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A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope) Moncrieff - Bonnie Scotland

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(etext transcriber's note)
BONNIE SCOTLAND
That I for poor auld Scotlands sake,
Some usefu plan, or beuk could make.
Burns.

BENEATH THE CRAGS OF BEN VENUE, PERTHSHIRE
BENEATH THE CRAGS OF BEN VENUE, PERTHSHIRE
BONNIE SCOTLAND
PAINTED BY SUTTON
PALMER DESCRIBED BY
A. R. HOPE MONCRIEFF
PUBLISHED BY A. & C.
BLACKLONDONMCMXII

Published November 1904
Reprinted 1905, 1912
Note
THE author does not attempt elaborate word-pictures, that would seem pale beside the artists colouring. His design has been, as accompaniment to these beautiful landscapes, an outline of Scotlands salient features, with glimpses at its history, national character, and customs, and at the literature that illustrates this country for the English-speaking world. While taking the reader on a fireside tour through the varying airts of his native land, he has tried to show how its life, silken or homespun, is a tartan of more intricate pattern than appears in certain crude impressions struck off by strangers. And into his own web have been woven reminiscences, anecdotes, and borrowed brocade such as may make entertaining stripes and checks upon a groundwork of information. The mainland only is dealt with in this volume, which it is intended to follow up with another on the Highlands and Islands.
Contents
PAGE
The Borders
Auld Reekie
The Trossachs Round
The Kingdom of Fife
The Fair City
The Highland Line
Aberdeen Awa!
To John o Groats House
The Great Glen
Glasgow and the Clyde
The Whig Country
Galloway
List of Illustrations
Beneath the Crags of Ben Venue, Perthshire
FACING PAGE
Tantallon Castle, on Coast of Haddingtonshire
The Bass Rock, Firth of Forth, off Coast of Haddingtonshire
Neidpath Castle, Peeblesshire
Abbotsford, Roxburghshire
Melrose, Roxburghshire
Scotts favourite View from Bemerside Hill, Roxburghshire
Edinburgh from Rest and be Thankful
Edinburgh from Salisbury CragsEvening
Craigmillar Castle, near Edinburgh
Linlithgow Palace
The Bass RockA Tranquil Evening
Loch Achray, the Trossachs, Perthshire
Stirling Castle from the Kings Knot
The Outflow of Loch Katrine, Perthshire
In the Heart of the Trossachs, Perthshire
Brig o Turk and Ben Venue, Perthshire
Birches by Loch Achray, Perthshire
Head of Loch Lomond, looking up Glen Falloch, Perthshire
Golden Autumn, the Trossachs, Perthshire
The River Teith, with Lochs Achray and Vennachar, Perthshire
Veiled Sunshine, the Trossachs, Perthshire
Near Ardlui, Loch Lomond, Dumbartonshire
The Silver Strand, Loch Katrine, Perthshire
Loch Achray and Ben Venue, Perthshire
The Castle of St. Andrews, Fifeshire
Loch Lubnaig, Perthshire
In Glenfinlas, Perthshire
On the Dochart, Killin, Perthshire
Perth from the Slopes of Kinnoul Hill
Ben Aan, corner of Loch Katrine, Perthshire
Loch Vennachar, Perthshire
A Croft near Dalmally, Argyllshire
Wet Harvest Time near Dalmally, Argyllshire
The Grampians from Boat of Garten, Inverness-shire
Killin, Perthshire
A Moor near Killin, Perthshire
In Glenfinlas, Perthshire
Looking up Glen Lochay near Killin, Perthshire
Beneath the Slopes of Ben Ledi, near Callander, Perthshire
A Wild Spot, Killin, Perthshire
The Falls of Tummel, Perthshire
Dunkeld and Birnam from Craigiebarns, Perthshire
A Wooded Gorge, Killin, Perthshire
Looking up the Pass of Killiecrankie, Perthshire
Killin, Head of Loch Tay, Perthshire
Dunnottar Castle, Kincardineshire
Old Mar Bridge and Lochnagar, Aberdeenshire
Balmoral, Aberdeenshire
Strath Glass, Inverness-shire
A Peep of the Grampians, Inverness-shire
The River Glass near Beauly, Inverness-shire
Moor of Rannoch, Perthshire and Argyllshire
The Isles of Loch Maree, Ross-shire
Moor and Mountain, Ross-shire
Crags near Poolewe, Ross-shire
Inverness from near the Islands
Tomdoun, Glen Garry, Inverness-shire
A Shepherds Cot in Glen Nevis, Inverness-shire
River Awe flowing to Loch Etive, Argyllshire
A Croft near Taynuilt, Loch Etive, Argyllshire
Glencoe, Argyllshire
Garelochhead, Dumbartonshire
Glen Sannox, Isle of Arran
Loch Triochatan, Entrance to Glencoe, Argyllshire
Glen Rosa, Isle of Arran
The Falls of the Clyde, Lanarkshire
A Highland View
Kilchurn Castle, Loch Awe, Argyllshire
River Coe, Glencoe, Argyllshire
Ben Cruachan from Inverlochy, Argyllshire
The Morven Hills from Appin, Argyllshire
A Croft near Loch Etive, Argyllshire
A Birch-Wood in Springtime, by Loch Maree, Ross-shire
On the River Ayr, Ayrshire
BONNIE SCOTLAND
CHAPTER I
THE BORDERS
THE dawn broadens, the mists roll away to show a northward-bound traveller how his train is speeding between slopes of moorland, green and grey, here patched by bracken or bog, there dotted by wind-blown trees, everywhere cut by water-courses gathering into gentle rivers that can be furious enough in spate, when they hurl a drowned sheep or a broken hurdle through those valleys opening a glimpse of mansions and villages among sheltered woods. Are we still in England, or in what at least as far back as Cromwells time called itself Bonnie Scotland? It is as hard to be sure as to make out whether that cloudy knoll on the horizon is crowned by a peat-stack or by the stump of a Border peel.
Either bank of Tweed and Liddel has much the same aspects. An expert might perhaps read the look or the size of the fields. Could one get speech with that brawny corduroyed lad tramping along the furrows to his early job, whistling maybe, as if it would never grow old, an air from the London music-halls, the Southron might be none the wiser as to his nationality, though a fine local ear would not fail to catch some difference of burr and broad vowels, marked off rather by separating ridges than by any legal frontier, as the lilting twang of Liddesdale from the Teviot drawl. Healthily barefooted children, mores the pity, are not so often seen nowadays on this side of the Border, nor on the other, unless at Brightons and Margates. The Scotch bonnet, substantial headgear as it was, has vanished; the Scotch plaid, once as familiar on the Coquet as on the Tweed, is more displayed in shop windows than in moorland glens, now that over the United Kingdom reigns a dull monotony and uniformity of garb. Could we take the spectrum of those first wreaths of smoke curling from cottage chimneys, we might find traces of peat and porridge, yet also of coal and bacon. Yon red-locked lassie turning her open eyes up to the train from the roadside might settle the question, were we able to test her knowledge whether of the Shorter Catechism or of her Duty towards her Neighbour. It is only when the name of the first Scottish way-station whisks by, that we know ourselves fairly over the edge of Caledonia stern and wild; and our first thought may well be that this Borderland appears less stern than the grey crags of Yorkshire, and less wild than some bleak uplands of Northumberland.
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