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Norwich - A History of Venice

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John Julius Norwichs dazzling history of Venice from its origins to its eighteenth century fall.Lord Norwich has loved and understood Venice as well as any other Englishman has ever done. He has put readers of his generation more in his debt than any other English writer Peter Levi, The Sunday Times.

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PENGUIN BOOKS

A HISTORY OF VENICE

John Julius Norwich was born in 1939. He was educated at Upper Canada College, Toronto, at Eton, at the University of Strasbourg and, after a spell of National Service in the Navy, at New College, Oxford, where he took a degree in French and Russian. In 1953 he joined the Foreign Service, where he remained for twelve years, serving at the embassies in Belgrade and Beirut and with the British delegation to the Disarmament Conference at Geneva. In 1964 he resigned from the service in order to write.

His many and varied publications include two books on the medieval Norman Kingdom in Sicily, The Normans in the South and The Kingdom in the Sun, which are published by Penguin in one volume entitled The Normans in Sicily; two travel books, Mount Athos (with Reresby Sitwell) and Sahara; The Architecture of Southern England; Clyndeboume; two anthologies of poetry and prose, Christmas Crackers and More Christmas Crackers; A History of Venice, originally published in two volumes; his three-volume history of the Byzantine Empire, Byzantium: The Early Centuries, Byzantium: The Apogee, and Byzantium: The Decline and Fall. A Short History of Byzantium was published in 1997. Many of his books are published in Penguin. In addition he has written and presented some thirty historical documents for television, and is a regular lecturer on Venice and numerous other subjects.

For nearly thirty years Lord Norwich was chairman of the Venice in Peril Fund. He is now chairman of the World Monuments Fund in Britain. He is a fellow of the Royal Society of Literature, the Royal Geographical Society and the Society of Antiquaries, a Companion of the Royal Victorian Order and a Commendatore of the Ordine al Merito della Repubblica Italiana. He was made a CVO in 1993.

JOHN JULIUS NORWICH

A History of
VENICE

Picture 1

Picture 2

PENGUIN BOOKS

PENGUIN BOOKS

Published by the Penguin Group

Penguin Books Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, England

Penguin Putnam Inc., 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014, USA

Penguin Books Australia Ltd, 250 Camberwell Road, Camberwell,Victoria 3124, Australia

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Penguin Books (NZ) Ltd, Cnr Rosedale and Airborne Roads, Albany, Auckland, New Zealand

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Penguin Books Ltd, Registered Offices: 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, England

www.penguin.com

First published by Allen Lane The Penguin Press in two volumes: Venice, the Rise to Empire

1977 and Venice, the Greatness and the Fall 1981

Published by Allen Lane The Penguin Press in one volume: A History of Venice 1982

Published in Penguin Books 1983

Reissued in Penguin Books 2003

Copyright John Julius Norwich, 1977, 1981, 1982, 2003

All rights reserved

The moral right of the author has been asserted

The author and publishers are grateful to the following for permission to use photographs: B. B. C. Hulton Picture Library for the frontispiece and nos. 50, 51; Bodleian Library, Oxford, for nos. 14, 28; Osvaldo Bohm, Venice, for nos. 1,3,6,7,8,9,10,11,13,15,16,17, 20, 22, 23, 25, 26; the Trustees of the British Museum for nos. 12,41,48,49, 53, 59; Courtauld Institute of Art for nos. 4, 5, 24,27, 29, 30; the Italian Tourist Office for no. 2; Mansell Collection for nos. 18, 19, 21,31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 42, 43, 44, 45,46,47, 54, 55, 56, 58; the National Gallery, London, for no. 57; The Trustees of the National Maritime Museum for nos. 40,52.

Except in the United Sates of America, this book is sold subject to the condition that it shall not, by way of trade or otherwise, be lent, re-sold, hired out, or otherwise circulated without the publishers prior consent in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition including this condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser

ISBN: 978-0-14-193678-9

For Jason

and in memory of the grandfather

he never knew who loved Venice

and should have written this book

Contents
Illustrations

Frontispiece. Venice in 1486

following page 166

following page 486

Maps
Acknowledgements

During the shamefully long time that I have been working on this book, I have received help and encouragement from many friends, both English and Venetian. Some debts, however, must be individually acknowledged, and my particular thanks must go to Mollie Philipps, for her unflagging and invaluable work on the bibliography and illustrations; to Joe Links, himself the author of one of the most delightful books on Venice ever written, for the loan of books and for his eagleeyed scrutiny of the proofs; to Peter Lathrop Lauritzen for the bottomless erudition with which he cleared up several knotty problems on the spot; to Jean Curtis and Euphan Scott for their patient typing and retyping of an almost indecipherable manuscript; to Barbara Reynolds for allowing me to use her translation of the Ariosto epigraph to Chapter 2; to Douglas and Sarah Matthews for the index; to Marilyn Perry, Philip Longworth, and the late John Benn. My only regret is that readers of this one-volume edition will not have a chance of seeing the lovely jackets designed by my wife Anne for the two separate volumes of the original English edition.

Almost every word in the pages which follow was written in the Reading Room of the London Library, my debt to which as to every member of its superb staff can only be recorded, never measured.

Introduction

First experiences should be short and intense. When my parents took me to Venice in the summer of 1946, we stayed only a few hours; but I can still feel not remember, feel the impact it made on my sixteen-year-old brain. With his usual blend of firmness and commonsense, my father limited to two the buildings we actually entered: the Basilica of St Mark and Harrys Bar. For the rest of the time, wandering on foot or drifting gently in a gondola, I subconsciously absorbed the first essential Venetian lesson a lesson, incidentally, that poor Ruskin, beavering away at his crockets and cusps round the Doges Palace, never learnt: that in Venice, more than anywhere else, the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. However majestic the churches, however magnificent the palazzi, however dazzling the pictures, the ultimate masterpiece remains Venice itself. Interiors, even the great golden mystery of St Marks, are but details. The relation of Piazza and Piazzetta, the sublime setting of S. Giorgio Maggiore at precisely the right angle to the Molo, the play of light at a canals curve, the slap of water against the hull of a gondola, the all-pervading smell of the sea for let there be no mistake about it, except when the wind is blowing across from Mestre and Marghera, Venice is the sweetest-smelling city in Europe these are the first things to be experienced and understood. There will be time for Titian and Tintoretto later. Even Carpaccio must wait his turn.

As we wandered and drifted, my father talked about Venetian history, and I learned that Venice was not just the most beautiful city that I had ever seen; she had also been an independent republic for over 1,000 years longer than the period separating us from the Norman Conquest during much of which she had been mistress of the Mediterranean, the principal crossroads between East and West, the richest and most prosperous commercial centre of the civilized world. He told me how the sea had protected her, not only in her first stormy beginnings but all through her history, making her the only city in Italy never to have been invaded, ravaged or destroyed never, that is, until Napoleon, the self-styled Attila of the Venetian State, in a single sustained outburst of vindictive malice, put an end to the Most Serene Republic forever. Her unique system of government, my father admitted, was stern, occasionally even harsh; but he believed that it had a better record of fairness and justice than any other in Europe, and that it had been much maligned by historians. For that very reason, one of these days, he intended to write a history of Venice himself and set the record straight.

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