Gabrielle Yetter - The definitive guide to moving to Southeast Asia: Cambodia

Cambodia is a square-shaped country of 14 million people, bordered by Vietnam in the southeast and east, Thailand in the west and northwest, and Laos in the northeast. The coastal regions in the south and west border the Gulf of Thailand, and the mighty Mekong River (the 12 th longest river in the world) traverses the country from north to south.

There isnt much elevation in the country, as the highest mountain measures only 1,771 metres and is located in the eastern part of the Cardamom Mountains (running across the southwest of the country). These mountains are lush and covered with virgin rainforest, spanning a range of more than one million hectares - said to represent Southeast Asias greatest natural resource. Within this mountain range are hundreds of birds, plants, and animal species, including elephants, pleated gibbons, and Siamese crocodiles, as well as excellent opportunities for hiking, trekking, and boating.

Farther north, the Siem Reap region is dominated by the enormous Tonle Sap, which is known as Cambodias Great Lake - responsible for more than 70 percent of the countrys protein since it is a major source of fish. Located 15km south of the town, this body of water measures 2,500 sq km in the dry season and swells to 12,000 sq. km in the rainy season, making it one of the largest freshwater lakes in Asia. The lake drains into the Tonle Sap River which meanders southeast, eventually merging with the Mekong at Phnom Penh.

One of the fascinations about this river is that during the wet season, a unique phenomenon occurs causing the river to reverse direction, filling the lake instead of draining it. This happens when the Mekong becomes bloated with snow melt from China and Tibet as well as runoff from the monsoon rains during the wet season, and backs up into the Tonle Sap River at the point where the rivers meet in Phnom Penh. This forces the waters of the Tonle Sap back upriver into the lake. If youre in Phnom Penh at this time (sometime in November), youll actually observe a difference between one day and the next when the river has changed direction.

Wherever you travel throughout Cambodia, youll always see one thing: rice fields. Approximately 80 percent of the countrys population lives in rural areas, and 71 percent depend primarily on agriculture (largely rice) for their livelihood.

While most of the country consists of flat plains, there are wonderful sights to behold when travelling across it. Youll see workers planting rice in the paddies, buffaloes bathing in mud puddles, lush vegetation (during rainy season) in the mountains of the northeast, huge lakes for swimming, jungles for trekking, and islands for exploring.

Some of the more popular places to visit include:

Siem Reap. Home of the magnificent Angkor Wat temple complex a jaw-dropping collection of ancient ruins, some of which date back to the 9 th century. Siem Reap is the area most visited by tourists in Cambodia, so its best to go during the off season (rainy season) or mid-week if you dont want it to be overrun with crowds. I also find it best to visit the temples in the midday heat of the day (when everyone runs for shade or goes for lunch) or late in the afternoon just before they close at 5 or 6pm (depending on the temple) if you want to share it with fewer people. In addition to the temples, the town of Siem Reap has a wonderful, lively energy, bursting with restaurants, bars, spas, and markets - and theres plenty to do for at least several days.

Hot tip : Visit the Silk Farm on the outskirts of town for a glimpse into the entire process of silk making, from worm to loom.

Kep. This little seaside town on the south coast is one of our favourite weekend getaways. Firstly, its an easy 3 hour bus ride from Phnom Penh. Secondly, theres not a lot to do so its a great place to relax, lie in a hammock, or watch the sunset. Its not a place for nightlife, shopping, or tourist attractions, as its a sleepy haven with some of the best crab youll ever taste. There are a handful of places to stay - and its also the kick-off point for the 30-minute boat trip to Rabbit Island.

Hot tip : Take a hike into the Kep National Park while it is still rugged and unspoiled (there are plans to build a road through it).

Rabbit Island . There are a number of islands off the Cambodian coast, but Rabbit Island is the easiest to get to. The half-hour boat ride from Kep ($7 if you share a boat) takes you to this tiny island, occupied only by a handful of beach huts (which you can rent for less than $10/night) and a few local restaurants on the sand .