lieutenant-colonel (Ninian) Pinkney - Travels through the South of France and the Interior of Provinces of Provence and Languedoc in the Years 1807 and 1808

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TRAVELS

THROUGH

THE SOUTH OF FRANCE,

AND

IN THE INTERIOR OF THE PROVINCES

OF

PROVENCE AND LANGUEDOC,

IN THE YEARS 1807 AND 1808,

BY A ROUTE NEVER BEFORE PERFORMED,
BEING ALONG THE BANKS OF

THE LOIRE, THE ISERE, AND THE GARONNE,

THROUGH THE GREATER PART OF THEIR COURSE.

MADE BY PERMISSION OF THE FRENCH GOVERNMENT.

BY LIEUTENANT-COLONEL PINKNEY,

OF THE NORTH AMERICAN NATIVE RANGERS.

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR T. PURDAY AND SON, NO. 1, PATERNOSTER-ROW,
AND TO BE HAD OF ALL BOOKSELLERS:
BY B. McMILLAN, BOW STREET, COVENT GARDEN.
1809.

---

CONTENTS.

.
Anxiety to see FranceDeparture from BaltimoreSingular
Adventures of the CaptainCharacterEmployment during
the VoyageArrival at LiverpoolStayDeparture for Calais
.
Morning View of PortArrival and landingA Day at CalaisFrench
Market, and Prices of Provisions
.
Purchase of a Norman HorseVisit in the CountryFamily of
a French GentlemanElegance of French domestic EconomyDance
on the GreenReturn to Calais
.
French CottagesLudicrous ExhibitionFrench TravellersChaise
de PostePosting in FranceDeparture from CalaisBeautiful
Vicinity of Boulogne
.
BoulogneDress of the InhabitantsThe PierTheatreCaution
in the Exchange of MoneyBeautiful Landscape, and
Conversation with a French VeteranCharacter of Mr.
Parker's HotelDeparture, and romantic RoadFte Champetre
in a Village on a Hill at MontreuilRuined Church and
Convent
.
Departure from MontreuilFrench ConscriptsExtreme YouthExcellent
RoadsCountry LabourersCourt for the Claims
of EmigrantsAbbevilleCompanion on the RoadAmiens
.
General Character of the TownPublic WalkGardensHalf-yearly
FairGaining HousesTable d'HtesEnglish at
AmiensExpence of Living
.
French and English Roads comparedGaiety of French LabourersBreteuilApple-trees
in the midst of Corn-fieldsBeautiful
SceneryCheap Price of Land in FranceClermontBad
Management of the French FarmersChantilly-Arrival
at Paris
.
A Week in ParisObjects and OccurrencesNational LibraryA
French RoutFashionable French SupperConceitsPresentation
at CourtAudience
.
Departure from Paris for the LoireBreakfast at PalaiseauA
Peasant's WifeRambouilletMagnificent ChateauFrench
CurChartresDifference of Old French and English
TownsSubterraneous ChurchCurious Preservation of
the DeadAngersArrival at Nantes
.
NantesBeautiful SituationAnalogy of Architecture with the
Character of its AgeSingular Vow of Francis the SecondDeparture
from NantesCountry between Nantes and AngersAngers
.
AngersSituationAntiquity and Face of the TownGrand
CathedralMarketsPrices of ProvisionsPublic WalksManners
and Diversions of the InhabitantsDeparture from
AngersCountry between Angers and SaumurSaumur
ToursSituation and general Appearance of itOrigin of the
Name of HuguenotsCathedral Church of St. MartinThe
QuayMarketsPublic WalkClasses of InhabitantsEnvironsExpences
of LivingDeparture from ToursCountry
between Tours and Amboise
.
Lovely Country between Amboise and BloisEcuresBeautiful
VillageFrench HarvestersChousiVillage InnBloisSituationChurchMarketPrice
of Provisions
.
Houses in Chalk HillsMagnificent Castle at ChambordReturn
from Chambord by Moon-lightSt. Laurence on the
Waters
.
Comparative Estimate of French and English Country InnsTremendous
Hail StormCountry MasqueradeLa CharitBeauty
and Luxuriance of its EnvironsNeversFille-de-ChambreLovely
Country between Nevers and Moulins-Treading
CornMoulinsPrice of Provisions
.
Country between Moulins and RouaneBresleAccount of the
Provinces of the Nivernois and BourbonnoisClimateFace
of the CountrySoilNatural ProduceAgricultural ProduceKitchen
GardenFrench YeomenLandlordsPrice
of LandLeasesGeneral Character of the French Provincial
Farmers
.
LyonsTown-HallHotel de DieuManufactoriesPrice of
ProvisionsState of SocietyHospitality to StrangersMannersMode
of LivingDepartureVienneFrench Lovers
.
AvignonSituationClimateStreets and HousesPublic
BuildingsPalaceCathedralPetrarch and LauraSociety
at AvignonLadiesPublic Walks-Prices of ProvisionsMarkets
.
Departure from AvignonOlive and Mulberry FieldsOrgonSt.
CanatFrench DivorcesInn at St. CanatAixSituationCathedralSocietyProvisionsPrice
of LandMarseillesConclusion

---

A

TOUR,

&c. &c.

---

Anxiety to see FranceDeparture from BaltimoreSingular
Adventures of the CaptainCharacterEmployment during
the VoyageArrival at LiverpoolStayDeparture for Calais.

From my earliest life I had most anxiously wished to visit Francea country which, in arts and science, and in eminent men, both of former ages and of the present times, stands in the foremost rank of civilized nations. What a man wishes anxiously, he seldom fails, at one period or other, to accomplish. An opportunity at length occurredthe situation of my private affairs, as well as of my public duties, admitted of my absence.

I embarked at Baltimore for Liverpool in the month of April, 1807. The vessel, which was a mere trader, and which had likewise some connexions at Calais, was to sail for Liverpool in the first instance, and thence, after the accomplishment of some private affairs, was to pass to Calais, and thence home. I do not profess to understand the business of merchants; but I must express my admiration at the ingenuity with which they defy and elude the laws of all countries. I suppose, however, that this is considered as perfectly consistent with mercantile honour. Every trader has a morality of his own; and without any intention of depreciating the mercantile class, so far I must be allowed to say, that the merchants are not very strict in their morality. Trade may improve the wealth of a nation, but it most certainly does not improve their morals.

The Captain with whom I sailed was a true character. Captain Eliab Jones, as he related his history to me, was the son of a very respectable clergyman in the West of England. His mother died when he was a boy about twelve years of age, leaving his father with a very large family. The father married again. Young Eliab either actually was, or fancifully believed himself to be, ill-treated by his step-mother. Under this real or imaginary suffering he eloped from his father's house; and making the best of his way for a sea-port, bound himself apprentice to the master of a coasting vessel. In this manner he continued to work, to use his own expressions, like a galley-slave for five years, when he obtained the situation of mate of an Indiaman. He progressively rose, till he happened unfortunately to quarrel with his Captain, which induced him to quit the service of the Company. In the course of his voyages to India, and in the Indian seas, he made what he thought an important discovery relative to the southern whale fishery: he communicated it to a mercantile house upon his return, and was employed by them in the speculation. He now, however, became unfortunate for the first time: his ship was wrecked off the island of Olaheite, and the crew and himself compelled to remain for two or three years on that barbarous but beautiful island.

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