Dominique Ansel - Dominique Ansel: The Secret Recipes

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Simon & Schuster

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New York, NY 10020

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Copyright 2014 by Dominique Ansel

All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce this book or portions thereof in any form whatsoever. For information address Simon & Schuster Subsidiary Rights Department, 1230 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10020.

First Simon & Schuster hardcover edition October 2014

SIMON & SCHUSTER and colophon are registered trademarks of Simon & Schuster, Inc.

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Interior design by Suet Yee Chong

Jacket design by Marilyn Dantes

Jacket photograph by Thomas Schauer

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Ansel, Dominique (Chef)

Dominique Ansel : the secret recipes / foreword by Daniel Boulud.

pages cm

1. Pastry. I. Boulud, Daniel. II. Title.

TX773.A456 2014

641.865dc23

2014024377

ISBN 978-1-4767-6419-1

ISBN 978-1-4767-6421-4 (ebook)

TO A.
FROM A CASE OF CHERRIES
TO A LIFE OF CHEERING,
YOU INSPIRE ME EVERY DAY.
D.

I am proud to contribute to Dominiques first book, not only as a former employer and longtime friend, but, more important, because I like to think we both share a special kinship as dreamers. Great chefs dont ask Why? They ask Why not? They arent afraid of a challenge and they arent afraid to break the rules. But they also have the technical training necessary to play with recipes while intuitively knowing which crucial steps should not be sacrificed. Dominique has demonstratedand will continue to demonstratethese exceptional qualities.

While he was the pastry chef at Daniel, Dominique challenged us to experiment more. He often tapped into our savory pantry or looked to other cultures for inspiration. He was the first to introduce to the pastry menu elements like basil seeds, olive oil powder, horchata ice cream, and shiso sorbet. His talent was in reaching afar for something exciting and then working until it made sense within our determinedly French menu.

He approached classic American flavors with the naive curiosity of a student in his first cooking class. Why do the combinations of peanut butter and chocolateor Key lime and graham crackerget people so excited?

However, he also respected certain recipes and kept them as they were. Our magical madeleine, for example: that simply cannot change, because it has become so iconic to our customers, who have committed its taste and texture to memory.

I remember when Dominique was ready to branch out on his own. As a chef-owner, I always focus on our own program, but I strongly support the talent of my team members. I was happy to see that he could make his dreams come true on his own. Like all of our former pastry chefs, he has left an imprint that will be remembered.

When Dominique opened his pastry shop in SoHo, he jumped from managing a ten-item pastry menu with one service to an all-day menu consisting of viennoiseries , pastries, desserts, cookies, candies, sandwiches, and more. His passion for constant improvement is palpable, whether its on the classics that he has practiced since his very first job in Paris, or on the creations he discovered while on his global travels. I am pleased that Dominique has continued to represent the DNA of French patisserie while embracing a true New York je ne sais quoi. Items on his menu such as the ParisNew York, which has the texture of a Paris-Brest and the taste of a Snickers bar, is a great example of a hybrid from his imagination.

I had no doubt that he would excel and become the sensation that he is today, although perhaps not even I could have anticipated the media frenzy that ensued over the Cronut pastry! As long as I can have a seat on his cozy patio to enjoy his latest creation with an espresso, Ill be happy. I hope that as you read this book, you will be inspired to create not just the recipes within, but also to think creatively in your own day-to-day baking adventures, just as Dominique would have you do.

DANIEL BOULUD,
CHEF-OWNER, RESTAURANT DANIEL, NEW YORK CITY

I was thirty-four years old when I opened my own bakery, but by then I had already been working in a kitchen for more than half my life. I first walked into a professional kitchen at the age of sixteen, and I dont think I can imagine a day when I would ever leave. I was taught to cook the old-fashioned way. Within the ranks of the French kitchen brigade, your job was simple:

1. Look closely at what your chef is doing.

2. Copy it as exactly as you can.

3. Repeat hundreds of times.

It felt like tracing the letters of someone elses handwriting, until you no longer remembered your own. And while this method trains highly proficient cooks, it doesnt nurture innovators.

Somethings wrong with the system. Cooks should be taught not only how to replicate, but also how to innovate . Learning how to perform a set task is certainly easier than finding a whole new way to interpret it. Inspiration cant be measured on a scale. Passion cant be chopped up on a cutting board or added to a recipelike seasoningat will. But all these factors must be present to produce something truly groundbreaking.

People often ask me if I keep my recipes under lock and key. On the contrary, they are printed out and kept in a blue folder in the kitchen for all to access. Recipes are just pieces of paper. No ratio of ingredients or list of instructions could ever be the key to success. The real secrets are hidden in the stories behind each creation. And thats what I will share with you in this book.

This is the way I teach the young pastry chefs who come through my kitchen how to not just cook, but how to create.

I have divided this book into two sections. In the first, I reveal what Ive learned as I crafted some of my favorite pastries. These lessons can be applied to all areas of life. A bite-size cake can teach you about the preciousness of time. A tart can show you how to dream. A scoop of ice cream can renew your appreciation of simplicity. The second half of the book holds the recipes to some of my most sought-after creations. This is where you have a chance to get your hands dirty, so you can follow my footsteps in your kitchen. And my hope is that someday you will go on to explore new ground of your own.

Happy baking, eating, andmost of allcreating!