The Fashion File: Advice, Tips, and Inspiration from the Costume Designer of Mad Men

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Copyright 2010 by Janie Bryant

Illustrations copyright 2010 by Robert Best

Designed by Hoffman Creative

For photography credits and copyright information, see .

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Grand Central Life & Style

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First e-book edition: October 2010

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ISBN 978-0-446-58262-9

I remember my first fitting with Janie for Mad Men. I had just had a long conversation with executive producer Mathew Weiner about the role of Betty, and how she was going to be in therapy and have physical issues as a result of her anxiety, and it was all very daunting and new for me. So when I walked in for my fitting I was panicking a bit about portraying such a complex character. But Janies enthusiasm and passion for the clothes and the time period helped renew my own passion and, after seeing all of Bettys wardrobe, I trusted Janie completely. We bonded in our mutual respect for fashion and storytelling through the amazing 60s garments she uses on the show.

As an actor playing a role in a period piece, its a big cheat to arrive on set each day in your every-day clothes and, an hour and a half later, be transformed by hair, makeup, and wardrobe. And Janie doesnt leave anything out. From the girdle, long-line bras, stockings, and petticoats, you feel like a different person before ever uttering a line. All those elements contribute to making me feel, walk, and posture as Betty.

Janie gets very emotional when everything comes together. On occasion I have had to plead with her not to cry when shes seen the finished result. Its so inspiring to see someone care that much about her work and the real art that is what she does. On a show as stylized as Mad Men thats important to the honesty of the storytelling and to the actors. There have been very few times Ive questioned her judgment, but when I have, shes just said in her delicate

To my childhood babysitter Karen McKinley Smith, who helped me make my first dress at the age of eight. To my Mom, who always taught me the importance of being a lady and so much more. To my Gran Gran, who shared my love of roses, dolls, beauty, and fashion. And to Monica, my style mate.

Janie

To my hero and husband, Gadi. And to Janie B., for countless cups of tea and the many laughs along the way.

Monica

Its a huge cheat as an actor to be able to go to the set in the morning in your jeans and then get in your costume.

In my personal life, I like to take risks with all kinds of different fashions. I dont think I have a specific style. Every day I wake up and dress the part, which is fun.

January Jones on the red carpet at the 2010 Golden Globes.

Southern accent, January, youre going to love it. Just wait! And I always do.

I think one of the hugest compliments to Janies work on Mad Men is how it has inspired modern fashion. Michael Kors was one of the first to come out with a Mad Meninspired collection. Were suddenly seeing a waistline again and the silhouettes of the 50s and early 60s. Im happily surprised to see women dressing like women again; a feminine tribute through tailoring.

Im always most excited to see what Janies going to wear. She can take pieces from any decade and make them look modern.

A vintage gold bracelet with porcelain flowers, given to Janie by January.

Janie is a firm believer that you dont have to spend a lot of money to look fabulous. You can find something vintage and alter it and make it really special. Im always excited to see what Janies wearing. You cant pinpoint her style because its different every day, but modernizing a garment from any decade, whether it be with accessories or just the look in her eye, is her gift. She nails it every time.

I have learned from Janie to take risks in what I wear. I cant say I have a specific style, I just know which silhouettes compliment my frame. My advice is to just make sure you wear it and that the garment doesnt wear you. Finding something special and unique in a vintage store has become a sport for me. Even if a piece may seem a bit outlandish, as long as you feel confident and beautiful in it, its a risk worth taking

Thank you, Janie Bryant, for inspiring not only me, but the world over with your dedication to fashion and storytelling.

When I was five years old and growing up in Tennessee, all I wanted to do was wear high heels. It was my dream. The first time I played dress-up, I slipped into my mothers black patent-leather pumps and her full-length black slip with the lace bodice. Very Elizabeth Taylor of me. I topped it off and accessorized with a sixties floral mod cap with a ruffle brim and big white sunglasses. Never mind that I could stride in two-inch heels like a lady. Even back then, the transformative power of a costume awed me.

Nowadays, that magical metamorphosis consumes my day-to-day life as a costume designer. My process on Mad Men always starts with a script, which I read several times to get a sense of the characters dialogue, color palette, and silhouette. Someone as fiery as Joan Holloway, for instance, will wear mostly bold, solid jewel tones like emerald green and purple. Peggy Olson, whos more perky and complex, gets a parochial wardrobe of plaids and pleats.

Once Ive made some notes, I research old photos to get a better image of the time period. Shots of Cary Grant and Gregory Peck help inspire Don Drapers look, while Marilyn Monroe and Sophia Loren are models for Joan. Next I sketch the ensembles and add hue with watercolors. My cutter-fitter drapes the muslin on the dress forms and then creates paper patterns, which eventually create the shape of the fabrics that are cut and sewn into the actual pencil skirts, cocktail dresses, and suits.