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Text originally published in 1946 under the same title.
Papamoa Press 2018, all rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted by any means, electrical, mechanical or otherwise without the written permission of the copyright holder.
Publishers Note
Although in most cases we have retained the Authors original spelling and grammar to authentically reproduce the work of the Author and the original intent of such material, some additional notes and clarifications have been added for the modern readers benefit.
We have also made every effort to include all maps and illustrations of the original edition the limitations of formatting do not allow of including larger maps, we will upload as many of these maps as possible.
A PILGRIM RETURNS TO CAPE COD
by
EDWARD ROWE SNOW
AUTHOR OF
The Romance of Boston Bay; Storms of Shipwrecks of New England;
Pirates and Buccaneers of the Atlantic Coast;
Famous New England Lighthouses
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Contents
TABLE OF CONTENTS
ILLUSTRATIONS
THE CLIPPER SHIP STAFFORDSHIRE (Frontispiece)
KEEPER ELLIS AND HIS WIFE AT CAPE COD LIGHT
THE PROVINCETOWN MONUMENT
THE Spindler , THE MORNING AFTER SHE CAME ASHORE
THE Spindler , BEFORE SHE WENT TO PIECES
THE Longfellow , WHICH BLEW UP OFF CAPE COD
THE S-4 AT THE CHARLESTOWN NAVY YARD
CAPTAIN JOSIAH HARDY OF CHATHAM LIGHT
EMANUEL C. GRACIE, WHOSE HEROISM WAS IN VAIN
OPERATIONS OF THE DUCK AT CAPE COD
A JEEP AT RACE POINT
A BABY MOLLIGUT
PAINTING AT PROVINCETOWN
THE OLD FITCHBURG TERMINAL
THE JENNY LIND TOWER
WRECK OF THE Messenger
A WRECK AT EASTHAM
THE WRECK OF THE Jason
INDIANS ATTACKING CHAMPLAIN
GERTRUDE LAWRENCE AND EDWARD ROWE SNOW
THE WINDMILL OF CAPTAIN JAMES AREY
JAMES STUART SMITH WITH ANCIENT CANNON
AL GEORGE, BILL GEORGE, AND EDWARD ROWE SNOW
THE THREE SISTERS OF NAUSET
FRANCIS YOUNGS BULL, 1889
WRECK OF Kate Harding
WRECK OF THREE BARGES
THE GREAT BEACH NEAR NAUSET LIGHT
THE Charles Campbell
NAUSET COAST GUARD STATION
THE COAST GUARDSMAN AND HIS DOG
OLD FOLKS CONCERT
FOREST FIRE AT CAPE COD
THE TIMBERS OF THE Edith Nute
LAUNCHING OF THE Edith Nute
EXAMINING CAPE CODS FIRST NEWSPAPER
A PILGRIM RETURNS TO CAPE COD BY AIR
THE TWIN BABY CARRIAGE AT SANDWICH
BARNSTABLES SACRED COD
HANNAH REBECCA BURGESS AND WILLIAM BURGESS
THE DRAGGER Donald and Johnny
CAPE COD CANAL
A MASHPEE INDIAN CHIEFTAIN
THE Essex AND THE Castagna
PROFESSOR READY
WICHMERE HARBOR
FRED LANGS SANDY NECK LIGHT
GOOD WALTER ELDRIDGE IN DORY
THE SHIPWRECK HOUSE
EDWARD ROWE SNOW WITH PIECES OF EIGHT
GOOD WALTER ELDRIDGE
MEN OF CHATHAM AT UNCLE ANDREW HARDINGS STORE
OLD CHATHAM LIGHTS AROUND 1805
CHATHAM LIGHT, CAPE COD
DEDICATION
TO THE MEMORY OF
MY PILGRIM ANCESTORS
STEPHEN HOPKINS, NICHOLAS SNOW,
AND WILLIAM NICKERSON
PREFACE
Cape Cod has a universal appeal. A vacationland of Massachusetts, Cape Cod also attracts large numbers of visitors from Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, and New Jersey. People from every state in the Union come each summer to enjoy the sandy beaches, the rolling waves, and the great stretches of solitude.
This book, the result of an extended hiking tour around the Cape in the spring of 1946, is intended neither as a history nor a geographical treatise on the Cape. It is merely an account of what I did and what I found out during those seven weeks at the Cape. I did not stop at every house nor did I visit every section of every town, but I did gather enough material to write seven or eight hundred pages. Paper shortages cut the book down to slightly more than 400 pages. Nevertheless, the volume is the largest book on Cape Cod for over half a century.
Stories which I have already told in other volumes have either been omitted or summarized in this book.
Since writing my first volume in 1935 I have received approximately 26,000 letters from almost every country in the world. I am grateful to all who have written, and appreciate hearing from anyone who has either a question to ask or information of importance to give on the subject of New England coastal history.
There were several persons whose efforts helped the volume meet its publication date. Anna-Myrle, my wife, spent tedious hours reading copy. She deserves high praise. Professor Robert E. Moody again generously gave me vital assistance. My mother, Alice Rowe Snow, read many galley sheets and Anna-Myrles father, Louis Vern Haegg, worked long, weary hours typing and retyping my rewritten manuscript. Lillian Freeman also proved that she was a true friend. Alton Hall Blackington was generous with his advice. Nathan Krocks understanding help and patience were of great value. Charming Howard, with his intense love of Cape Cod history, was an inspiration.
There are others who should be mentioned whose names are inadvertently missing. To those I offer my apologies. I have tried to include everyone. In addition to those whose names appear in the text, I list the following who have helped me:
William Alcott, William Ayoub, Alice Powers Blackington, Dorothy Blanchard, James L. Bruce, Clarence S. Brigham, George S. Chapman, Harry Eaton Damon, Lieutenant John E. Day, U.S.C.G., Paul Dudley, Gertrude DeWager, John E. Ellis, Ruth Madelyn Fill, Ethel Haegg, Maud Hall, Francis F. Haskell, Marion Haskell, Vincent Holmes, Richard Kelsey, William Leshner, Isabell Q. Minot, Kathleen A. Monaghan, Joshua Nickerson, Walter E. Piper, Franklin Pierce, Captain Glenn Estep Prester, U.S.C.G., George Ruddell, Harold Sandstrom, Irwin Smith, John Gilchrest Snow, John I. Snow, Donald B. Snow, Harriet Swift, and John G. Weld.
Institutions which have co-operated include the Bostonian Society, the Boston Public Library, the Massachusetts Historical Society, the United States Coast Guard, the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities, the National Archives, the Suffolk Court House, the Boston Marine Society, the Harvard College Library, the Boston Athenaeum, the Peabody Museum, the Essex Institute, and the American Antiquarian Society.
I enjoyed to the utmost my seven weeks at Cape Cod. If the readers enjoyment of these pages is in any way proportional I shall feel amply repaid for all my hiking, interviewing, and writing.
