Bobbi Bensman - Bouldering With Bobbi Bensman (Climbing Specialist Series)
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Bouldering With Bobbi Bensman (Climbing Specialist Series)
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Basic and advanced grips and moves including dynos, manteling, bumping, backstepping, and the figure-four reach. With conditioning and training techniques and an insiders look at how to compete and win.
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To my grandfather, Jerome Moss. May he always know how dear he is to my heart. May he rest in peace.
Copyright 1999 by Stackpole Books
Published by STACKPOLE BOOKS 5067 Ritter Road Mechanicsburg, PA 17055 www.stackpolebooks.com
All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce this book or portions thereof in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. All inquiries should be addressed to Stackpole Books, 5067 Ritter Road, Mechanicsburg, PA 17055.
Printed in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 First edition
Photographs by Jim Surette
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Bensman, Bobbi. Bouldering with Bobbi Bensman / Bobbi Bensman. 1st ed. p. cm. (Climbing specialists) ISBN 0-8117-2677-0 1. Rock climbing. 2. Bensman, Bobbi. I. Title. II. Series. GV200.2.B47 1999 796.52'23DC21 97-25955 CIP
Page v
Contents
1. My Story
1
2. Moving on the Rock
9
3. More Moves
22
4. Preparing to Climb
35
5. Competing
59
6. Climbing Safely
64
7. Ethics
74
Glossary
81
Page vii
Acknowledgments
A special thanks to my mother and father for all their love and support. And to my brother, Todd, a professional journalistthanks for the encouragement to write this book.
And to Dale Bard, Mari Gingery, and Jimmy Surette for showing me the light.
And to Lynn Hill for the first female ascent of Midnight Lightning, a famous boulder problem in Camp Four, Yosemite National Park. It sat there unclimbed by a woman for twenty-one years!
And to all of my numerous bouldering partners who caught me in mid-air so many times.
And to the gods and goddesses above, please, please reopen Hueco Tanks State Park, El Paso, Texas!
Page ix
An Important Note to Readers
This book contains much useful information about the sport of bouldering. Before engaging in this potentially hazardous sport, however, you must do more than read a book.
This sport requires skill, concentration, physical strength and endurance, proper equipment, knowledge of fundamental principles and techniques, and unwavering commitment to your safety and that of your companions.
The publisher and author obviously cannot be responsible for your safety. Because bouldering entails the risk of serious and even fatal injury, we emphasize that you should not begin climbing except under expert supervision. No book can substitute for proper training and experience under the guidance of a qualified teacher.
Page 1
1 My Story
I was born and raised in the cosmopolitan yet very Texan city of Houstonwhere there wasn't a mountain in sight! My younger brother, Todd, and I grew up in a traditional middle-class family and had what you would call a normal upbringing. My father sold insurance and mutual funds while my mother stayed home until we kids were in high school; she then began a successful career in real estate.
Both my parents came from academic upbringings, so I knew as a kindergartner that I would go to some major university somewhere, someday. My parents really encouraged Todd and me in school, but only Todd was pushed into the world of athletics. He was nudged to play Little League baseball and football; I was urged to try cheerleading, which gave me my first taste of real competition. I'll never forget how stressful it was to work so hard on a cheerleading routine, perform it in front of a board, and go against a hundred other girls for only five places on the squad. I guess this was also my first experience with focused training, an experience that has served me well in my climbing career. I made the squad and will always remember the feeling of success and the rush of confidence I got. Now, of course, I think, "all that just to cheer for the boys?" How lame.
I did well in junior high school, but had a bout with drug addiction and was put into a drug rehabilitation program called Palmers Drug Abuse Program, where I struggled to regain my sobriety in a setting with other kids my age. It was a twelve-step program that really helped those who wanted to end their relationship with drugs. My successful battle against addiction is one of the biggest victories of my life.
Page 2
While I was still in junior high school my parents decided to move from Texas to Phoenix to be closer to the rest of the family. (My mother's father was the head casino manager for the MGM Grand in Las Vegas, a five-hour drive from Phoenix.) I don't think my parents realized how hard a move like this can be for an adolescent. It sure was tough on me. I arrived at my new school in the middle of the semester and found the other students to be cliquish and not too interested in welcoming me. I don't believe I was ever comfortable there.
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