There are many books on the market about mens style. Youcan go to any bookstore and be greeted by 5 or so, all virtually identical, allpromising a definitive guide to dressing well.
What they dont tell you, however, is that they mean todress you in a very specific way; the kind of style that looks great in theoffice or at a dinner party, but little elsewhere.
What book is there that tells you how to have a cool, casualstreet style? What book shows you how to roll the sleeves on a blazer, or howto layer a casual jacket beneath a formal coat? For those who want a guide thatskews away from a very broad assertion of how a man should look, there isvery little on offer.
Conservative styles have been developed over hundreds ofyears to effortlessly flatter a mans body. As such, mens style books tend tobelieve that every man who is learning about style should begin by dressingconservatively.
Once a man understands the fundamentals of style, hell oftenbegin to feel quite restricted. Hell begin to crave deviation; to experimentwith clothes in a way that truly makes a statement. For some, this means honinga keen appreciation for suits, ties, pocket squares and fine tailoring; forothers, it means ditching a corporate style and crafting something entirelyunique.
There are no clear-cut rules on what the right clothes arefor any specific man. But this book aims to give you all the necessary tools tobuild a style that is, above all else, yours.
Introduction
My day job is personal styling. That is, I work with men ofall ages, shapes, sizes and budgets and help them find clothes that fit their body,their lifestyle and their personality.
During these consultations, I need to learn as much about myclients as possible; what they do for fun, what kind of clothes they currentlywear, even things as seemingly-innocuous as the kind of books they read or thekind of music theyre drawn to. All of this helps to narrow down the bestdirection to take their style. The easiest way to do this is to simply visitthe clients house not only to assess their current wardrobe, but also to geta sense of their possessions and surroundings.
Often, Im caught off-guard like the time I visited aclient who dressed quite conservatively, only to find that his house was aquasi-bondage-chamber. Another surprising house call was for a client in hislate-teens a 6-figure-a-year poker champion living in a penthouse apartment who owned no furniture, no cutlery and no clothes save for a baggy pair ofjeans and an old green t-shirt.
Enter John (name changed for confidentiality purposes). John was a young guy, 21, who wanted a dapper, suave and mature style. When hewalked into a room, he wanted people to think This guys in control.
As soon as he said this, I knew I was in for a challenge.Not only did he have a young and chubby face, but he was also socially awkwardand unaware of social propriety. Far removed from dapper,suave and mature.
But Im always up for a challenge, and I had some greatthings planned for John that I thought would help him look great and becomemore confident.
When I visited his room I was shocked. A single bed, adornedwith racing car bed sheets; bikini-clad Ralph and Maxim posters all overthe walls; a fine layer of dust coating everything in sight.
This is the gent who wanted to be suave, cool and mature.
I had an honest talk with him and relayed a sentiment that Inow share with every one of my clients:
Dressing well, being charming, having confidence, having astrong sense of style none of this is about the clothes you wear. Niceclothes dont automatically make you better than anyone else, nor do theysuddenly give you something that you didnt have before. Being a well-dressed,modern man is not a mask that you put on in the morning and take off at night;it has to envelop every part of you.
I asked John to imagine Sean Connerys James Bond, a character who exemplified his ideal John. Imaginehim, all suave and cool, charming people wherever he goes. Now imagine himcoming home to a bedroom with FHM posters on the wall and racing car bedsheets. It would simply never happen.
Being a modern man requires confidence, self-control,respect and charm. These arent attributes that this book can magically providefor you; you have to learn them for yourself.
But I can sure as hell make you look good while you do it.
CHAPTER1:
How do you want to look?
Believe it or not, this is a question that very few men everask themselves. I just want to look like me! they say but what does thatreally mean?
Every man should dress in a way that suits his job, his bodytype and his tastes. Very few high-flying corporate superstars want to dress ina relaxed urban streetwear style, and very few heavymetal-loving men want to dress in conservative business suits. The goal is tofind a style that compliments your personality and lifestyle.
Here are some simple questions to get you started:
- Do I have to dress a particular way for work?
- What do I want to my clothes to say about me?
- When I walk into a room, how do I want people to feel about me?
- Are there any styles that I plainly dont like?
- What men (if any) do I want to model myself on?
Your answers are entirely personal; everyone is different,and everyone has unique characteristics that they want to present to the world.I suggest that you write them down or at the very least, keep them in mind asyou read this book.
The next step is to decide on a style that fits the answersyouve given above. These are generic styles, and you may find that acombination of styles fits you better than just one. A few examples ofdifferent styles include:
Formal
Businesscasual
Preppy
Dapper
Schoolboy
Mod
OutdoorAdventurer
Casual streetwear
Darkand drapey
Metal
Punk
Fashion-forward
GothNinja
Most men arent defined by one particular style. This is whyversatility is key ; a mans wardrobe should be full ofclothes that can be worn in a variety of styles, rather than forcing him todress one way for the rest of his life.
Aside from looking introspectively, there are two simplequestions that we can use to determine the best way to compliment your bodytype:
Do I see myself as short, average or tall?