Title: In Troubadour-Land A Ramble in Provence and Languedoc
Author: S. Baring-Gould
Release Date: September, 2005 [EBook #8819] [Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] [This file was first posted on August 10, 2003]
Edition: 10
Language: English
[Frontispiece: Tower of St. Trophimus, Arles.]
IN TROUBADOUR-LAND.
A Ramble in
Provence and Languedoc.
by
S. Baring-Gould, M.A.,
AUTHOR OF "MEHALAU," "JOHN HERRING," "OLD COUNTRY LIFE," ETC.
ILLUSTRATED BY J. E. ROGERS.
"What is this life, if it be not mixed with some delight? And what delight is more pleasing than to see the fashions and manners of unknown places? You know I am no common gadder, nor have oft troubled you with travell."Tom of Reading, 1600.
1891.
PREFACE.
With Murray, Bdeker, Guide Joanne, and half-a-dozen othersall describing, and describing with exactness, the antiquities and scenerythe writer of a little account of Provence and Languedoc is driven to give much of personal incident. When he attempts to describe what objects he has seen, he is pulled up by finding all the information he intended to give in Murray or in Bdeker or Joanne. If he was in exuberant spirits at the time, and enjoyed himself vastly, he is unable, or unwilling, to withhold from his readers some of the overflow of his good spirits. That is my apology to the reader. If he reads my little book when his liver is out of order, or in winter fogs and coldshe will call me an ass, and I must bear it. If he is in a cheerful mood himself, then we shall agree very well together.
S. BARING-GOULD.
LEW TRENCHARD, DEVON,
October 28, 1890.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTORY.
The Tiber in FloodTyphoid fever in RomeFlorenceA Jew acquaintanceDrinking in ProvenceBuying bric--brac with the Jewthe carro on Easter EveIts real OriginMy Jew friend's lettersItalian dolce far niente
CHAPTER II.
THE RIVIERA.
No ill without a counterbalancing advantageAn industry peculiar to ItalyItalian honestyBuffalo Bill at NaplesThe Prince and the straw-coloured glovesThe RivieraA tapestryNiceIts flowersNotre DameThe chteauMy gardenerA pension of ugly womenHorses and their hatsAntibesMeeting of Honor IV. and NapoleonThe GrimaldisLrins, an Isle of SaintsA family jarHealed
CHAPTER III.
FRJUS.
The freedman of PlinyForum JuliiThe Port of AgayThe Port of FrjusRoman castleAqueductThe lantern of AugustusThe cathedralCloistersBoy and dolphinStory told by PlinyThe Chains des MauresDsaugiersDines with the porkbutchers of ParisSiysSans phraseAgricolaHis discoveries
CHAPTER IV.
MARSEILLES.
The three islands Phoenice, Phila, IturiumMarseilles first a Phoenician colonyThe tariff of fees exacted by the priests of BaalThe arrival of the IoniansThe legend of Protis and GyptisSecond colony of IoniansThe voyages of Pytheas and EuthymenesCapture of Marseilles by TreboniusPosition of the Greek cityThe AcropolisGreek inscriptionsThe lady who never "jawed" her husbandThe tomb of the sailor-boyHtel des NgociantsMnuEntry of the President of the RepublicEntry of Francis I.The church of S. VincentThe cathedralNotre Dame de la GardeThe abbey of S. VictorCatacombsThe fable of S. Lazarus
CHAPTER V.
THE CRAU.
The Basin of BerreA neglected harbourThe diluviumFormation of the CrauThe two CrausCanal of CraponneClimate of the CrauThe bise and mistralForce of the windCypressesA vision of kobolds
CHAPTER VI.
LES ALYSCAMPS.
Difficulty of finding one's way about in ArlesThe two innsThe mistralThe charm of Arles is in the pastA dead citySituation of Arles on a nodule of limestoneThe Elysian FieldsA burial-place for the submerged neighbourhoodThe Alyscamp now in process of destructionExpropriation of ancient tombsAvenue of tombsOld church of S. HonorS. TrophimusS. VirgiliusAugustine, apostle of the English, consecrated by himThe flying DutchmanTomb of liaOf Julia TyrannaHer musical instrumentsMonument of CalpurniaHer probable storyMathematical versus classic studiesTombs of utricularesChristian sarcophagiProbably older than the date usually attributed to themA French author on the wreckage of the Elysian Fields
CHAPTER VII.
PAGAN ARLES.
The Arles race a mixture of Greek and GaulishThe colonisation by the RomansThe type of beauty in ArlesThe amphitheatreA bull-baitingProvenal bull-baits different from Spanish bull-fightsThe theatreThe ancient Greek stageThe destruction of the Arles theatreExcavation of the orchestraDiscovery of the Venus of ArlesA sick girlPalace of Constantine
CHAPTER VIII.
CHRISTIAN ARLES.
Sunday in FranceImproved observanceThe cathedral of ArlesWest frontInterior-Tool-marksA sermon on peaceThe cloistersOld Sacristan and his gardenNumber of desecrated churches in ArlesNotre Dame de la MajeurS. CsaireThe isles near ArlesCordesMontmajeurA gipsy campThe ruinsTowerThe chapel of S. Croix
CHAPTER IX.
LES BAUX.
The chain of the AlpinesThe promontory of Les BauxThe railway from Arles to SalonFirst sight of Les BauxThe churches of S. Victor, S. Claude, and S. AndrewThe lords of Les Baux claimed descent from one of the MagiThe fair maid with golden locksThe chapel of the White PenitentsThe demoHistory of the House of Les BauxThe barony passes to the GrimaldiThe ladies of Les Baux and the troubadoursFouquetWilliam de CabestaingThe morality of the loves of the troubadoursThe PorceletsStory of a siegeLes Baux a place of refuge for the citizens of ArlesGlanum LiviIts Roman remainsIn the trainJger garments
CHAPTER X.
THE CAMPAIGN OF MARIUS.
The TrmaRepresentation of C. Marius, Martha, and JuliaThe GaThe Teutons and Ambrons and Cimbri threaten ItalyC. Marius sent against themHis camp at S. GabrielThe canal he cutThe barbarians cross the RhoneFirst brush with themThey defile before him at OrgonThe rout of the Ambrons at Les MillesHe follows the TeutonsThe plain of PourriresPosition of MariusThe battleSlaughter of the TeutonsPosition of their campMonument of MariusVenus VictrixAnnual commemoration
CHAPTER XI.
TRETS AND GARDANNE.
The fortifications of TretsThe streetsThe churchRoman sarcophagusChteau of TretsVisit to a self-educated archologistHis collection made on the battle-fieldDispute over a pot of burnt bonesOne magpieGardanneThe churchA vielleTrouble with itStory of an executioner's sword
CHAPTER XII.
AIX.
Dooll, but the mutton goodLes Bains de SextiusIronwork caps to towersS. Jean de MaltheMuseumCathedralTapestries and tombsThe cloistersView from S. EutropeKing Ren of AnjouHis misfortunesHis cheerinessHis statue at AixIntroduces the Muscat grape
CHAPTER XIII.
THE CAMARGUE.
Formation of the delta of the RhoneThe diluvial washThe alluvium spread over thisThe three stages the river pursuesThe zone of erosionThe zone of compensationThe zone of depositRiver mouthsEstuaries and deltasThe formation of barsOf lagoonsThe lagoons of the Gulf of LyonsThe ancient position of Arles between the river and the lagoonsNeglect of the lagoons in the Middle AgesThey become morassesAttempt at remedyEmbankments and drainsA mistake madeThe Camargue now a desertLes Saintes MariesNo evidence to support the legendBased on a misapprehension
