, for always giving me strength from up there and equally as important for making the worlds best croquettes, a recipe Ill never, ever reveal.

To Alexis, my mini-me, my nephew, who had the strength of a train and who Ill remember every day for his youth, vision and because the Almighty signed him up without my permission so that he could look after heaven. The day I meet him again, well make such a racket that Saint Peter will throw both of us out.

To Teresa, my wife, whos put up with me for an eternity. I dont remember if Ive ever said it, but without you I'm nothing. Nobody would have supported my follies in the same way, though I can sometimes see how your temper is tested through your glasses. I love you.

To the inspiration that is my daughters, Nicole and Francina. They are the best things Ive ever made, better than pork fat with caviar and fish shells.

To my brother Carlos, a great example of serenity personified and a leading light in my life.

To my in-laws, Pepito and Angelina, in whom Ive always found unfailing support.

To Miguel Ginesta Ariza, el tiet, for teaching me the importance of discipline at work.

To David and Diana Moya, for having faith in me.

To Romain Fornell, an exceptional chef, steadfast friend and the man who has taught me the most about the world of cooking, while dragging me around the world to run marathons.

To Joan Manubens, a friend for life and a model of generosity.

To Vctor Garca and Sergio Fernndez Guey, for making cooking easy and being part of the trio Los Morcones.

To Adel Ben Aribia, for his constant example of what it is to excel.

To Abel Mars, for listening to my ideas, projects and madness over the first coffee of the day without complaining.

To the after-dinner drink and cigar while speaking about food with my friends Adolfo Herrero, Juan Carlos, Borja and Pedro Iglesias, Carlitos Fernndez, Paco de la Rosa, Jos Gaspar and Jos Mara Abarca, Quico Bargall, Ferran Lozano, Manuel Guaita and Francisco Garca.

To my team in the kitchen, Josep Escat and Albert Esteban.

To the Rubio family, Gregorio, Cristina and Evan, for introducing me to the worlds best oil.

To the Eada Team, Carlos Fernndez, Alberto Carceles and Joan Esacamilla.

To the girls at Transwaal, for their skill and talent in making the aprons I wear every day. A chefs jacket is either custom-made, or it isnt a chefs jacket.

To Primitivo, the sensational sharpener of my knives.

To Jos Mara Sanz Loquillo for writing the songs that inspire me every day and for describing me so well Feo, fuerte y formal (Ugly, strong and well-mannered), and for introducing me to Jordi Bou el soci. Were 99% rock and roll.

To all my friends in La Boqueria who werent featured in this book: I hope you see yourselves reflected in its pages. Thanks to you, this market will continue to be the best in the world.

To Jon Sarabia and Ricardo Feriche, for their art in this project.

To Xavi Torres-Bacchetta, the worlds best photographer. During the process of making this book and without forewarning he decided to get married to an extraordinary woman, who puts up with him every day. Were with you, Virginia. And to their wonderful son, Pau, the heir to the Torres empire and the future guru of La Boqueria.

To Albert Adri, for his wonderful foreword, my mentor.

And last, but by no means least, to Toni Garca Ramn, for his sense of humour. We connected from the very first moment and shared wonderful times speaking about the focus of this book. Ah, and to his dog Groucho: the only one wholl put up with him.

Thank you, thank you, thank you.

RECIPES

METHOD

I had no idea why a Gilda was called a Gilda, but as Im a resourceful person, I was able to find out. It was first served in Casa Valls, a restaurant in San Sebastin, and it was given the name because it was a little spicy, like the character played by Rita Hayworth in the film of the same name. This one is easy: take the best salted anchovy you can afford, a proper olive, and a green chilli pepper that isnt too thin or too thick. If you want to get creative, substitute the olive with a quails egg, the green chilli for a jalapeo (only for the brave), or add a marinated fresh anchovy. Make sure to serve them with a good vermouth, because that way all the flavours are intensified. And dont be stingy with the ingredients: if you use a mediocre anchovy or an olive out of a tin, instead of a Gilda, you might end up with a mother superior. And you wouldnt want that.

METHOD

This country is extremely lucky, aside from the climate and trouble we make for ourselves: we have the best pigs in the world. Make no mistake; Im not talking politics. Im talking about the animal, about the pig, our pig. We use every part of it, including the bones. Thats why this recipe is as simple, as delicious, and as Spanish as a good consomm. Sometimes we arent aware that a ham bone can be more powerful than Harry Potters wand. Down to business: diced vegetables in a stock pot (or pressure cooker) over the heat with oil. Saut the vegetables for a minute. Then add the bone and two litres of water (dont be brutes and cut up the bone as well), boil for two hours and then strain. There you have it. Eggs are sometimes added, but let's not be over-ambitious. What we want first is a simple home-made consomm of the highest quality.

METHOD

This was my first dish when I started out cooking professionally (I got a standing ovation; you, dear reader, can too) and you only need a good quantity of wild mushrooms and a bowl, and eggs, cream, butter and breadcrumbs to put into the damned bowl. Then you beat everything briskly, and when you finish, put the mixture into a dish of your choice in the oven, over a bain-marie. If you dont know what a bain-marie is, then youve got a problem. And so do I. With you. Bake for 30 minutes at 180C in a pre-heated oven. Dont look at me; I didnt make it up. You can drizzle it with a sauce, but the mushroom slice is divine on its own. By the way, the mushrooms are up to you, choose the ones you want. We have a thousand different sorts in La Boqueria, so you know where to buy them.

METHOD

Want to indulge yourself? Buy half a dozen eggs (if you visit La Boqueria, make sure theyre from Calaf) and 10 grams of caviar. Then you can die happy. The menus at my restaurants always feature eggs; theyre first-rate ingredients, reasonably priced, and they go well with everything. Shrimp? Shrimp it is. Squid? Squid it is. Chistorra? Then chistorra it is. My favourite recipe is simple: fried eggs with a little foie gras and a port reduction. Your palate will be jumping for joy, letting off fireworks and giving thanks to Zeus and the other inhabitants of Mount Olympus. You already know where to buy the foie gras; you know how to fry an egg (thats easy, come on), so the only thing left for me to do is to suggest you consult an old cookbook for how to make a reduction. Its easy, but Ive run out of space. In the worst possible case, fry the eggs and serve with foie gras. And there you have it.