Albert Frederick Calvert - Southern Spain, Painted by Trevor Haddon, Described by A. F. Calvert

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SOUTHERN SPAIN
PAINTED BY TREVOR
HADDON DESCRIBED
BY A. F. CALVERT PUB
LISHED BY A. & C. BLACK
LONDON MCMVIII

colophon

PREFACE

FEW travellers have leisure enough to traverse the wide realm of tawny Spain in its every part. Those who must confine their attention to a single province naturally select Andalusia, where all the Northerner's preconceptions of the South find realization. The wild scenery of Southern Spain, the gay open-air life of the people, the monuments attesting the splendour of the extinct civilization of the Moor, the spell of romance which still holds its cities, makes this land one of the most interesting and fascinating in Europe to the artist, the archologist, and the dreamer.

The present volume, mainly the embodiment of personal impressions and observations, is intended partly to supply the place of a guide-book to this part of the Peninsula, and with that object I have brought together as much of history, art, and topography as the traveller is likely to assimilate. Into the descriptive matter I have introduced a little gossip, which will, I hope, be not found altogether irrelevant, and may serve to beguile the tedium of a bare recital of facts.

While I have endeavoured to make the book as useful to travellers as within the prescribed limits was possible, I have essayed to give it, by means of the illustrations, a more permanent value. It is on the brush rather than on the pen that I have relied to convey an idea of the gorgeous panorama of Southern Spain, and to recall to the returned traveller his impressions of the land.

As a vade-mecum, then, for the tourist, and as an album and souvenir of the fairest portion of the realm of the Catholic King, I hope that the present volume will be of use to the public, despite the shortcomings it doubtless contains. For rendering these as few as possible, I have to thank several friends who have looked through the proofs. To one in particular, Mr. E. B. d'Auvergne, I am indebted for various scraps of original and entertaining information.

A. F. CALVERT.

CONTENTS
PAGE
CADIZ
SevilleTHE PEARL OF ANDALUSIA
CORDOVA
GRANADA
MALAGA
THE WAY SOUTH
THE KINGDOM OF MURCIA
IN THE OLD KINGDOM OF VALENCIA

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
CordovaFountain in the Patio de los Naranjos
PAGE
Ayamonte (The Gateway of Andalusia)
SevilleA Street
SevilleThe Aceite Gate
SevilleA Courtyard
SevilleThe Torre del Oro and the Cathedral
SevilleThe Giralda
SevilleGardens of the Alcazar
SevilleGardens of the Alcazar
SevillePatio de las Banderas
SevilleGardens of the Alcazar
SevilleInterior of the Cathedral
SevillePatio de los Naranjos
SevillePlaza de San Fernando
SevilleCasa de Pilatos
SevilleCasa de Pilatos
SevilleGarden of the Casa de Pilatos
SevilleThe Market Place
CordovaA Courtyard
CordovaEntrance to the City
CordovaCalle Cardinal Herrera
CordovaMoorish Mill
CordovaMezquita
CordovaPatio de los Naranjos
CordovaOuter Wall of the Mosque
CordovaA Street Scene
CordovaA Street
CordovaThe Bridge
CordovaCourtyard of an Inn
CordovaOld Houses near the River
GranadaFrom the Generalife
GranadaSierra Nevada from the Alhambra Gardens
GranadaExterior of the Alhambra
GranadaA Street in the Albaicin
GranadaIn the Market
GranadaThe Alhambra: The Aqueduct
GranadaThe Court of the Cypresses
GranadaVilla on the Darro
GranadaThe Alhambra from San Miguel
GranadaTowers of the Infantas, Alhambra
GranadaNear the Alhambra
GranadaPuerta del Vino, Alhambra
GranadaThe Alhambra: Tower of Comares
GranadaThe Court of the Lions: Moonlight
GranadaThe Generalife: Patio de la Acequia
GranadaThe Generalife: Court of the Cypresses
GranadaTocador de la Reina
GranadaTorre de las Damas
GranadaThe Generalife: Court of the Cypresses
GranadaCasa del Carbon
GranadaStreet in the Albaicin
GranadaInterior of a Posada
GranadaOld Houses, Cuesta del Pescado
GranadaOld Ayuntamiento
GranadaStreet in the Old Quarter
GranadaThe Generalife: Patio de la Acequia
GranadaA Corner in the Old Quarter
MalagaThe Harbour
MalagaThe Guadalmedina
MalagaA Market
MalagaPacking Lemons
RondaThe Tajo
RondaRoman Bridges
RondaAt the Fountain
RondaA Moorish Gateway
RondaA Street Scene
RondaThe Market
Orihuela on the River Segura
ElcheA Street
A Fisher Girl (Coast of Malaga)
A Water Carrier
MalagaA Picador
ValenciaSanta Catalina
An Andalusian Dance
Courting

The Illustrations in this Volume have been engraved and printed in England by
THE MENPES PRESS, London and Watford

SOUTHERN SPAIN

CHAPTER I
CADIZ

CADIZ was the prettiest of all the towns of Spain, thought Byron. I would rather say that she was the most beautiful. She rises out of the seathe boundless salt ocean that stretches from pole to poleand the crests of the waves which lick her feet are not whiter than her walls. And these by day are bathed in liquid gold, for the sun seems to linger here ere he says good-night to Europe. By night the city gleams like washed silver, and her sheen is more magical than that of the dark yet phosphorescent water. Of sun and sea, light and air, is Cadiz compounded. She is the Gateway of the West, not sultry and southern, but salt and windy and dazzling white. It is thus she appears to you, especially when you come to her over the seathat sea which hereabouts has so often been splashed with British blood. How often the pale yellow cliffs of Spain to the southward, and those of the lovely shore of Algarve to the north, have reverberated with the booming of the cannon; how often the strand has been littered with dead men, whose gaping wounds the kindly ocean had washed clean! Browning's lines recur to the memory:

"Nobly, nobly Cape St. Vincent to the north-west died away,

Sunset ran, one glorious blood-red, reeking into Cadiz Bay."

For you can see the lighthouse on Cape Trafalgar, and the Bay of Cadiz itself has been the scene of some of England's most glorious and desperate feats of arms. There is little stirring now in the wide harbour, where the ships ride lazily at anchor, and their crews crowd to the bulwarks and exchange pleasantries with your boatman as he pulls you towards the quay. And so you step on shore, and enter the fair city.

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