Introduction
M y escape, when I need to stop thinking about jewelry (or think about it some more) is a 300-acre Victorian walking park nearby, where even the beauty of bijoux fades amid weeping willows, old stone bridges over gurgling brooks, and lamplight against sunsets burning red deeper than rubies. Why do these old pleasure grounds come to mind here? Because an owl family with newborns moved into a tall evergreen there last winter (bird watchers went wild every time they hooted and cooed) at exactly the same time I was watching another owl family in my favorite antiques mall.
Signed Kramer Owl/Snake pin gold-toned metal. Layered petal-like discs for owls eye area. Green bullet cabochons and tiny clear chatons with inverted pear-shaped stone for owls head piece. The snake is articulated and covered in tiny clear chatons. 1950s. 3. $150
Jewelry courtesy Beth Silta; photo by Ross Englund
Two stunning sterling fur clips, with matching earrings like babies, comprise a famous family well-known as Hoots, made by famed Coro designer Adolph Katz. The jewelry world is full of owls, but this 1940s Duette set is special, just like it was to see a live owl family each day. The thrill of natural beauty and great jewelry are almost equally exciting, whether you find it out in the field in the great outdoors or the great indoors.
Hoots owl set, two fur clips (missing Duette brooch mechanism), matching owl earrings; deep-red crystal stones, clear brilliants, signed Sterling and Coro-Craft, 1944, 2 1/2. $150-$200
Jewelry courtesy Kate Douglas; Fotografia Gregorino
This is a book to keep handy for drawing your sights on everything from rare birds of a feather that don't flock together, creatures with features that defy jewelry physics, eye candy in the form of gems, black to green, and materials from lava to shagreen.
So, see you out there, frolicking in the field.
Kathy Flood
Enameled owls pin, sterling silver and marcasites, 1960s, signed Alice Caviness, Germany, Sterling Silver, signed version rarer than unsigned version, 1 1/4. $125
Vintage owls necklace, gold-plated links with 30 jade-green resin owl pendant charms, each 1 1/4, total length 36. Unsigned, 1970s. $100
Owl ring with golden mother of pearl crescent moon, 18k rose gold, 1.46 carat weight in 82 full-cut black diamonds, nine round white diamonds totaling .06 carats, 4mm pink tourmaline eyes totaling .57carats, additional champagne diamonds on side of band, 7/8. $1,995
Jewelry courtesy HeavenlyTreasures.com
Fads: Trend or Classic
R ight now (late summer 2010), four jewelry fads include snakes, huge double-shank rings, hand rings and feather earrings. In the guessing game, Fad, Trend or Classic? snakes are an easy call. They're already classics, just back for an encore appearance. So if snakes are a passion, it was smart to stock up on some of the slithery reptiles that crawled across your path (especially by such hot names as Alexis Bittar).
Vintage cobra pendant necklace, likely from Accessocraft, Kenneth J. Lane or Hattie Carnegie, companies that created over-sized Egyptian lines of jewelry. Probably at retail during one of two King Tut exhibition tours in the 1960s and '70s. Cobra is huge and dimensional, head raised above body, tail curling back. (Head and body separately attached, with head and tail riveted and soldered on.) Gold-plated metal is enameled coral, turquoise and lapis/cobalt; two round large glossy beads in deep blue lapis or cobalt as eyes. Unsigned, 4 3/4 pendant, 18 1/2 chain. $295
Feather earrings, dyed red bird feathers with small peacock feather accent, feathers attached below red acrylic discs with rhinestone overlay, for pierced ears, 4 1/2, unsigned, 2010. $25
Hand rings make another easy call: too uncomfortable and awkward to develop true staying power. Ridiculously rambunctious finger rings prove a tougher bet. For pretty hands, all that jewelry spanning multiple fingers draws attention there, but they can drive you crazy if unaccustomed to so much jewelry.
In general, when out in the field buying for re-sale, don't pass up a fad piece if it's outrageous enough, or a classic fad such as Mood rings. As for one-time fads that move on to trend and then classic status, how many tennis bracelets and Y necklaces are already out there to compete with? Keep an eye on hot trends in the fashion mags and hold on to what seem like surefire fads.