Rick Steves - Rick Steves Pocket Italy’s Cinque Terre

Rick Steves

Tucked between Genoa and Pisa, in a mountainous and seductive corner of the Italian Riviera, lies the Cinque Terre (CHINK-weh TAY-reh)five villages carving a good life out of difficult terrain. With a traffic-free charma happy result of natural isolationthe Cinque Terre offers a rugged alternative to the glitzy Riviera resorts nearby.

Each village fills a ravine with a lazy hive of human activity. Calloused locals and sunburned travelers enjoy the areas unique mix of Italian culture and nature. There isnt a Fiat or museum in sightjust sun, sea, sand (well, pebbles), wine, and pure, unadulterated Italy. Choose a home base according to just how cut off youd like to be from the outer world: resorty Monterosso, cover-girl Vernazza, hilltop Corniglia, photogenic Manarola, and amiable Riomaggiore.

The Cinque Terre

Monterosso al Mare Resorty, flat, and spread out along the coast, with a charming old town, a modern new town, and the Cinque Terres best beaches, swimming, and nightlife. See .

Vernazza The regions gemthe most touristy and dramaticcrowned with a ruined castle above and a lively harborfront cradling a natural harbor below. See .

Corniglia Quiet hilltop village known for its cooler temperatures (its the only one of the five villages set above the water), fewer tourists, and a tradition of fine wines. See .

Manarola Mellow, hiking-focused waterfront village wrapped in vineyards and dotted with a picturesque mix of shops and cliff-climbing houses. See .

Riomaggiore The most workaday of the five villages, with nightlife, too. See .

Near the Cinque Terre

Levanto Town popular with surfers for its long beach; has speedy train connections to the Cinque Terre, and is a short walk from Bonassola, a sleepy, scenic beach village. See .

Sestri Levante Charming town on a peninsula flanked by two crescent beaches. See .

Santa Margherita Ligure Easygoing old-school resort town with an enjoyable urban bustle, a handful of sights, and close proximity to Portofino. See .

Portofino Yacht-harbor resort with grand scenery and easy connections (by boat, bus, or foot) from Santa Margherita Ligure. See .

Porto Venere Enchanting seafront village perfect for a scenic side-trip by boat from the Cinque Terre or by bus from La Spezia. See .

La Spezia Beachless transportation hub, with trains to the Cinque Terre and a bus to Porto Venere. See .

The Cinque Terre is my kind of perfect, but these nearby resort towns are tempting: Levanto, Sestri Levante, Santa Margherita Ligure, and Portofino to the north, and Porto Venere to the south, anchored by a major transit hub, La Spezia.

The ideal stay in the Cinque Terre is two or three full days; my recommended minimum stay is two nights and an uninterrupted day. Be warned: The Cinque Terre has a strange way of messing up your momentum. Staying for too short a time would be a mistake youd likely regret.

The villages are connected by trains, boats, and trails. Theres no checklist of sights or experiencesjust a hike, the towns themselves, and your fondest vacation desires. Study this book in advance to piece together your best visit, mixing hiking, swimming, trains, and boat rides.

Abbreviations and Times

Tourist information offices are abbreviated as TI, and bathrooms are WCs.

Like Europe, this book uses the 24-hour clock. Its the same through 12:00 noon, then keeps going: 13:00, 14:00, and so on. For anything over 12, subtract 12 and add P.M. (14:00 is 2:00 P.M.).

When giving opening times, I include both peak season and off-season hours if they differ. So, if a sight is listed as May-Oct daily 9:00-16:00, it should be open from 9 A.M. until 4 P.M. from the first day of May until the last day of October (but expect exceptions).

For transit or tour departures, I first list the frequency, then the duration. So a train connection listed as 2/hour, 1.5 hours departs twice each hour, and the journey lasts an hour and a half.

Sights and Experiences

These are rated:

Accommodations

These are classified based on the average price of a standard double room with breakfast in high season:

Unless otherwise noted, credit cards are accepted, hotel staff speak basic English, and Wi-Fi is free. For the best deal, book directly with the hotel. Ask for a discount if paying in cash or if the listing includes RS%.

Restaurants

These are classified based on the average cost of a typical main course (pasta or secondisecond course):

Drinks, desserts, and splurge items (steak and seafood) can raise the price considerably. In Italy, pizza by the slice and other takeout food is $; a basic trattoria or sit-down pizzeria is $ $; a casual but more upscale restaurant is $$$; and a swanky splurge is $$$$.

You could spend one day hiking from town to town (taking a boat or train part of the way, or as the return trip). Spend a second day visiting any towns youve yet to see, comparing main streets, beaches, and focaccia.