Steves R. - Florence

Rick Steves & Gene Openshaw

Florence is Europes cultural capital. As the home of the Renaissance and birthplace of the modern world, Florence practiced the art of civilized living back when the rest of Europe was rural and crude.

Florence is geographically small, with more artistic masterpieces per square mile than anyplace else. In a single day, you can look Michelangelos David in the eyes, fall under the seductive sway of Botticellis Birth of Venus, and climb the modern worlds first dome, which still dominates the skyline.

Todays Florence bustles with a modern vibe coursing through its narrow Renaissance lanes. Youll encounter children licking gelato, students riding Vespas, supermodels wearing Gucci fashions, and artisans sipping Chiantimany of the very things you came to Italy to see.

With this book, Ive selected only the best of Florenceadmittedly, a tough call. The core of the book is five self-guided tours that zero in on Florences greatest sights and neighborhoods.

My Renaissance Walk leads you through the historic corea great introduction to the towns layout, history, and major sights. The Accademia/David Tour stars Michelangelos 17-foot-tall colossus... nuff said? The Uffizi Gallery Tour presents the worlds greatest collection of Italian painting. And at the Bargello and Duomo museums, youll see some of the worlds best sculpture.

The rest of the book is a travelers tool kit. Youll find plenty more about Florences attractions, from shopping to nightlife to less touristy sights. And there are helpful hints on saving money, avoiding crowds, getting around town, enjoying a great meal, and more.

The best of Florence (population 380,000) lies on the north bank of the Arno River. The main historical sights cluster around the red-brick dome of the cathedral (Duomo). Everything is within a 20-minute walk of the cathedral, train station, or Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge). Much of this historic core is now delightfully traffic-free. For easy orientation, think of Florence divided into sections:

The Duomo to the Arno: The historic spine stretches from the cathedral to the Palazzo Vecchio (with its tall medieval spire) to the Uffizi Gallery to the Ponte Vecchio. Its an easy 10-minute walk along the pedestrian main drag, Via dei Calzaiuoli. Here youll find major sights, touristy restaurants, and big crowds. My Renaissance Walk is a great introduction to this area.

Sights are rated:

Tourist information offices are abbreviated as TI, and bathrooms are WCs.

Like Europe, this book uses the -hour clock. Its the same through 12:00 noon, then keep going: 13:00 (1:00 p.m.), 14:00 (2:00 p.m.), and so on.

For opening times, if a sight is listed as May-Oct daily 9:00-16:00, it should be open from 9 a.m. until 4 p.m. from the first day of May until the last day of October (but expect exceptions).

For updates to this book, visit www.ricksteves.com/update . For a valuable list of reports and experiencesgood and badfrom fellow travelers, check www.ricksteves.com/feedback .

North of the Duomo: Tourist activities and restaurants revolve around two main centers: the Basilica of San Lorenzo (museums and nearby markets), and the Accademia (and nearby San Marco Museum).

East of the Duomo: The landmark is the Church of Santa Crocea major sight and a people-gathering spot. Otherwise, this is a less-touristed area, sprinkled with minor sights, and a few hotels and restaurants.

West of the Duomo: The train station (and bus station)a 10- to 15-minute walk from the Duomoform the western border of the historic core. The area is not so picturesque and there are few sights (besides the church of Santa Maria Novella), but its convenient for hotels and restaurants.

South of the Arno River (Oltrarno): Less touristed and more local, its a place of artisan workshops and car traffic. Tourists enjoy the Pitti Palace (and Boboli Gardens) and Brancacci Chapel, as well as local-filled restaurants.

Accademia Michelangelos David and powerful (unfinished) Prisoners. Reserve ahead or get a Firenze Card. Hours: Tue-Sun 8:15-18:50, closed Mon. See .

Duomo Museum Underrated cathedral museum with sculptures. Hours: Daily 9:00-19:00. See .

Bargello Underappreciated sculpture museum (Michelangelo, Donatello, Medici treasures). Hours: Tue-Sat 8:15-17:00, until 13:50 if there are no special exhibits; also open second and fourth Mon and first, third, and fifth Sun of each month. See .

Duomo Gothic cathedral with colorful facade and the first dome built since ancient Roman times. Hours: Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00; Thu until 16:00 May and Oct, until 16:30 Nov-April; Sat 10:00-16:45, Sun 13:30-16:45. See .

Uffizi Gallery Greatest collection of Italian paintings anywhere. Reserve well in advance or get a Firenze Card. Hours: Tue-Sun 8:15-18:35, closed Mon. See .

Museum of San Marco Best collection anywhere of artwork by the early Renaissance master Fra Angelico. Hours: Tue-Fri 8:15-13:50, Sat 8:15-16:50; also open 8:15-13:50 on first, third, and fifth Mon and 8:15-16:50 on second and fourth Sun of each month. See .

Medici Chapels Tombs of Florences great ruling family, designed and carved by Michelangelo. Hours: April-Oct Tue-Sat 8:15-16:50, Nov-March 8:15-13:50; also open second and fourth Mon and first, third, and fifth Sun of each month. See .

Palazzo Vecchio Fortified palace, once the home of the Medici family, wallpapered with history. Hours: Museum open April-Sept Fri-Wed 9:00-24:00, Thu 9:00-14:00; Oct-March Fri-Wed 9:00-19:00, Thu 9:00-14:00; tower keeps similar but shorter hours. See .