Alison Freer - The Accessory Handbook: A Costume Designer’s Secrets for Buying, Wearing, and Caring for Accessories

Olivia Malone

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Alison Freer is a costume designer from Texas living and working in Hollywood. She got her start in fashion working at the mall, selling every type of accessory there is, from costume jewelry to shoes to designer handbags. She is a contributing writer on accessories, style, and how to shop the internet for New York Magazine , and the author of the New York Times best-seller How To Get Dressed . You can follow her on Instagram @AlisonFreer, on Twitter @AlisonVFreer, and on Facebook @AlisonFreerAuthor.

CHAPTER 1

JEWELRY

The Backbone of Accessorizing

The idea of jewelry is actually a bit silly when you think about it. Why did humans ever chose to adorn themselves with gems, chains, crystals, and beads; invest them with meaning; and then have to navigate the world with all this stuff hanging off their bodies? The obvious answer is that jewelry has long been used to signal things like wealth, clan affiliation, family, religion, and marital or social status, but the main reason to wear it these days is to look cuteand get compliments. It also works to allow the wearer to express personality and individuality, but the sheer amount of jewelry out there can be overwhelming to sift through, so its best to start your journey in your very own closet.

EVALUATE WHAT YOU ALREADY OWN

Assembling a jewelry wardrobe that works for you begins with taking a good, hard look at what you already own. Before you buy one more piece of jewelry, figure out which pieces you already own and wearand ask yourself what it is you like about those particular pieces. Are they large, shiny, sparkly, and dazzling? Or are the pieces you wear most often smaller in size? Are they made of wood or ceramic? Or do you gravitate toward sparkles like a magpie?

If certain pieces from your existing jewelry collection consistently draw compliments from others, chances are those pieces have something about them that really works for you, whether its complementing your facial shape, expressing your personality, or just bringing joy and uniqueness to your overall look. Take the time to explore why you think those things are working for you and learn to trust your instincts. Once you train your eye a bit, youll start to spot jewelry-shaped spaces in your outfits: a boatnecked blouse will call out for a dangling pendant necklace; a flared sleeve will look unfinished until you add a chunky cuff bracelet; and a turtleneck will seem like a boring, endless expanse of fabric unless you top it with a pair of hoop earrings or some long chains to break up the look.

WHATS YOUR JEWELRY STYLE?

A common mistake people make is buying jewelry without considering how it fits in with the rest of their collection. Having a basic idea of your general style to guide you through the minefield of available jewelry options is a good way to never wind up with something you wont actually wear. You dont have to pick one signature jewelry style and stick with it, but its worth identifying your basic style to inform future purchases. Below are a few common jewelry styles to get you thinking, but in time, youll start to find and hone your own, highly personal jewelry aestheticand then always have it at the ready to decide if a piece is right for you.

THE CLASSIC

Think of Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy Onassis timeless look as she entertained dignitaries at the White House and walked the streets of New York Cityand youll have nailed classic jewelry style. Look for:

Elegant pearls

Understated diamond stud earrings

A simple leather-strapped watch

A bracelet with charms youve been collecting for years

THE ONE-OF-A-KIND

Legendary artist Frida Kahlo exemplified this style with her love for intricately handmade pieces from various regions of Mexico, a look she adopted after her 1929 marriage to Diego Rivera: a locket with river pearls from Oaxaca, a gold choker from Yucatn, and painstakingly wire-worked silver earrings from Sultepec and Toluca. Look for:

Handmade necklaces strung with clay beads

Woven string bracelets

Wire-worked earrings

THE MAGPIE

If your signature jewelry style is the magpie, youll know it. Think Rosalind Russell dripping with multiple statement pieces in Auntie Mame , and youre on the right track. Look for:

Sparkling faux-gemstone bracelets

Necklaces with quirky pendants as big as your head

Fistfuls of rings that ooze character and charm

THE HEIRLOOM

The person who wears heirloom jewelry lives by the adage Timelessnot trendy. Look for:

Locket necklaces

Monogrammed signet rings

Pieces that have been handed down for generations

THE MODERN ART TEACHER

Ms. Frizzle from the classic animated show The Magic School Bus perfectly embodies the essence of this joyful, eclectic style. Look for:

Geometric pieces

Square bangle bracelets

Abstractly shaped drop earrings

THE GLOBE-TROTTER

If anyone has ever taken a good look at your witchy, bohemian-tinged jewelry and made a Stevie Nicks reference, this is likely your signature jewelry style. Look for:

Turquoise rings

Crystal-studded bracelets

Strands of multicolored agate beads

Pieces with natural elements like wood or cork

THE MINIMALIST

Simple, minimalist jewelry doesnt have to mean boringso if delicate pieces are your jam, embrace them. You can still be crazy stylish without having your jewelry scream at the top of its lungs. Look for:

Delicate, weightless chain necklaces with a dainty pendant or charm

Barely there silver or gold rings that add a tiny glint to the hands

Thin hoop earrings or simple studs