Atkinson Brett - Rarotonga, Samoa & Tonga

Through the conduit of snorkelling, diving, sailing, swimming, hiking, drinking, feasting and talking about nothing in particular with loquacious locals, visitors to these islands quickly change down a gear or two and slip into island time. Indeed, time here is a flexible commodity, and days roll in and out on the tide. One day youre exploring vanilla-bean plantations, snorkelling with hypercoloured tropical fish, swimming in sunken caves and dancing at a bar, and the next a plane is waiting to jet you back home. The trick is to go with the flow don't stress too much if things don't happen precisely when you expect them to.

Dinner is Served

These South Pacific islands don't have a great rep for fine food and wine. But sidestep the Westernised resort restaurants and be adventurous: you'll find hearty local stews cooked with coconut milk, fabulous fresh seafood (how's that lobster?) and even the odd peppy Chinese noodle soup. And who needs shiraz when the weather is this humid? Sip a cold local lager instead it's the perfect thirst quencher as the sun sets on another day in the promised land.

Samoa | ZSTOCKPHOTOS/GETTY IMAGES

By Charles Rawlings-Way, Writer

Sure, youve got the palm trees, the seafood, the hypercoloured reefs, the sweet scent of hibiscus on the evening breeze But the best thing about Rarotonga, Samoa and Tonga is the pace of life here or rather, the lack of pace. I spend most of my time careening around Australias big cities, drinking too much coffee and talking a lot. Every slowed-down trip I make to these islands is an antidote to the mayhem, extending my allocated time on this lonely planet by unknown years.

Every surfer worth their wax knows about the big waves in Tahiti, where the Billabong Pro comp happens every year. But intrepid wave hounds are gradually exploring Rarotonga, and Tonga, and finding brilliant uncrowded scenes in warm, crystal-clear tropical waters. Cyclone season (November to April) brings gnarly waves from the north, while during winter (May to August) low-pressure systems in the Southern Ocean and Tasman Sea bring big swells to exposed southern coastlines. BYO board is the norm.